Ford 5000 new ignition switch not the same as old.

Shealray · Jun 8, 2015

For my Ford 5000 purchased a new ignition switch from ford tractor dealership and it is not the same as old.

We know the power wire and the yellow wire goes to (s) on solenoid.

We need assistance in where to put the (5) wires on new switch.

Picture show old ignition switch and new.

Thanks for the help.

Sean in PA · Jun 8, 2015

Not sure what you mean by "We know the power wire and the yellow wire goes to (s) on solenoid." Only one wire from the key switch should go to the solenoid.

Is this a gasoline or diesel tractor? Since it only has 3 terminals on the key switch and you say that there's 5 wires I will assume that it's a gasoline engine.

Use an ohmmeter to measure continuity between the various terminals on the back with the key in the various positions. One pair of terminals should only have continuity between them when the key is in the start position. The third terminal should have continuity to one of the first two when the key is in the run position.

The terminal that has continuity to the one when the key is in the start position and the other when in the run position is where you connect the hot wire coming from the Voltage Regulator (original wire color was brown) and the wire going to the light switch (original wire color also brown). The one that has continuity to the hot terminal when only in the start position should connect to the solenoid (original wire color is white with a yellow stripe). The other terminal should go to everything else that needs power while the tractor is running, which is the instrument cluster (white) plus, if it's a gas engine then the primary of the coil as well (brown with red stripe), either through the original resistance wire or through a ballast resistor if the original wire has been replaced, or directly if the coil has been replaced by a 12 volt coil that does not need an external resistance.

Shealray · Jun 8, 2015

(quoted from post at 18:41:31 06/08/15) Not sure what you mean by "We know the power wire and the yellow wire goes to (s) on solenoid." Only one wire from the key switch should go to the solenoid.

Is this a gasoline or diesel tractor? Since it only has 3 terminals on the key switch and you say that there's 5 wires I will assume that it's a gasoline engine.

Use an ohmmeter to measure continuity between the various terminals on the back with the key in the various positions. One pair of terminals should only have continuity between them when the key is in the start position. The third terminal should have continuity to one of the first two when the key is in the run position.

The terminal that has continuity to the one when the key is in the start position and the other when in the run position is where you connect the hot wire coming from the Voltage Regulator (original wire color was brown) and the wire going to the light switch (original wire color also brown). The one that has continuity to the hot terminal when only in the start position should connect to the solenoid (original wire color is white with a yellow stripe). The other terminal should go to everything else that needs power while the tractor is running, which is the instrument cluster (white) plus, if it's a gas engine then the primary of the coil as well (brown with red stripe), either through the original resistance wire or through a ballast resistor if the original wire has been replaced, or directly if the coil has been replaced by a 12 volt coil that does not need an external resistance.

Yes this is gas. The wire is yellow that goes to s on solenoid not sure where it goes to switch. Have printed out instructions will do the steps you gave in the morning let you know how it goes. Thank you very much for the help.

Shealray · Jun 9, 2015

(quoted from post at 18:41:31 06/08/15) Not sure what you mean by "We know the power wire and the yellow wire goes to (s) on solenoid." Only one wire from the key switch should go to the solenoid.

Is this a gasoline or diesel tractor? Since it only has 3 terminals on the key switch and you say that there's 5 wires I will assume that it's a gasoline engine.

Use an ohmmeter to measure continuity between the various terminals on the back with the key in the various positions. One pair of terminals should only have continuity between them when the key is in the start position. The third terminal should have continuity to one of the first two when the key is in the run position.

The terminal that has continuity to the one when the key is in the start position and the other when in the run position is where you connect the hot wire coming from the Voltage Regulator (original wire color was brown) and the wire going to the light switch (original wire color also brown). The one that has continuity to the hot terminal when only in the start position should connect to the solenoid (original wire color is white with a yellow stripe). The other terminal should go to everything else that needs power while the tractor is running, which is the instrument cluster (white) plus, if it's a gas engine then the primary of the coil as well (brown with red stripe), either through the original resistance wire or through a ballast resistor if the original wire has been replaced, or directly if the coil has been replaced by a 12 volt coil that does not need an external resistance.

We tested the old switch with an ohmmeter per your instruction and it works as you said so the old switch is good.

We tested the old solenoid with meter with out starter and could hear it click and see voltage so old solenoid works.

We tested the starter out of tractor by hooking jumper cables from solenoid for power to see if switch will engage starter and disengage Bendix and this worked. Old switch and old solenoid work.
Starter was rebuilt by a starter shop.

We did some measuring and believe the drive gear is not re tracking enough by 1/16 of an inch enough
and catches the flywheel.

We are guessing drive assembly gear is 1/16 to long.

The starter as been rebuilt by the starter shop 2 times. So taking it back there a 3rd time will not fix the issue.

If we file down the drive gear on the starter it will clear the flywheel on the tractor we are willing to take apart the starter and do this.

What are your thoughts on this?

Sean in PA · Jun 9, 2015

Did the starter ever work properly since you have owned the tractor?

Shealray · Jun 9, 2015

(quoted from post at 12:39:24 06/09/15) Did the starter ever work properly since you have owned the tractor?

Praise the lord and pass the potatoes.

Yes now the starter starts the tractor.
Yes we had this tractor 5 years had to put a rebuild on it 5 years ago.

Thanks to you all and our determination and our passed careers in problem solving (computers and engineering) we made it work.

conclusion:

Adding new parts to old tractor parts can be interesting to say the least.
Manufactures change new specs and a 1/16" in metal makes a world of difference. Bendix gear not pressed on drive shaft far enough or spacer to long.
Understanding procedures on how to trouble shoot are very important.
Sharing this information is more important so the old equipment can still function.

Now the weather is drying up and I can cut hay feed the horses who teach others.
All this made possible from the kindness of sharing knowledge.
Knowledge is power.

Thank you all

Sean in PA · Jun 9, 2015

Glad to hear you got it solved.

Ford 5000 new ignition switch not the same as old.

Shealray

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Sean in PA

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Shealray

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Shealray

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Sean in PA

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Shealray

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Sean in PA

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