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Electrical problem possible solenoid

J

Jack L. Massimino Sr.

Member
This message is a reply to an archived post by 36 coupe on May 19, 2012 at 03:28:33.
The original subject was "Re: Electrical problem possible solenoid".

Hi guys, I finally rewired my 601 with a diagram I found on this site but for the life of me can"t find the post. Anyway, I wired it with the original on/off key switch and it is set up for the original push button start switch. The other day before I put the hood back on, I threw the old battery in and hooked the jumper cables to it. I turned on the key and pushed the button. The starter started to turn over which I took as a good sign. I knew it wouldn"t start because that old battery is totaled. It will not take a charge for anything. I put the hood back on and grabbed the battery out of my 65 Chevelle which is a good battery. I hooked it up and now when I hit the starter switch all I get is one click from the solenoid. Then it won"t even click till the battery is unhooked for a few minutes and then rehooked up. There is again power to the battery side of the solenoid but no power to the starter side when I push the button. I was reading in another thread to unhook the wire from the starter switch and ground the wire out and it should turn over if the switch is bad. All I get is the one click. Now I didn"t go get a 4 post solenoid for the diesel and am now wondering if that is the problem or what. What do you guys think? And if someone has a diagram like the ones I found here somewhere that is in English and simple like this one, I would greatly appreciate it if you could post it. My set up is with a one wire alternator and a 4 wire solenoid.

Here is the link for the thread.
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=524938
 
Your starter may be stuck in the ring gear.
That click you hear should put 12 volts on the starter side of the solenoid.
Measure it with the wire to the starter disconnected.
If you have 12 volts there then I'd try to get the starter unstuck by putting the tractor in gear and rocking it.
If that doesn't work you can take the starter out, clean the shaft up and make sure the bendix works.
Jumping it directly to the starter may also make it roll, but make absolutely sure its in neutral if you do.
 
clean all electrical connections.. put a good bat in it.

remove the wire fromthe solenoid to the starter.. instead hookup a lamp. hit starter button.. if lamp lights.. solenoid is connecting.

post back
 
I've had the same thing happen numerous times and it turns out to be corrosion inside the battery cable clamp or corrosion on the battery posts. Clean off that dull gray oxidation and it fires right up. The corrosion will allow enough juice to go through to illuminate lights but as soon as you put the heavy draw of the starter on the system the corrosion blocks current flow.
 
OK Guys, I cleaned the battery cable ends just to
be sure, I used my test light and with it touching
the battery side of the solenoid, key on, it
lights up and touching the starter side, no light
with the starter button pushed and without it
pushed. Then I used my volt meter and checked,
and had 12.4 volts on the battery side and nothing
on the starter side. Then just for grins I hooked
my jumper cables to the battery and grounded the
ground to the frame and hooked the positive cable
directly to the starter. Thew starter turned over
like it is supposed to. So......does it sound
like I need the equivalent of a Ford 311006 (the
12V Diesel solenoid) and a new starter switch or
just a solenoid or what? Thanks for helping this
guy with no real knowledge of these wonderful
tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 17:18:03 08/29/12) OK Guys, I cleaned the battery cable ends just to
be sure, I used my test light and with it touching
the battery side of the solenoid, key on, it
lights up and touching the starter side, no light
with the starter button pushed and without it
pushed. Then I used my volt meter and checked,
and had 12.4 volts on the battery side and nothing
on the starter side. Then just for grins I hooked
my jumper cables to the battery and grounded the
ground to the frame and hooked the positive cable
directly to the starter. Thew starter turned over
like it is supposed to. So......does it sound
like I need the equivalent of a Ford 311006 (the
12V Diesel solenoid) and a new starter switch or
just a solenoid or what? Thanks for helping this
guy with no real knowledge of these wonderful
tractors.
Click to expand...
nsufficient information to answer that question. On a 601, one small solenoid terminal needs battery power & the other small terminal needs ground in order to activate. Be sure both a present.
 
(quoted from post at 23:09:42 08/29/12) Both are.
Click to expand...
o,m you are stating that one small terminal has battery voltage & the other has ground? Yet the solenoid does not activate?
 

From this far away it sure sounds as though you need a solenoid. However, one question needs to be answered before you change it out. Was the cable from the solenoid to the starter disconected when you found no voltage on the starter side of the solenoid? If it was, it's definately the solenoid. If not, the starter could be drawing enough current for a VOM not to show voltage there.
 

Whether Jack has the correct solenoid is still a question that needs answering, as far as I can see.
 
