Ford 2000 carb linkage adjustment and @#!$ flare fittings.l

So, I finally had time to work on my tractor and I just replaced the carb with a brand new zenith and put in a new fuel pump. So apparently the linkage for the carb needs to he adjusted since the governor runs into is housing at just off idle. So what is the procedure for adjusting the carb linkage (I need to make mine alot longer). Also, those darn flared fittings on the fuel pump- my new fuel pump came with new fitting and I bent new fuel lines out of 5/16 brake line. So both halfs of the fitting are new, I tightened them very tight and they leak... both sides leak the inlet and out. What's the trick to these darn things? I have never had a brake line leak!
 
Don?t have answers (yet) but asking some baseline questions

Did you use the pre-flared ends of the brake lines or did you
flare them yourself? And if you did the flares, did you double-
flare them?

What year is your 2000? (per the numbers stamped on the
block & trans)?
 
The engine is actually from a 71 3000... a month or two ago in posted the numbers on here! The fuel lines were pre flared 5/16 fuel line, single flare. As far as the linkage adjustment goes, I know there are 2 zenith carbs for the 3 cylinder 2000 tractor. I measured my old throttle linkage before buying the new carb and bought the appropriate model. The zenith carb just rotates farther that the original carb, therefore it need the linkage adjusted outward. I was curious about the linkage adjustment procedure.
 
look in the fittings on the carb and be sure they have seats for the flare. Then look at the flare itself, possibly a seam flashing or crack.
 
Brake line and most (not all) Ford fuel line is inverted flair.
Also called double flair. I'm pretty sure the original lines on my
3000s are double flair. I can go check tomorrow if needed.

I can't help with the linkage adjustments. I don't have a Zenith
on either of mine. I just rebuilt the Holley's and used the originals.
 
If anyone has the procedure for adjusting the governor to carb linkage please let me know. I have the 1965-75 ford service manual and it mentions adjusting the linkage but it fails to say how. I can just play around with the linkage, but I would like to get it right.
 
Don't have my manual handy right now but the first thing is to adjust the rod to a specific length. There are two styles of bell crank used and a different length for each one. It's a real b***ch getting the clip engaged at the front end of the rod at the gov lever. That said, I have a hard time getting the throttle response the way I like. With the rod set to the specified length the spring hook is loose on the bell crank. It leaves end play which causes a lot of movement at the throttle lever before it comes off idle. And at full throttle it drifts back some at high loads.
 
Been awhile since I replaced the pump on our 3000 (?65) but I
think I had the same problem with replacement brake lines,
and ended up stubbing off the old ones at the pump and fitting
new pieces on from that point. I tried one of the hand crank
double flare tools but could never get a good seal. A
Mastercool flare tool is really the way to go for double flares.
 
]What is the I/T manual? I just have the 65-75 ford tractor manual. My manual seems to skip over it. I read about the govenor in the engine systems chapter then for adjustments it refers to the fuel systems chapter. There is a carb & linkage adjustment section but it never mentions how to actually adjust anything but the carburetor. Here's a pic so yall dont think I cant read!
25038.jpg
 
I&T is an after market company that makes service manuals for a number of different tractor brands, similar to what Chiltons does for cars.

Google I&T FO-31 to find the I&T Service manual for the 1965-1975 2000/3000/4000 series tractors. Ford changed the design on the throttle/governor linkage partway through the production run and the adjustment procedure is slightly different between the two.
 
Thanks. Ordered one from Amazon. If anyone has a quick & dirty adjustment please let me know and I will do it proper once my manual arrives!
 
There's a guy on fleabay that sells flared copper washers for A/C fittings. They work great on flared fittings. He sells a kit with different sizes but will make a kit of one size if you ask. I had a p/s leak that wouldnt stop, they fixed it.
 
Thanks, I will have to check it out. On the positive side of things, I did have my tractor running, although I couldn't get very far above idle because of the governor arm hitting its housing. It ran very, very well. I didn't run it very long due to a fuel leak.
 
Its not hard to crossthread a line into a carb as the soft metal will let you make your own set of threads. They are very hard to seal when crossthreaded because it throws all the alignment off. The copper might seal it though. Heres the fleabay item number if anyone needs them 312259779515. This set has different sizes but he will make you a set of a specific size. the smallest size works well in a carb or power steering line. They also protect the seat for the lines.
 

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