6600 Ford axle seal

The right axle seal on my neighbors 6600 is leaking and he wants it fixed.
I'm use to working on antique John Deere and Allis-Chalmers tractors.
Need a few pointers. Does rear end need to be drained? I know the housing has to come off and pull the brake assembly and axle but not really any other details. Biggest problem will be working with the tire since its full of fluid. Thanks for any help.

That rear is a double reduction axle so it also also has a planetary gear set up inside ii in addition to the wet brakes.

I haven't had to do it yet myself but I read up on it in the shop manual for my 4000, which is a similar double reduction rear axle and wet brakes setup.

You do have to drain the rear end, then jack up the entire rear end and support the center and opposite axle with jack stands, and use a hoist to support the axle that you are removing. According to the procedure in the manual you leave the wheel attached to the hub and unbolt the axle housing from the center housing and slide the whole thing straight out so the shaft disengages from the differential cleanly and then you turn the whole assembly on its side so that the axle is standing straight up and the wheel is flat on the ground, and then you take the inside out from the top down.

There are a lot of parts in there because of the double reduction gears and wet brake assembly, so you really should have a shop manual to make it easier on yourself and to make sure everything is put together properly afterwards.

The I&T shop manual for that tractor is the FO-42, and it is less than $35.00 and it should have the procedure in there. If you are charging for the work then add the cost of the manual. If you are just helping a neighbor, recommend that he purchase the manual.

Sounds a little involved. He will for sure need to
buy a manual. He doesn't have a hoist neither do I.
No way we would ever get it off and lay it down with
wheel on. Tire is filled to the brim with fluid.

It's not a terribly technical job but it's a pain in the rear...
I always support it and remove the wheel from that side.... then use a set of forks or a engine cherry picker to sling the axle housing. It needs to pull straight out about 4-6" to disengage the sun shaft, then you can lower it. ALSO BE AWARE that the right side housing contains the differential and it can/will fall out if the sun shaft comes clear with the housing... so watch it and make sure it doesn't fall. It's not really a big deal... just pay attention.
Once you have it out, stand the axle on it's hub face on a hard floor and start gutting the brake parts out. Once those are all removed you will see the outer axle shaft. It will either have one large retaining bolt with a brass lock tab or a plate with three smaller bolts retaining the shaft. Remove the lock tab then remove the bolt(s). Once this is done you lift the housing off the shaft or knock the housing over and pull the shaft out...
Once that's done you need a 3"+ bearing separator to grasp the outer wheel bearing and a large gear puller to pull the bearing off... or sometimes you can rig it in a press to push the axle out of the bearing. IIRC, removal of two studs will facilitate getting between the separator and the flange. Once that's done you can change the seal...
Reinstall... you set the seal on the shaft, warm the bearing to 400 deg or so and drop it on the shaft until it seats... then set the housing onto the shaft and crimp the seal to the housing. The other fairly critical part is getting the torque set on the axle retaining bolt(s). The large bolt takes 350 ft-lb. I don't recall what the small ones take... but find out and set it correctly. Incorrectly leads to misery...
The rest you reinstall in reverse of removal. Inspect the brake plates and make sure they're not all warped or worn out when you're in there...

Rod

I have posted some pictures of the process for a 4110 in a previous post. I think it is similar for the 6600.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=804242&highlight=

Dealer charges me 500.00 to do it and its worth every penny. I've changed 4 in my life myself and 2 of those I got to change twice because they leaked. Evidentally I distorted the seal on reinstall. RodinNS gives you the correct and proper procedure. Either pump the fluid out or get the correct hoists. That stuff is all heavy and all a pain to deal with. Not hard to do, just heavy and more than one opportunity to get killed or lose a finger. Dealership I use uses a fork lift for the tire/wheel assembly and cherry picker for the axle.

Thanks for the help. We got it apart today wasn't to bad.