That's what I wonder. If you follow the link in my
first post at the bottom, there is a lot of info as
to what the guys are saying about the solenoid I
should be using. Now that the tractor is wired to
use the original started button, I wonder id I still
need to get the diesel solenoid that is recommended?
 
(quoted from post at 12:14:48 08/30/12) That's what I wonder. If you follow the link in my
first post at the bottom, there is a lot of info as
to what the guys are saying about the solenoid I
should be using. Now that the tractor is wired to
use the original started button, I wonder id I still
need to get the diesel solenoid that is recommended?
Click to expand...
pply 12v to "S" terminal & see if that activates it.
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:42 08/30/12) I unhooked the starter cable from the starter side
of the solenoid. No power what so ever on the
starter side of the solenoid.
Click to expand...

One thing it did have was power to both small terminals and the one small terminal is only connected to the transmission starter button which is only a ground.
 
(quoted from post at 16:20:21 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 21:14:42 08/30/12) I unhooked the starter cable from the starter side
of the solenoid. No power what so ever on the
starter side of the solenoid.
Click to expand...

One thing it did have was power to both small terminals and the one small terminal is only connected to the transmission starter button which is only a ground.
Click to expand...


The transmission starter switch is only a ground wghen it is being pushed, otherwise it is an open switch.

Both sides of the primary (both small terminals) should be hot when the starter button is not being pushed, as the only thing that's between them is the primary coil of the solenoid, and that's just a piece of copper wire with almost no resistance until the starter button gets engaged and current starts to flow through it and it becomes an electromagnet and starts doing real work, and then the magnetic field will produce counter emf and then you should see the full battery voltage across them.

Is the big cable from the battery to the solenoid hot at the solenoid end?
 
This is the wiring diagram I followed minus the lights. Thanks to K. LaRue.
10416.jpg
 
I just pulled the solenoid off and am going to the New Holland dealer and get the 12V diesel solenoid tomorrow. I just noticed on the back of the solenoid stamped in blue ink "41-6V" and below that "2LB" It is also stamped. Made in USA. Don't know if this is a part number reference or other code.
 
(quoted from post at 15:42:43 08/30/12) Yes the big Battery cable is hot at the solenoid
end.
Click to expand...

The big cable, the one from the solenoid to the starter, is hot at the solenoid when disconnected from the starter and the starter switch is pushed???? If so and other end of cable isn't, you've got cable problems.
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:27 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 15:42:43 08/30/12) Yes the big Battery cable is hot at the solenoid
end.
Click to expand...

The big cable, the one from the solenoid to the starter, is hot at the solenoid when disconnected from the starter and the starter switch is pushed???? If so and other end of cable isn't, you've got cable problems.
Click to expand...


For some reason it didn't come out like I wanted it to. This tractor is driving me nuts. No power what so ever on the starter side of the solenoid. 13 volts at the battery side.
 
(quoted from post at 20:28:11 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 20:04:27 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 15:42:43 08/30/12) Yes the big Battery cable is hot at the solenoid
end.
Click to expand...

The big cable, the one from the solenoid to the starter, is hot at the solenoid when disconnected from the starter and the starter switch is pushed???? If so and other end of cable isn't, you've got cable problems.
Click to expand...


For some reason it didn't come out like I wanted it to. This tractor is driving me nuts. No power what so ever on the starter side of the solenoid. 13 volts at the battery side.
Click to expand...

You never did what I told you to do , did you??????
"apply 12v to "S" terminal & see if that activates it."
 
(quoted from post at 15:02:50 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 12:14:48 08/30/12) That's what I wonder. If you follow the link in my
first post at the bottom, there is a lot of info as
to what the guys are saying about the solenoid I
should be using. Now that the tractor is wired to
use the original started button, I wonder id I still
need to get the diesel solenoid that is recommended?
Click to expand...
pply 12v to "S" terminal & see if that activates it.
Click to expand...

Do you want me to have both battery and starter side large terminals hooked up and the power to the one small terminal and then hook power to the S terminal? I just want to be completely clear.
 
(quoted from post at 00:13:14 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:02:50 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 12:14:48 08/30/12) That's what I wonder. If you follow the link in my
first post at the bottom, there is a lot of info as
to what the guys are saying about the solenoid I
should be using. Now that the tractor is wired to
use the original started button, I wonder id I still
need to get the diesel solenoid that is recommended?
Click to expand...
pply 12v to "S" terminal & see if that activates it.
Click to expand...

Do you want me to have both battery and starter side large terminals hooked up and the power to the one small terminal and then hook power to the S terminal? I just want to be completely clear.
Click to expand...
es, that is correct. I suspect that you do not have the correct solenoid & that the one you have needs 12v applied to the S terminal to activate it. This is a way to verify that.
 
