Need help with Ford Hydraulics

I am trying to add a HV4902 Adapter
plate that says it's for a Ford 3000 to
add remote hydraulics. I plan on using
this for a front end loader in the near
future hopefully. All the holes on the
plate are accounted for I put the o
rings in place bolted everything up and
now my rear hydraulics do not work.
There is also a small leak from my
hydraulic pump when I run it for a while
like this. I removed the adapter and put
just the original plate back and the
problem was solved. My rear hydraulics
worked and the leak was gone. It seems
like something is being blocked
somewhere. Does anyone know what could
be happening?
a279512.jpg
 
WayneIA is correct and don't run your tractor till you loop the two fittings together. When I don't have my quicktach loader on I hook the two hoses together. One male one female. See photo.
a279526.jpg
 
I have a 3000 and bought a block from Ford which was used on an industrial tractor. I connected it to a Cross Open Center control. I don't have the outlet connections connected to an implement or jumpered.

In writing this it is occurring to me that the Cross is doing the bypassing for me (in-out ports) that I would otherwise have to have a jumper hose as you are referencing. Without the bypass, fluid can't go on to the 3 pt lift arms so for that installation pictured, without anything hooked up to the block, the pump is driving against the over pressure (pop-off) valve in the hyd system and everything is getting stressed and hot....yes/no?
 
I use Teflon. You just want to start the Teflon back of the end of the threads as to not get any Teflon in the hydraulic system.
 
Teflon is not recommended as it apparently has gotten stuck in valves causing them to leak whereby paste doesn't. Do not know/remember the origin of the caution note but I have observed the reason why......and I love that, not being told "not to do" something without having the reason stated so that I can make my own decisions about what I am to do. So I use paste.
 
I was taught by my brother-in-law, who is a master plumber ... "dope (what you call paste), then tape, then dope" That allows you to barely tighten NPT threads to a little more than finger tight and they will never leak. Also makes for easier disassembly later. Just make sure that you start the tape at least two threads from the end of the male fitting and no tape will be able to get into the system.
 
(quoted from post at 06:44:47 09/14/18) Teflon is not recommended as it apparently has gotten stuck in valves causing them to leak whereby paste doesn't. Do not know/remember the origin of the caution note but I have observed the reason why......and I love that, not being told "not to do" something without having the reason stated so that I can make my own decisions about what I am to do. So I use paste.

This is what we were told when i worked at a hydraulic testing/ research institute, but i was always skeptical. I don't think a few little shreds of teflon tape could cause much damage in the kinds of systems we are talking about. Now maybe if you horked a bunch of the stuff in there or had a modern fancy system with tiny pilot valves and electric solenoids, it could be a problem.

Use a thread sealant paste made specifically for hydraulic applications (not plumber stuff) and fully fill the first 2-3 threads of the male. Parker corp publishes a lot of really good free materials you can get from a parker store/distributor or free online that explain everything from o-ring selection to how to braze fittings... if you want to get it 'from the horse's mouth' i'd go right to them. There is also a torque spec specified as '# of turns past hand tight' that you will want to pay attention to, you can definitely over-torque NPT and cause problems.
 

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