Can I use a lawnmower solenoid on an 850?

Solenoid is sticking... when I push the start button, occasionally it will keep trying to start even if button is released and off/on switch is moved to off. I have to hit it with a screwdriver and then it stops trying to start.

Local tractor shops dont have it. I have a bunch of old lawnmowers laying around... just curious if I could use one of those 4 post lawnmower solenoids to replace the one on the tractor, or not.

It's an 850, and it is a 12 volt.

If you guys think a lawnmower solenoid wont cut it, I will check with napa and see if they have one... otherwise I will order it.

From searching threads, I think this will work on my 850. Thanks for any input.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHST542
 
Tough to answer question about lawn mower starter relay as it is unknown how the relay is wired internally. Easy enough to determine if you're good with a multimeter.

mvphoto25024.jpg


The NAPA part number you reference agrees with my notes for a 1958-1964 12 volt system.

Also, a weak battery will cause relay to stick closed. To rule this out; check battery voltage at starter when cranking - Anything above 10 volts is acceptable.
 
Also, a weak battery will cause relay to stick closed. To rule this out; check battery voltage at starter when cranking - Anything above 10 volts is acceptable.

Hey that's all great info dollar bill... thanks!

Hmmm... you might be on to something with the weak battery thing. Definitely having battery issues... when this happened, the battery was pretty much dead, and I was trying to get it to crank before it went totally flat. Sounds like that might be what caused the solenoid to stick. Makes sense, now that you said it.

I'll get the battery squared away before I mess with the solenoid, in case that's all it was. Might have saved me $25 there... thanks for that tip!

Battery has had issues recently... I thought the solenoid was sticking and running it down, but sounds like it was the opposite... the battery was dying and causing solenoid to stick.

I took battery off and charged it overnight. I filled the cylinders with distilled. Disconnected the charger today and it was at 12.7. Gonna let it sit overnight and see if it holds 12.7.

Might be time for a new one anyway. It's almost 10 years old, and is a 475 CCA I think.
 
Agree except added comment for the reason for the sticking contacts. On older solenoids, meaning usage old, every time the contacts break there is
an electrical arc across the contacts. Over time this causes pitting and in it's extreme the surface area of the contact area is too small to support the
heat of the current flowing through the contact so they "weld", just like you take a stick welder and weld metal together.

I have disassembled numerous over the years (drill out the 4 rivets on phenolic cased ones or grind off the rivets on metal cased ones), and once open
remove the disc and flip it over to the smooth side. Burnish (smooth off) the ⅜" input and output stud mating surfaces and with bolts and nuts, put it
back together for another 20 years of service.
 

I also have done this, to many times to count, even on gas golf carts, where it's not a moment contact solenoid. You should try it, before handing money away to someone.

Pat
 
I have a lawnmower solenoid on a tractor i just bought. Its powered on with a hot wire. A new ones not too costly. You actually need one that needs to be grounded to start so you can use the safety start button. It will keep it from running over you if you try to start it while you are standing beside it.
 
Take a look at your solenoid. If it's the original style, it will only
have three posts. Two large ones for cables and one little one that
the starter button hooks to. The key switch doesn't matter.
Pressing the button, or stuck contacts, will cause the engine to roll
with or without the key on but it won't start without the key on.
The 8x1 tractors were wired differently and had a different solenoid.
As Bill said, for '58-64. After the 8x0 series.
 

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