Alright, so I have started taking the pump off of the Ford 4400. I tried cranking on it, and it wasn't producing ANYTHING at the injectors with the lines cracked. No air / fuel, etc. I took off both fuel (supply?) lines and they seemed to have enough flow. Then removed the rest of the lines / cable stuff.

I am preparing to drain the antifreeze and remove the front return hose so that I can actually find the timing cover! Question is clearance though? Do I have to remove the starter to pull the injector pump off? I really hope not, but it is sure looking that way. There is only about an inch between the back of the pump and the front of the starter.

Doing this with the loader on it really really sucks. Kind of thinking that I should have just bit the bullet and taken the loader off completely, but I am in a time crunch now, and need my machine back! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!!

There is a plate on the back side of the pump. There will be a tube from the filters attached to the top of the plate. Four bolts hold this plate on. Remove the four bolts and take the plate to the work bench. There is a filter just under the place the tube attaches to. If this filter become clogged then the symptoms you describe with your tractor will occur. Happened to my tractor last week. I did haul tractor to local mechanic because I am not as handy with my hands as I ounce was.

Oh really? Interesting, I'll have a look! Thanks for the tip!

You asked about this pump on Tractor Talk the other day.
I gave you a fairly detailed reply.
Did you not read it?

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Yes I did read it, in fact I have it printed and taped to the side of the tractor!

I am asking about the clearance of removing the pump, you never specified if it was necessary or not to remove other things to gain additional room, such as the starter, fuel filters, etc.

Stupid question.... did you bleed the pump body bleeder?

As far as removing the pump, you're on the right track. You don't need to remove the starter. What you should do is note the position of the pump relative to it's index marks on the adapter plate. Normally they're set at 'zero' but not always. From there, remove the lines. You can probably remove it without breaking the coolant hose open but it's easier if you do. Remove the access cover, then remove the 3 bolts in the drive gear. Lastly, remove the nuts holding the pump on and it should swivel out clear of the starter. Very easy removal and install.

Rod

Well, I kind of thought that I could do it without moving the coolant hose at first as well, but it is just RIGHT in the way! I am thinking I might try a bungee cord or something to hold it out of the way while I work.....

Ultradog told me previously that I should set the pump back at half a line past zero when I install it. I haven't looked to see where it is yet, but will be sure to do so before I remove it.

As far as bleeding the pump body, I did not, nor do I know how to do that, but I am 99% sure something failed in the pump, because it just failed, not like something happened after I replaced filters, or was messing around in there, it just slowly failed over the course of a few days. :/

That pump is not hard to bleed when working correctly. Just make sure there's air free fuel at the inlet, then bleed the system as per the owner's manual. There's a problem sometimes when NAPA/WIX filters are used, and installed with an O ring by mistake in the filter top OUTER groove, that's the fuel inlet. Putting an O ring in the groove restricts/stops the fuel flow. I've made several service calls to correct that mistake. CAV filters don't have that problem as they flow different.