Looking for a 6 volt ignition wiring diagram for my Jubilee. Can anyone help? Bought the ignition wiring kit from Yesterdays Tractor, but am very confused. Any advise on doing this is really needed and greatly appreciated by this newby.

That sounds right to me but verify the post hooked to field is

insulated from the body of the generator. The ground is not.

You can get "liquid electrical tape" at places like radio Shack. It is a liquid rubber in a bottle with a brush built into the lid and you brush it on and let it cure/dry.

If you have an original VReg and it works, keep it.

I have had very bad luck with replacements.

I'd rather have the spliced wires.

On the other hand, I would also try penetrating oil.

WD-40 is a water displacer, not a penetrating oil.

PB Blaster, Kroil, ATF, even Liquid Wrench.

As long as you don't mess up the screw heads you have a shot.

Thanks Royce. I finaly got the screw out after taking your advise. Time and the right solvent, a great combination . Before I turn the key and fry someting, I want to double check this. On the generator, on the end opposite the pulley, is a terminal that connEcts to the voltage regulator arm. On the side of the generator is a terminal. This connects to the fld on the vr. Then on the bottom of the generator is a terminal that
ConnEcts to the vr ground. The diagram I am using is a bit fuzzy, and on one of the wires where there was a loop,where I thought there was asupposed to be a spade end. Please verify that this is correct. Also, bending this wire in the cold caused some cracks in the insulation. Is this Repairabĺe with something besides electrical tape? It will be difficult to wrap without undoing a lot of stuff. Thanks fomr taking your time with this very elementary stuff.
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Thanks. Is the wiring statement accurate?

"Thought the dog leg was independent from the top."

Technically it is. They are bolted together.

Getting at those bolts is a lot harder than the bottom one though.

Thanks Royce. Thought the dog leg was independent from the top.

There should have been four 1/4-28 bolts holding the hood to the

side of the nose piece that holds the emblem, plus one through
the top inner rail of the hood and nose piece and then the large
bolt at the bottom of the dogleg. Assuming you have the grill out.

I don't take the hood off mine to re-wire them but if I already

have it off I wire them before putting them back on.

Thanks Royce and Phil. Will be at it after THE GAME tomorrow. Go Buckeyes!!!!

I've never found it necessary to remove the hood.

If I already have the hood off, I wire them then because it is easier.

I wouldn't go through the trouble of removing it just to rewire though.

\Thanks. Great diagram. A few connections under the hood are a bit difficult to get to. Would it be easier to remove the hood?

NO! taking the hood off is not "the easier way! "

Ignition o a 6v tractor is as simple as power from battery thru key, to coil, thru coil to distributor.

Starter is thumb button to start relay small terminal, hot terminal to battery hot, other terminal to starter.

At a minimum.. that will make your tractor run. ( won't have lights or charge, but it will run! )

Try this site:
http://www.link_disallowed/howtos/pdfs/Wiring-Diagrams-for-Ford-Tractors.pdf

If you have specific questions, let me know. I just did one for 6 volt 600.

ooops sorry that link is disallowed. worked for me. i'll search again. I see someone else found a good link.

Google "wiring diagrams by JMOR"

You'll find what you need there.

If you have specific questions let us know. :)

My physical limitations prevent me from getting to the wiring under the front hood, so I am attempting to remove the left side of the hood for easier access. I have the rear left portion unattached and removed the three bolts to the left of the emblem, but it still is attached in front. Are there other attachment points on the front left side of the hood?

Am having trouble getting the slotted screws off of the voltage regulator. Have soaked them in WD-40 for several days. The regulator appears to be the original one. Has gotten alot of water on it. Maybe it should be replaced while I have the hood off. I was able to brush hog my three acres, so it is still functional, but will be much more difficult to replace when I get the hood back on. The regulator pictured in Yesterdays Tractors, looks nothing like the one in place now. If I would keep the original and am not able to remove the slotted terminal screws, can the new wires be spliced into the old wires at the terminal. Thx much for your continued help.