(quoted from post at 01:45:07 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 00:13:14 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:02:50 08/30/12)
(quoted from post at 12:14:48 08/30/12) That's what I wonder. If you follow the link in my
first post at the bottom, there is a lot of info as
to what the guys are saying about the solenoid I
should be using. Now that the tractor is wired to
use the original started button, I wonder id I still
need to get the diesel solenoid that is recommended?
Click to expand...
pply 12v to "S" terminal & see if that activates it.
Click to expand...

Do you want me to have both battery and starter side large terminals hooked up and the power to the one small terminal and then hook power to the S terminal? I just want to be completely clear.
Click to expand...
es, that is correct. I suspect that you do not have the correct solenoid & that the one you have needs 12v applied to the S terminal to activate it. This is a way to verify that.
Click to expand...

OK, I will do it in the morning.
 
Unfortunately, there are a dozen solenoid types out there & some even though completely different in how they function have the same terminal markings! Makes it very difficult for the majority of folks. :cry:
 
(quoted from post at 00:23:38 08/31/12) Unfortunately, there are a dozen solenoid types out there & some even though completely different in how they function have the same terminal markings! Makes it very difficult for the majority of folks. :cry:
Click to expand...

True. From what he's describing, he's got a 4 post solenoid, but the schematic that he posted a picture of looks like a 3 post solenoid, so I don't know how he could have followed that schematic with a 4 post solenoid.
 
(quoted from post at 08:32:59 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 00:23:38 08/31/12) Unfortunately, there are a dozen solenoid types out there & some even though completely different in how they function have the same terminal markings! Makes it very difficult for the majority of folks. :cry:
Click to expand...

True. From what he's describing, he's got a 4 post solenoid, but the schematic that he posted a picture of looks like a 3 post solenoid, so I don't know how he could have followed that schematic with a 4 post solenoid.
Click to expand...
he modified K.LaRue schematic is the only one I see in this thread & it shows a wire from switched ign and a wire from neutral safety start button??????
I'm just taking a shot in the dark (at least dim light), but guessing that he has solenoid on right & needs solenoid on left (without red wire). Little terminals on both are often marked "S" and "I", which never made sense to me, but it allows maker to use a common case & save a nickel.
fourtermsolenoids_acts_as_3.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 10:02:59 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 00:23:38 08/31/12) Unfortunately, there are a dozen solenoid types out there & some even though completely different in how they function have the same terminal markings! Makes it very difficult for the majority of folks. :cry:
Click to expand...

True. From what he's describing, he's got a 4 post solenoid, but the schematic that he posted a picture of looks like a 3 post solenoid, so I don't know how he could have followed that schematic with a 4 post solenoid.
Click to expand...
Look closer at the schematic. It has 4 posts.
 
OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
 
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
 
(quoted from post at 11:23:05 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 10:02:59 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 00:23:38 08/31/12) Unfortunately, there are a dozen solenoid types out there & some even though completely different in how they function have the same terminal markings! Makes it very difficult for the majority of folks. :cry:
Click to expand...

True. From what he's describing, he's got a 4 post solenoid, but the schematic that he posted a picture of looks like a 3 post solenoid, so I don't know how he could have followed that schematic with a 4 post solenoid.
Click to expand...
Look closer at the schematic. It has 4 posts.
Click to expand...

Sorry, the picture was so small in my browser I missed the 4th wire. I had to zoom the picture a bit to see it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
 
6v is the coil voltage rating of the relay. 12v will make double the amps in the coil circuit (hot). get a 12v solenoid.
 
(quoted from post at 18:57:41 08/31/12) 6v is the coil voltage rating of the relay. 12v will make double the amps in the coil circuit (hot). get a 12v solenoid.
Click to expand...

It is a 12V solenoid. I have already been told by several other guys on here that there are several 12V solenoids. I most likely have the wrong one. I've also been told to get the 12V diesel solenoid.
 
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
Click to expand...

Test #1 and #2 NO CLICK at all.

Test #3 Definite click.
 
(quoted from post at 19:04:41 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
Click to expand...

Test #1 and #2 NO CLICK at all.

Test #3 Definite click.
Click to expand...
K!!! :) That verifies that you have the correct solenoid type. Likely means a wiring or switch problem, so........next re-install, except this time only connect the two large terminals. Leave "S" & "I" NOT connected. After installation find scrap wire, test clip leads or as before anything that will conduct electric current AND connect "S" to the same large solenoid terminal that battery is connected to. Next BE SURE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. Next, connect (again using jumper wire, connect chassis ground, that is the side of battery grounded to chassis) to "I".........this should activate solenoid/make click & turn starter motor. Let me know.
 
