How hard is it to remove the steering arm off

How hard is it to remove the steering arms off the steering box?

With the arms removed, how hard is it to remove the seals?

they leak and will not hold the oil
 
You don't mention a model, but in general, the sector arms come off in a range of very easy, to needing to be pulled with a Pittman arm 2 jaw tool.

I've never had one give me too much grief.

Now.. Seals? Is this a simple mania box? If yes, I might pull it down for a full go thru. Is this a double or single sector box?

What oil are you using?

If its a pre 65, and just weeps oil a bit, a service bulletin recommended 0 grease instead. 00 is commonly available... Might solve the problem of a small weep, if everything else is good. Post back.
 
Some of them can be a real bear. Probably ones that have never been off and have sit outside in the weather. If it gives you too much grief, go ahead and grind a split in one side and use a chisel to break it. But a good used one first. I have a captive jaw puller that wont let go. The more you tighten the center bolt, the tighter the jaws grip it. It always does the job. Heat also helps to get them off.
 
The degree to which you'll struggle to get the arms off will be in direct proportion to how properly they were installed. I teach my students to clean the splines of any paint and dirt, install the arm and torque the nut to spec. Then, take the machine out and work it for a while (i.e. put a lot of force on the steering arms), and re-torque the nut. Repeat until the nut no longer moves. If it was torqued in this fashion, you'll likely curse the person who put it on, assuming you know who it is.

If it's a rear axle shaft, like on a NAA, I teach my students to take the tractor outside and jab the brakes multiple times in both forward and reverse. We once got over a full turn of the nut after the initial install, and it took about 4 or 5 times with the torque wrench to get the nut to stop moving. I pity the poor guy who gets to take than joint apart!
 
They aren't too bad.
I just use a two jaw puller and a little heat. I have oxy-acet here but as little heat as it takes a propane torch with mapp gas would do the job.
 
Good advice so far. Let me add a bit more. Use a good puller.
Do not use a hammer and chisel to try to get it off.
Otherwise, you'll never get it to seal properly.
Neither will the next owner. (me)
The PO beat this one to death. Even damaged the splines.

24972.jpg
 
When I got the tractor, the steering was stiff and put in 85W140. it helped by jacking the tractor up and working the steering wheel back a forth. couple of days later, the oil leaked out of the steering and on the running board. In the 860 I grew up with, the seals got tired and I added corn head grease. that did the trick but now there is a residual grease around the steering arms shafts.
 
Cornhead is good grease for these boxes. Also note that some errant previous owner may have used too much sector adjustment and made the steering stiff, without actually solving any of the problems the no had.
 
I use Lubriplate 105 motor rebuilding grease which is probably a 0 grade....never checked that...... I use it in rotary mowers too as it is grease and remains as grease but is low enough in viscosity to do some moving around the box (on it's own) providing lubrication where needed but resists squeezing out around worn seals. I did it to my 2000 so many years ago I don't remember and haven't addressed the problem since.....must have stopped the leaking. Same with old shredders when I had them.

No way would I go through the problems you are attempting to address until I have done the 105 test. Most auto parts stores have it in a white tube with a turquoise colored plastic cap.
 

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