I converted to 12V and pertronix with the recommendded, on this site, 12 volt napa coil that does not require a resistor. I converted about 2 years ago. Tractor was running amazingly well and then missed 1 or 2 beats and quit. It is getting gas and has current at the coil. not sure what or how to check next??. I am inclined to convert back to points,condenser. did not keep old parts. I also have a 48 8N converted to 12v and pertronix with correct 12v coil. It ran for about a year and quit. I replaced the pertronix and it ran for about another year. Was a good running tractor, now it is just sitting out in the field. Recently bought a 2017 John Deere 3038e with loader. I do not like it as well as the Fords. However it has been reliable. For the Fords, 640 and 8N, I have repeatedly bought parts that did not work or were poorly made,i.e. , A new fuel shutoff that will not stop gas flow, points and condensers, complete distributor 8N. I do need to get these tractors running again. Am I all alone in having this many problems with new parts for these tractors?
- Thread starter MI-Bill
- Start date
I would start with the regular basics. Got spark at the plugs?
Fuel flow through the carb and out of the drain plug at the bottom?
You can use the same voltage measurements at the coil
that you would use with points to see if the EI is working.
Basically "points open, points closed" type of readings.
If the distributor side of the coil is always battery voltage
I would look for an open/broken wire.
If it is always zero, I would look for a grounded wire.
If the wiring is all good, then you may want to try the points.
Fuel flow through the carb and out of the drain plug at the bottom?
You can use the same voltage measurements at the coil
that you would use with points to see if the EI is working.
Basically "points open, points closed" type of readings.
If the distributor side of the coil is always battery voltage
I would look for an open/broken wire.
If it is always zero, I would look for a grounded wire.
If the wiring is all good, then you may want to try the points.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
You are not alone in your lament of the consistently lousy quality of aftermarket parts.
It's certainly possible the Pertronix unit failed, but it could be something simple. Check to make sure you have 12 volts on the positive side of the coil. I'm not sure how one would test the Pertronix unit itself, but if you disconnect the negative coil lead and then jumper from the negative coil terminal to ground, you should get fire from the coil wire when you break the connection to ground. That will at least eliminate the coil as the source of your trouble.
It's certainly possible the Pertronix unit failed, but it could be something simple. Check to make sure you have 12 volts on the positive side of the coil. I'm not sure how one would test the Pertronix unit itself, but if you disconnect the negative coil lead and then jumper from the negative coil terminal to ground, you should get fire from the coil wire when you break the connection to ground. That will at least eliminate the coil as the source of your trouble.
riveroadrat
Well-known Member
If its an 801 fuel shutoff valve it depends on where you buy it. I bought an aftermarket that leaked,it had a sloppy fitting turnscrew. I bought another one off fleabay, item number 142692421204. It was tight and no leaks. I never use that valve once installed, I put another ball valve downline before the fuel filter or carb.
riveroadrat
Well-known Member
The instructions say not to use solid wire plug wires.
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