(quoted from post at 21:28:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:04:41 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
Click to expand...

Test #1 and #2 NO CLICK at all.

Test #3 Definite click.
Click to expand...
K!!! :) That verifies that you have the correct solenoid type. Likely means a wiring or switch problem, so........next re-install, except this time only connect the two large terminals. Leave "S" & "I" NOT connected. After installation find scrap wire, test clip leads or as before anything that will conduct electric current AND connect "S" to the same large solenoid terminal that battery is connected to. Next BE SURE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. Next, connect (again using jumper wire, connect chassis ground, that is the side of battery grounded to chassis) to "I".........this should activate solenoid/make click & turn starter motor. Let me know.
Click to expand...

OK, all I get is the solenoid clicking when I do this. Now tell me, does it matter what large post is connected to the batter and which is connected to the starter? I know the starter will turn over. I connected it to the battery with jumper cables and grounded it to the frame. The battery is connected to the large terminal on the same side as the "I" and the starter is connected to the large side of the solenoid as the "S" is on.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:25 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 21:28:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:04:41 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
Click to expand...

Test #1 and #2 NO CLICK at all.

Test #3 Definite click.
Click to expand...
K!!! :) That verifies that you have the correct solenoid type. Likely means a wiring or switch problem, so........next re-install, except this time only connect the two large terminals. Leave "S" & "I" NOT connected. After installation find scrap wire, test clip leads or as before anything that will conduct electric current AND connect "S" to the same large solenoid terminal that battery is connected to. Next BE SURE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. Next, connect (again using jumper wire, connect chassis ground, that is the side of battery grounded to chassis) to "I".........this should activate solenoid/make click & turn starter motor. Let me know.
Click to expand...

OK, all I get is the solenoid clicking when I do this. Now tell me, does it matter what large post is connected to the batter and which is connected to the starter? I know the starter will turn over. I connected it to the battery with jumper cables and grounded it to the frame. The battery is connected to the large terminal on the same side as the "I" and the starter is connected to the large side of the solenoid as the "S" is on.
Click to expand...

For your particular solenoid, it does not matter as to which large terminal. Next test is to verify your battery cables/connections & ground.
Use your jumper cable to connect one large terminal to the other. If still no started motor run, then connect one jumper cable in parallel with the battery cable running from battery to solenoid AND the other from a good clean chassis ground (shiny bolt) to the other battery post. We are simply paralleling each battery cable with a jumper cable. THEN re-connect the "S" & "I" jumpers as before. Anything?
 
(quoted from post at 22:04:39 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:25 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 21:28:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:04:41 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
Click to expand...

Test #1 and #2 NO CLICK at all.

Test #3 Definite click.
Click to expand...
K!!! :) That verifies that you have the correct solenoid type. Likely means a wiring or switch problem, so........next re-install, except this time only connect the two large terminals. Leave "S" & "I" NOT connected. After installation find scrap wire, test clip leads or as before anything that will conduct electric current AND connect "S" to the same large solenoid terminal that battery is connected to. Next BE SURE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. Next, connect (again using jumper wire, connect chassis ground, that is the side of battery grounded to chassis) to "I".........this should activate solenoid/make click & turn starter motor. Let me know.
Click to expand...

OK, all I get is the solenoid clicking when I do this. Now tell me, does it matter what large post is connected to the batter and which is connected to the starter? I know the starter will turn over. I connected it to the battery with jumper cables and grounded it to the frame. The battery is connected to the large terminal on the same side as the "I" and the starter is connected to the large side of the solenoid as the "S" is on.
Click to expand...

For your particular solenoid, it does not matter as to which large terminal. Next test is to verify your battery cables/connections & ground.
Use your jumper cable to connect one large terminal to the other. If still no started motor run, then connect one jumper cable in parallel with the battery cable running from battery to solenoid AND the other from a good clean chassis ground (shiny bolt) to the other battery post. We are simply paralleling each battery cable with a jumper cable. THEN re-connect the "S" & "I" jumpers as before. Anything?
Click to expand...

OK, Test 1 (connecting both terminals with jumper cable did nothing.
Test 2, Worked great. I connected the positive jumper to the positive on the battery and the positive(Battery side) of the solenoid. Negative to negative battery post and other end of jumper to good clean ground. Then small jumper wire from positive side of solenoid cable to "S" post and "I" post to ground. Starter motor turned over great.
 
