I purchased my first tractor just recently to help clean up the homestead. While it has good bones, The PO's put their own unique touches to repairs. I'm somewhat mechanical inclined and not fearful in getting my hands dirty.
I brought it home and had to replace brakes, needing to stop is important. PO had put just a slightly smaller brake drum and tore up the rear dust shield.
Now she stops but the clutch was next. It would engage suddenly and the transition was immediate, from stop to go no matter how slowly I'd let off.

I split the tractor and found anti-freeze and what looks like the bottom end of a deep fryer with years of neglect.
The question I have, Rear Seal or transmission shaft seal? I didn't see any leakage so PO might have fixed it. I know someone has had it apart as it's missing a bolt on the clutch and half the bell housing bolts were mis-matched metric sizes.

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Chuck, I don't have a new one to compare, but I would say wear. I believe that the factory would run those grooves all the way out if they were machined. I don't think that you have anything to worry about unless you are planning many hours of heavy loader work every day.

Here is the carrier hub, wear marks or factory?

Found a couple of good post on replacing both seals and bearings. The one thing I can't find a good picture of is the Carrier Bearing Hub. It has grooves where the forks would press against it and it almost looks factory made. Not sure if this is excessive wear or the supposed to be there. Don't have a picture right now but can post one once I get home.

Chuck

don't forget there are two seals in associated with the input shafts - one on the transmission shaft and one on the PTO shaft - also an appropriate time to replace the clutch release bearing -

Thanks everyone for the replies. Parts are ordered and I know this is just the start of my journey.
Chuck

Holy multiple post, Batman.......

I apologize, not sure what went wrong and it wont let me edit.

in my experience the clutch gets "grabby" because its oil soaked. The oil usually comes out of the transmission input shaft seal. Rear main will sling oil everywhere but the clutch usually stays dry. Anti freeze is probably a leaky freeze plug.

When replacing the clutch make sure you have someone set it up who has the correct jig. The 2 stage clutch has to be set properly to work right. Its a royal PITA if its not set up right. I spent a week tinkering with mine before I found an old mechanic who still knew how to set one up. They are sweet when they work right.

in my experience the clutch gets "grabby" because its oil soaked. The oil usually comes out of the transmission input shaft seal. Rear main will sling oil everywhere but the clutch usually stays dry. Anti freeze is probably a leaky freeze plug.

When replacing the clutch make sure you have someone set it up who has the correct jig. The 2 stage clutch has to be set properly to work right. Its a royal PITA if its not set up right. I spent a week tinkering with mine before I found an old mechanic who still knew how to set one up. They are sweet when they work right.

in my experience the clutch gets "grabby" because its oil soaked. The oil usually comes out of the transmission input shaft seal. Rear main will sling oil everywhere but the clutch usually stays dry. Anti freeze is probably a leaky freeze plug.

When replacing the clutch make sure you have someone set it up who has the correct jig. The 2 stage clutch has to be set properly to work right. Its a royal PITA if its not set up right. I spent a week tinkering with mine before I found an old mechanic who still knew how to set one up. They are sweet when they work right.

That's not a washer, it's a circlip. Usually used on a shaft with an indent to hold other things in place.

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Off the end of the old style starter drive gear when one broke.

As I was cleaning, this washer was found in the bottom of the goop. Anyone have an ideal where it might belong?

If there was anti-freeze in there, then I doubt that it was the transmission seal leaking. My guess would be a freeze plug on the rear of the engine.