Fuel gauge wiring question

So, dumb question but has anyone replaced the fuel gauge on the X01 series with a new Tisco gauge P/N 310949? Got the gauge today and there are three terminals, but they are marked strange. One is marked ground with the symbol for ground. The other two are marked "B" and "T". B for battery or ignition and T for terminal or sender?

Weird markings...any thoughts?
Chris
mvphoto19880.jpg
 
It looks like that gauge may have an internal light. Perhaps one of the terminals is power to the light.
The terminal with the ground symbol should go to the sending unit in the tank as that is the ground for the gauge.
 
(quoted from post at 17:24:22 08/15/13) It looks like that gauge may have an internal light. Perhaps one of the terminals is power to the light.
The terminal with the ground symbol should go to the sending unit in the tank as that is the ground for the gauge.

Yep, it has an internal light. The connector for the light is at the top center inside that black insulator.

Still wondering what "B" and "T" are for... I was thinking the terminal with the Ground symbol was for the gauge light, the "B" terminal was power and the "T" terminal was for the sender. But I am not sure.

Thoughts?
Chris
 
Yeah...I can't get this figured out. If I hook 12v to the B terminal and the sender to the ground I get "full" no matter the position of sender. If it hooks sender and 12v to B and T I get nothing. If I hook 12v to the lamp and ground to the ground, I get a light.

Nothing makes sense here. I measured ohms on the sender and it is variable, compared to the old one which was constant.

I am also working on a lift cover repair. Perhaps I should just concentrate on that...
 
"T" = Tank Sending Unit
"B" = Battery Voltage

Simple explanation of any tank level indicator - Tank unit is a variable resistor that gives different resistance readings depending on the float level in the tank. The higher the float is in the tank, the more resistance the sender makes and the higher the gauge goes. The first troubleshooting step is to make sure your tank is fully grounded and all of the gauge wiring connectors are clean and tight. If that doesn't fix your gauge.... Remove the wire from the sender and see what the gauge does. If the gauge goes to empty with the wire off the sender the sender is shorted out. If you touch the wire to a ground it should peg the gauge. If the gauge still pegs with the wire off the sender the wire might possibly be shorted somewhere between the sender and gauge.

To read accurately, the gauge and tank unit must be matched to the same resistance.
 
(quoted from post at 00:19:47 08/16/13) Yeah...I can't get this figured out. If I hook 12v to the B terminal and the sender to the ground I get "full" no matter the position of sender. If it hooks sender and 12v to B and T I get nothing. If I hook 12v to the lamp and ground to the ground, I get a light.

Nothing makes sense here. I measured ohms on the sender and it is variable, compared to the old one which was constant.

I am also working on a lift cover repair. Perhaps I should just concentrate on that...

Just asking the obvious since you didn't say one way or the other ..... Have you tried connecting B to battery and T to sender AND Ground to ground all at the same time?
 
(quoted from post at 05:46:21 08/16/13)
(quoted from post at 00:19:47 08/16/13) Yeah...I can't get this figured out. If I hook 12v to the B terminal and the sender to the ground I get "full" no matter the position of sender. If it hooks sender and 12v to B and T I get nothing. If I hook 12v to the lamp and ground to the ground, I get a light.

Nothing makes sense here. I measured ohms on the sender and it is variable, compared to the old one which was constant.

I am also working on a lift cover repair. Perhaps I should just concentrate on that...

Just asking the obvious since you didn't say one way or the other ..... Have you tried connecting B to battery and T to sender AND Ground to ground all at the same time?

No...not with the sender installed in tank (pulled it out for testing). Will try that and report back.
 
Closing this out for future searches. Bonehead move by me. I put the sender back in the tank, connected to "T", 12v to "B" and then ground on the gauge to negative on the battery. It works.

Sometimes a guy makes things more complicated than they need to be. :)
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:28 08/16/13) Funny how those pesky electrical circuits won't work without a complete path 8)

Yeah it sure is! :lol: I am usually pretty good with DC wiring, but somehow thought the gauge would get ground from the sender. Thinking too hard I guess!
 
The reason I asked is that for some reason the voice in the back of my head is whispering to me that those new meters might not be true in-line deflection meters like the original meter was, and maybe it is really an ohmmeter that needs its own power and ground to measure the resistance of the sender to its ground and then displays the results on the needle. But that's just the voice in the back of my head talking, not me.
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:38 08/16/13) The reason I asked is that for some reason the voice in the back of my head is whispering to me that those new meters might not be true in-line deflection meters like the original meter was, and maybe it is really an ohmmeter that needs its own power and ground to measure the resistance of the sender to its ground and then displays the results on the needle. But that's just the voice in the back of my head talking, not me.

Ha! That cracks me up...

Yep, believe you are right in how the new meter is versus the old. Hopefully someone will search this post and save themselves some aggravation in the future.
 
Note:

Aftermarket gages are not compatible with the OEM sending unit, evei if, as is unlikely, it is still functional. You must change both.

Dean
 
I believe the ground terminal is just to provide a ground for the internal light. Sender is still providing ground for the gauge through winding and grounded tank.

Garry
 
(quoted from post at 21:35:08 08/17/13) I believe the ground terminal is just to provide a ground for the internal light. Sender is still providing ground for the gauge through winding and grounded tank.

Garry

Hey Garry! Nope, this gauge sender combo needs ground to work. SeaninPA described it well a few posts back.
 

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