Ford 4110 Overheating or Guage issue

rkrischke

New User
Recently bought a new/used 4110.
3cyl diesel
Runs great but the gauge goes just to the red after about 40 min of running.
I replaced the thermostat. (no change)
Flush the radiator-it can handle full open garden hose thru the radiator.(no change)

Ran it today brush hogging in 85 degree heat for 90 min. I put a infrared temp gun on various parts of the engine block and never seem to read anything above 190 degrees. The hose temp coming out of the block is at 175.

Could it be the gauge/sensor that is malfunctioning?

Is the anyway to test gauge/sensor before i buy a $120 instrument cluster?

Can anyone tell me if these temp reading on the block are normal and an indicator that I an not overheating?

Thanks for your help.
 

I put a late model cluster and sender on my 4000 years ago, within 5 minutes the gauge is two hands from the red, that's where it stays.
If it gets into the red it's getting hot but next to the red is normal temp checked have a heat gun.

Make sure the radiator fins are good and clean, my 6610 was running hot and even though I had flushed through the fins it was still stopped up, after over 40 minutes with the power washer it now runs at proper temps
 
I agree it's likely the voltage
stabilizer.
If you went over it as described probably
the best fix would be a small piece of
duct tape - placed squarely over the temp
gauge. Check it on occasion with your ifr
gizmo.
 

The newer gauge clusters don't have a voltage stabilizer and use different temp and fuel senders, I had to change all of that when I changed mine over to the oil pump drive tach because it turns the tach the other direction.
 

Also make sure the cluster has a good ground on it.. if the wire is missing or corroded, the voltage stabilizer cannot work correctly. I keep old gauge clusters for parts and sometimes its simply the heat gauge bad, and putting a used one in fixes it, but not usually.

does the needle go all the way to cold when the tractor is not ran? I have seen the needle simply bent and it read high, till I bent it back to the proper cold position. I have seen bad sending units on the front of the head.

As others have said.. how does the gas gauge work.. if its not working well, or weird? Most gas gauges dont work due to a bad sending unit in the tank...

Your temps on the top hose leaving the engine indicate the cooling system is working fine and your problem is in the gauging system somewhere. You should see a 20+- degree drop between the top of the radiator and the bottom.. typical when running with the engine running fast enough to pull air through the radiator, and warmed up. This assumes good water flow and good air flow.
 
Those temps are not high so you are not overheating. Sending unit is either bad or the voltage stabilizer for the gauges, it you have one, is bad.
 

Yes the gas guage seems to work ok...bounces a bit..but otherwise ok. So it sounds like i should change the instrument cluster and temp sending unit.
 

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