Ford 800 distributor

Finneas

New User
I've searched every link I can find for the answer to this. I'm
sure as soon as it finally sinks in ill have a "well, duh" moment.
My tractor was converted to 12v before me and has run great
until now. Starting problems lead me to replace the coil, plugs
points ,etc. there is a terminal block under the dash that is 12v
on one side 6v on the other. 6v wire goes to the coil. Now the
part I can't get straight; is this a 6v coil? Is the block the
resistor or just voltage reducer? Do I use a 12v coil with
resistor? 6v without a resistor?
 
" Is the block the
resistor or just voltage reducer?" Disconnect the wire going to coil & re-measure voltage, if it is now 12v on both in & out terminals, then it is a resistor.
 
If it is a reducer or resistor, does that mean I can use a 12v
coil with a resistor ( or none if this is a resistor) or if it is a
reducer, can I eliminate it and run a 12v coil with a resistor?
 
(quoted from post at 12:11:54 03/21/13) If it is a reducer or resistor, does that mean I can use a 12v
coil with a resistor ( or none if this is a resistor) or if it is a
reducer, can I eliminate it and run a 12v coil with a resistor?
ou can take it out & throw it away, if you use a "true" 12v coil, such as IC14b from NAPA or any other coil with a primary resistance in the 3 to 4 Ohm range.
If use a "12v coil requiring resistor", then you need resistor. The coils requiring resistor will have primary resistance in range of 0.5 to perhaps 2 Ohms, i.e., well under the 3 to 4 range.
 
Thanks for the info! It's slowly sinking in. What was really
confusing me was why was it converted to 12v but half was
still 6v? I read that the points/ distributor don't know the
difference and 12v gives a better spark.
 
(quoted from post at 12:38:13 03/21/13) Thanks for the info! It's slowly sinking in. What was really
confusing me was why was it converted to 12v but half was
still 6v? I read that the points/ distributor don't know the
difference and 12v gives a better spark.
sing the original (before 12v conversion) coil plus a resistor was cheaper than a new "true 12v" coil is likely the reason ....and it does work just fine.
 
my advice?

while it will work fine with 6v coil and resistor..

i'd eliminate the resistor and get a real 12v oil like a napa ic14sb. it won't run ANY better.. but will reduce the number of wiere conenctions that can corode and get loose over time.... less wireing the better.. :)
 
SG is right on...when I did my 641 I went with a 12 volt coil.Anything that can simplify wiring is a good thing..
a107910.jpg
 
...but I used a 6 volt solenoid (because I could find one that was not grounded by its bracket)None of the car stuff would work.
a107920.jpg
 
Beautiful! The really odd thing is that I bought this from a
NAPA store owner. He rebuilt it and used it on his place. I
don't plan on restoring, just using it mostly for weed control.
Since I'm this far along in the tune up I think I'll switch coils
and the block, whatever it is, so the next guy ( or me when I
forget) will have an easier time of it.
 
Solenoid on my Ford F150 truck has a coil the grounds thru its bracket.It does have an internal diode across the coil so it can only be used on negative ground systems.
 

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