Maybe it is time.......

My 63 2000 S-O-S rolled what I suspect is a rod bearing this spring. She choked down while running a PTO log splitter and stalled out then made the gawdawfulest screech when I hit the starter to fire her back up. Brand new Odyssey battery would barely turn her over so I quit before I ventilated the block or snapped the crank and brought her home. Having not yet had the time to get her rolled into the shop has given me alot of time to think about what to do/not do. Since the S-O-S has been limping for years and the radiator finally rotted out and now the motor has to be gone into I am beginning to wonder if it all adds up to time to start parting her out. Her tin is almost perfect (minor dings no rust), tires are usable, rear rims have never had calcium in them, even the front bolster pivot is fairly tight. I have a line on some supposedly good SoS trans but now the motor is the wildcard. I miss my seat time and hydraulic lifting capabilities but is rebuilding this and adding a Jackson power steering setup worthwhile compared to (gasp!!!!) going with used but newer equipment? What is freshening up the motor going to set me back provided I did not nuke the crank? Or is there even a market for good tin off of a 55 year old tractor?

I suppose I will eventually drag her into the shop and make my wife a shop widow for an extended time. Now that I have told my tale of woe can anybody commiserate with my situation and how did it turn out? I like my oddball DOT yellow S-O-S but not sure I can afford it AND a divorce LOL.
 
Basically it's your tractor to do with as you choose.

Should you take the plunge, you likely already know there will be negligible financial return but it you are attached to it then it doesn't matter.
 
How attached to the SOS are you? And how
attached to that series are you?
Those would likely be the deciding factors
for me.
I'm not fond of the SOSs so that part would
be a no brainer for me. The series? Your
call.
Moneywise, putting most of a couple Grand
into an engine rebuild on a tractor with a
known high failure transmission is not
something I would do. And I wouldn't doubt
when you split it you'd find you need a
new/used input shaft and TLC.
I'd say if you like the 4 bangers find a
decent running but ugly X60/X61/4/2000 and
swap your nice tin, tires, steering, etc
over. I personally don't care about
originality or correctness. I do want my
tractors to look decent and run good.
If you just want a good old tractor for
what it was intended for - working - maybe
look at a newer model. Old Fords are cheap
now. The 3 cylinder Fords don't have the
iconic looks but are superior machines IMO.
A 2000 or 3000, 2600/3600 will lkely have
features
you really like and will be very familiar
to you operationaly, maintenance and repair
wise. And ultimately, your wife won't be a
garage widow so long.
 


I just rebuilt a Case 188 gas engine. The biggest pain in the butt to rebuild. Fought me all the way. I had the crank turned, all journals were bad $200.00, rods rebuilt (15.00 each), block honed (it's a sleeved block) & install cam bearings ($20.00). Then the cost of all the parts, plus thermostat, oil, antifreeze, new mechanical themp gauge, etc. It came to $780.00 to rebuild it. I took the head apart,cleaned inside & out real good, and replaced stem seals, and lapped the valves myself, because everything looked great. It now runs great!

I have my '63 Ford 172 diesel apart right now. I do not need to rebuild it, but I have to get a rare item, a new cam for it. I can not regrind mine, the key way is toast, so I am going to buy a used one, and most likely have it reground. But after looking at all the parts to rebuild it, if I were to, it would not cost any more then the Case engine did. Mine is sleeved so pistons are $100.0 for all 4, and sleeves are $25.00 each. Then you'd have a rebuilt engine, that would run like new.

I can not say anything about the SOS, as mine is also, but have not got into that yet. But if you get a replacement SOS, or if you part yours out, I would like to ask you about you engage handle, and cable. I need one.

Me, but that's me, I'd rebuild the engine, then replace, or rebuild the SOS myself. I know some will say, by the time you do, you could buy a different tractor, but, you don't really know how long it will last. There is a reason people get rid of theirs, and they don't always say really why. Ask me how I know. I've had my '63 4000, a year, and still have never run it. Why they got rid of it, was not the complete truth.

Here's what mine looks like right now. If I took the tires off, no one would know it's a tractor!

Pat




mvphoto24220.jpg
 

I know that you already know that it is your decision, but having been there, I will agree with the others that economically and efficiency wise you are better off to part her out. If a tractor restoration job is on your bucket list go to it.
 
Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I have been thinking for years that if something happened to the motor on this I would probably part it out due to the SOS issues and lack of power steering. I have a Leyland 270 diesel that needs a rebuild that has power steering and traction lock so my dilemna is now which one will serve my needs better. The Leyland is 70 HP and about twice as tall to get up into the seat on but I have a much more sentimental attachment to it since it is the tractor I grew up on. Plus my newly acquired Ford 906 7 foot bushhog would probably not be nice to the 2000 where the Leyland would play with it. But then there is the size and weight difference to consider when trailering, too. Decisions, decisions.
 
First thing I did was loosen the belt and check the waterpump and alternator to see if one of them had locked. When they spun free I knew it was internal. Always something.

Once I get space in the shop I am going to drop the pan and start loosening up rod caps in hopes of finding the offending bearing. If I am lucky it is not a main but my luck being what it is these days.................
 
(quoted from post at 17:00:25 09/26/18)
Is it a gas, or a diesel?

Pat

Gas 134. The rods have always sounded kinda loose and seeing as how it was a DOT mower it probably has alot of hours on it but it doesn't smoke under load. I did a compression check several years ago and it was a little on the low side on all cylinders but consistent on all four so I figured run it until it stops. 12V conversion with Pertronix and it ran smooth. No axle or PTO leaks, brakes need return springs (which I bought but haven't installed yet) and have a new radiator for it. Gas tank has been sealed due to a oozing spot weld on the bracket and fuel sender was blocked off at that time (rusted due to mouse nest in the indention on top of tank).

As you can probably tell I am somewhat conflicted on what to do. I think I will take a nap and sleep on it LOL.
 

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