Ford 3000 power steering conversion opinions

acaswell

Member
So I've got a ford 3000 diesel that runs well with one exception. It was originally manual steering and the previous owner put one of those conversions on it that has a
single hydraulic cylinder on the left side and a cross link between the front tires. I've put an Allied 350 loader on it and it interferes with this cylinder. To make
things worse, this cylinder is the only thing keeping the wheels aligned and I live in a very hilly area. The bracket already broke once and I fabricated a bigger
bracket, but I still don't trust it. I'm considering converting it to the power assist steering that came on some models of the 3000 and I wanted some opinions on if
it's a good idea or not. I haven't been able to find anywhere where someone has tried this. I know it's not the most cost effective, but I know all the quirks of this
tractor and hate to trade up for an unknown bag of issues. Because of the hills and the loader, going back to manual isn't really a good option imo. Thoughts?
 
Those aftermarket PS units are not intended for loaders.
They sell them here and it states so in the description. See the link below.
Finding an original setup isn't cheap either.
I have sold 3 of them in the last 6-8 years and got a Grand for them each time.
I went through them beforehand and replaced the seals in the column and put new tie rods on them though so I knew they were good.
They sold Quickly. Like in just a couple of days.
If you were to go that route I would look for a dead tractor that had it. Part it out and end up with the complete PS system pretty cheap. That's what I did when I put it on mine about 10 years ago.
Better yet, look for a 3400 as the front axle is much stouter. If you get the complete system the steering parts on a 3400 are a direct bolt on swap onto a 3000.
Aftermarket power steering.
 
Thanks ultradog. Do you know if I will need to replace the entire steering column, or can I adapt the control valve to to the one I've got?
 
Here's what you need to get to convert it:
Complete column, radius rods, tie rods, two cylinders, 6 hydraulic lines and the pump.
Also, keep in mind that there were 2 different axle/radius rod setups on those.
Old style the radius rods attached to the axle center. New style they hooked to the outer axle.
Not sure when the change was made - maybe about 73?
The column is the same on 2000, 3000, 2600, 3600 and utility/industrial derivatives from 65-83.
 
Just a reference point on $1k being cheap for a restored, complete, working system like UD mentioned that he sold, my 4600 needed a new gearbox (box that attaches steering wheel shaft to tractor mainframe). Found one at the F/NH dealer.............$2k just for the box.
 
The best solution would be to buy a running tractor and swap the power steering for your power steering set up along with any other better parts , then set for about what you paid . If you don't get crazy and do light paint job / tune up / fluid change you might make a few dollars . Or be like the rest of us and decide to keep the second tractor cuz it runs good and looks pretty even though we need the cash back .
 
What's the difference between the manual and power steering radius rods? And for reference, mine are apparently the older style because they attached the center piece.
 
Better off finding a industrial with a loader already on it, or just find the front axle, and support from a industrial. The front axle, and loader will be much stronger than what you have now.
 

Power steering radius rods have a mounting hole in them for attaching one end of the steering cylinders to, the other end of the cylinder attaches to the mounting hole in the power steering drag links.
Manual steering radius rods and drag links don't have the mounting holes to attach power steering cylinders to.
 
Found cylinders, drag links, radius arms, and a steering column at a local yard for a price I couldn't refuse. I'd like to re-use the aftermarket pump that came with the steering conversion kit, and I'm wondering about the pressure relief valve. I suspect that the aftermarket setup I had had the relief built into the cylinder, so I'm thinking I need to include a relief in my system. Does anyone know where the relief was in the OEM design? Thanks!
 

The relief should be built into the pump, that conversion kit uses a pump and steering cylinder/control valve similar to what was used on some 4000's like I have which have the relief valve built into the pump.
 
Thanks Destroked. Is there a way to confirm it's built into the pump? I'd hate to tear the system up on an assumption.
 

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