Bolster questions, '66 3000

I bought this '66 Antwerp 3000 diesel a few months ago and I just bought a 730 loader to put on it. I hadn't noticed before, but the holes in the bolster where the front bracket would bolt up appear to have had bolts broken off in them and something welded to the bolster.








I ground it down to where I could see the bolts in the holes and figured with some good penetrating oil, some heat, and a good extractor the would come right out.






Well, so far, that plan isn't working out. I got the holes drilled all the way through the bolts and filled the cavity with penetrating oil. Put a propane torch to it and got to work with the extractor. It bit good but the broken bolt wouldn't budge. I ended up breaking the extractor off in the hole. I didn't have the proper size punch or a big enough hammer last night, but I believe I can drive the broken piece through the hole and try again with a bigger extractor or just drill them out completely and re-thread the holes.

I've not given up yet, but I'm thinking of my options. I've seen several posts by Ultradog MN about the two different bolsters. Can I go to the late model, "heavier" bolster? I figure it will bolt up, but will my early model pin and axle work or will they need to be changed, too?

Did you use left handed drill bits? Did you use an extractor or an Easy Out?

I used these.

Sometimes it works to arc-weld a heavy nut to the remains of the screw (through the threads).
While it's still hot (hopefully, the thread locking compound is melted), use a little gun oil or sewing machine oil, and apply lighter impact-wrench torque. Don't overdo it. Go counter clockwise, then just a couple taps clockwise to break it loose. Repeat patiently. If it looks like it is beginning to work, increase the torque and see if it won't come out. A steady breaker bar torque will likely just break the nut off again.

Well, I got the broken extractor driven on through the hole. Now, round 2.

No help on going to the later model bolster? Where, oh, where could Ultradog be?

I did read your post but had little to
offer (other than sell you my junk) so I
didn't reply.
I have changed bolsters a couple of times -
from light to heavy and heavy to light.
I went to a heavy because it is so much
easier to find the front "toe" bracket for
a one armed loader. Years later I got rid
of the one armed bandit and reconfigured
the front end of my 3000 to the shorty LCG
style. I could have just swapped the knees
but discovered by using the light bolster I
could use the cast iron pan from an
industial tractor. Having seen a few bashed
in steel pans, one of which mashed in the
screen on the oil pump and having lowered
the front with the LCG spindles I was glad
to have the extra protection of the cast
iron pan. It adds about 80 lbs of weight to
the front too which I like.
Howsomever, both times I switched I swapped
the center axle along with the bolster so I
can't say what configuration of center
bushings you'd need to make that swap.
Where are you located?
I had been saving a heavy bolster with
center axle in case I ever wanted to switch
back but doubt I ever will and would sell
it if you are interested. I also have a
complete front end from a 3400 that I would
sell pretty cheap. The 3400 front end would
be a VERY good, direct bolt-on upgrade for
your tractor if you are installing that
Heavy 730.
There are a couple of things to be aware of
if you do any swapping. Mainly, Ford did
change the location of where the yoke on
the radius rods pin to the front axle.
Early ones pinned to the center axle. Later
ones pinned to the knee so the yokes are
different lengths.
Last but not least, using propane to heat
heavy iron is not effective. You need oxy-
acetylene and a rosebud tip to get enough
heat to be effective.
My email is always open if you wish to
discuss this more. Send me your phone # and
a good time to call. I am glad to help and
enjoy yacking about these things.
Jerry

Hello Jerry and thanks for the reply. I looked at your profile but couldn't find an email address. Shoot me an email if you would, [email protected]. I'm just north of Nashville, TN.

Thanks,
Scott

You can't see my email because you use that
blankety blank modern view.
Look at my post in Classic. It's right
there.

No need to use Classic View. It's not in someone's profile page when you view it, although your own profile page is where you enable or disable it.

It's at the bottom of every post by the person you want to email, that's if they have email enabled. Look at the bottom of Ultradog's post and you'll see a button that says "email".

Well, look at that. It is right there. Thanks Sean.

Jerry, my radius arms are like the next to the last pic you posted. We have a later model 3000 at work that is like your last pic.

Hey Jerry. I sent you an email through the forum yesterday. Did you get it? I'd like to talk to you about that 3400 front axle.

Welding a nut to the broken bolt is very effective if done correctly.Use the next smaller size nut, and be very careful to not drift over to the base metal with the weld, tig works great.Apply a solid weld to the broken bolt and spray it with PB Blaster while still hot. when the nut has cooled just a bit hit the head of the nut with a big hammer to shock the threads of the bolt. Then first try to turn it CCW, then CW. No movement in either direction? Repeat the process starting with more weld to the nut on the broken bolt. Keep at it, it will come out