Welcome! Please use the navigational links on your left to explore our website.

Company Logo Shop Now
   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts

Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Show & Pull Guide
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs

Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

Related Sites
Tractor Shed
Ford 8N/9N Club
Kountry Life
Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
Order Ford 8N Parts Online

8n points

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author  [Modern View]

01-04-2016 11:29:51

Report to Moderator

I need a good set of points for a 8n with front Distributor. It is a lot of trouble to put in, so want to make sure I get a good set.What brand should I use. Thanks.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]

01-07-2016 11:03:01

Report to Moderator
 Re: 8n points in reply to BHpony, 01-04-2016 11:29:51  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

Ditto,ditto and ditto!And be careful with the wiring in the dist. and when setting the coil back on the top of the dist.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Tim PloughNman Daley

01-05-2016 03:35:59

Report to Moderator
 Re: 8n points in reply to BHpony, 01-04-2016 11:29:51  
The front mount distributor R&R procedure is one of the easiest PM jobs to do. Do you have an I&T F-04 Manual? Makes it easier to follow along in your books. Unsnap all 4 spark plug wires. Remove the coil wire -a small 5/32" ignition wrench will work. Remove the two bolts that mount it to the block -a 1/2" combination wrench is required. I find it easier for me if I loosen the generator first and move the belt out of the way so I can get my rather large hands in there. Next is to wiggle the entire distributor out so you can do the job on your workbench or kitchen table. I go to NAPA and get the Echlin Points and other parts needed; you'll need a new gasket kit-4 total, new condenser, new cap, new rotor, and cam lube as well as new set of plugs. Most of us use either the Champion H12 (512) plugs or the AUTO-LITE 437 ones -both are equally good choices. The new points will have a small tube of the lube. Once you clean up the body before taking it apart, unsnap the coil bail and set it aside. You may want to check the slop in the bushings first and replace if needed. Setting the timing on the new points isn't as hard as some think. There is a little application/setting gage made by Dan Allen, aka The Old Hokie (TOH), at windy ridge farms.com that is well built and allows one to set the timing perfectly. You must follow the timing instructions included with it and use the F-04 or original Operators Manual for reference as you go. Remove old condenser and replace with the new one. When points and timing are set correctly, put a new gasket in to cover and protect the inside works from dust and moisture. Set the new rotor on to the shaft. Scrape off the old gasket that goes between the unit and the engine mounting surface. Apply the new gasket onto the unit. Clean the engine mounting surface too. Put a new cork gasket on the bottom of the coil. A little dab of RV Silicon will help hold it in place. Check that the pigtail wire from the coil is making a good contact with the copper strip. Snap coil back onto the unit. Re-install distributor to the tractor ensuring the offset tang is aligned correctly into the slot on block. Do not force the unit down when putting the two bolts back in. If it is not aligned correctly it will be off 180 degrees and bust the unit when cranked over. Finger start all bolts, feel that the unit is seated flush before torqueing the two bolts down. Re-install the 4 plug wires. Re-install the coil wire. Replace all 4 spark plugs as well, that way you will complete the annual tune-up PM job. If plug wires are old, replace them too. Start engine and observe the smooth running sounds of a properly tuned up engine. If you want a complete tutorial on PM projects, go to the other Ford Tractor site for a whole library of things. If you want me to rebuild your front mount distributor, you can send it to me and just pay for new parts and shipping both ways. My email is open either way...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*
third party imagethird party image

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

01-04-2016 17:53:21

Report to Moderator
 Re: 8n points in reply to BHpony, 01-04-2016 11:29:51  
I'm with Dean, Standard Ignition BlueStreak or Echlin, but
premium. They will have a phenolic rubbing block, not a
plastic one that will melt and close the points gap real quick.

BlueStreak #FD-6769X (make sure they have the "X")

Two bolts and one wire, whole distributor comes off to install.

Set the timing and gap on the bench, then put it back in.

Only goes in one way unless you force it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

01-04-2016 16:16:04

Report to Moderator
 Re: 8n points in reply to BHpony, 01-04-2016 11:29:51  
Std. Ign. Blue Streak or Echlin premium.

That said, they are not difficult to install. Simply snap the distributor off and install and set on the bench.


[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]

01-04-2016 13:03:11

Report to Moderator
 Re: 8n points in reply to BHpony, 01-04-2016 11:29:51  
Get a set of NAPA/Echlin opoints

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums

Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: need 3 point arms (with the ball) especially need the [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2021 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy