Had an opportunity to finish the diagnosis on the alternator after work today.
Seems cut and dry, unhooked the 3 wire connector and the single wire and found that when the single wire was hooked up by itself, with a test light from the ground cable to the negative battery post, the test light illuminated, unhooked, the light was off, so it must be shorted.
Figured with my TPI digital multi-meter on the 20V DC setting, I could check to see what the alternator was putting out when running, 0.14 volts. That's assuming I can test it that way, no load on it. It showed negative depending on what male blade ends on the alternator the leads with points were touching. Funny I recalled with everything hooked up, it read 13.75 volts, with a fully charged battery(trickle charged)that was slowly draining.
So it seems I'm off for a battery and alternator, the seal for the fuel gauge sending unit and some other odds and ends, low profile battery shut off switch.
Seems cut and dry, unhooked the 3 wire connector and the single wire and found that when the single wire was hooked up by itself, with a test light from the ground cable to the negative battery post, the test light illuminated, unhooked, the light was off, so it must be shorted.
Figured with my TPI digital multi-meter on the 20V DC setting, I could check to see what the alternator was putting out when running, 0.14 volts. That's assuming I can test it that way, no load on it. It showed negative depending on what male blade ends on the alternator the leads with points were touching. Funny I recalled with everything hooked up, it read 13.75 volts, with a fully charged battery(trickle charged)that was slowly draining.
So it seems I'm off for a battery and alternator, the seal for the fuel gauge sending unit and some other odds and ends, low profile battery shut off switch.