(quoted from post at 20:22:36 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 22:04:39 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:25 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 21:28:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:04:41 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 19:55:54 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 16:38:45 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 17:22:31 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 15:33:28 08/31/12) OK, I hooked it back up and put power to the S terminal with everything hooked up. Nothing. I tried pushing the start button. Nothing. Strangely there is about 5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid and 13.5 on the BATTERY side. Pushing the starter button didn't do anything. I unhooked the wire from the start button and touched it to the negative post on the battery and the solenoid clicked like crazy but no start. It also gave me 13.5 volts on the STARTER side of the solenoid. The starter will turn over when I hook it directly to the battery. That is with battery cables. I hook positive battery post to the starter post and negative post to frame. Starter turns engine over. So, it could be a combination of starter button and solenoid. If the starter button does nothing (it is the original one from the factory and was painted over. I had to loosen it up) What do you guys think? Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad. The solenoid did nothing.
Click to expand...
he "S" terminal should never draw enough current to cause a wire to get hot enough to burn you. Can't imagine anything other than solenoid is bad. {{This all assumes that you had no other connection to "S" terminal besides the one wire, in your fingers, whose other end was from the positive terminal of a negatively grounded battery.}}
Click to expand...

I had everything hooked up.I had the solenoid hooked up with all 4 wires and then touched it with the wire from the positive post. When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.
Click to expand...
ack, 1) and 2) statements are at odds with one another.

1) Also, when I put positive directly to the S terminal on the solenoid, the wire instantly got hot and I burned my thumb quite bad.

2) When I got burned is when I touched the starter button wire to the negative post.

It is going to be very difficult to solve a problem when we can't communicate a consistent story!!

Oh, and forget the BS about a 6v solenoid not being just fine on 12v.......doesn't matter anyway since you have a 12v solenoid...just more fodder to further muddy the waters!

Let me make this simple:

TEST #1:
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post to solenoid mounting bracket.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?


TEST #2:
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO either of the large solenoid terminals.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
5) Repeat step #4 except using the opposite large solenoid terminal.
6) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
If yes to click on #4 or #6, then mark the large terminal where you heard the click...for future reference.

TEST #3
(steps #1 and #2 are same as above)
1) Remove solenoid from tractor.
2) Holding solenoid in your hand, touch the "S" terminal to either battery post (your choice).
3) Now use a piece of wire, wrench, screwdriver or anything that conducts electricity & connect the other battery post TO the "I" solenoid terminal.
4) Did you hear a definitive/authoritative click or nothing?
Click to expand...

Test #1 and #2 NO CLICK at all.

Test #3 Definite click.
Click to expand...
K!!! :) That verifies that you have the correct solenoid type. Likely means a wiring or switch problem, so........next re-install, except this time only connect the two large terminals. Leave "S" & "I" NOT connected. After installation find scrap wire, test clip leads or as before anything that will conduct electric current AND connect "S" to the same large solenoid terminal that battery is connected to. Next BE SURE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. Next, connect (again using jumper wire, connect chassis ground, that is the side of battery grounded to chassis) to "I".........this should activate solenoid/make click & turn starter motor. Let me know.
Click to expand...

OK, all I get is the solenoid clicking when I do this. Now tell me, does it matter what large post is connected to the batter and which is connected to the starter? I know the starter will turn over. I connected it to the battery with jumper cables and grounded it to the frame. The battery is connected to the large terminal on the same side as the "I" and the starter is connected to the large side of the solenoid as the "S" is on.
Click to expand...

For your particular solenoid, it does not matter as to which large terminal. Next test is to verify your battery cables/connections & ground.
Use your jumper cable to connect one large terminal to the other. If still no started motor run, then connect one jumper cable in parallel with the battery cable running from battery to solenoid AND the other from a good clean chassis ground (shiny bolt) to the other battery post. We are simply paralleling each battery cable with a jumper cable. THEN re-connect the "S" & "I" jumpers as before. Anything?
Click to expand...

OK, Test 1 (connecting both terminals with jumper cable did nothing.
Test 2, Worked great. I connected the positive jumper to the positive on the battery and the positive(Battery side) of the solenoid. Negative to negative battery post and other end of jumper to good clean ground. Then small jumper wire from positive side of solenoid cable to "S" post and "I" post to ground. Starter motor turned over great.
Click to expand...

OK, remove one jumper cable & repeat the successful connections you just did. If it still works, then that battery cable/connection is OK. If not, then you have isolated the problem to that cable. If it still worked without that jumper, then removal of the other jumper will result in no working & that battery cable/connection is your problem.
 

OK, I will do that in the morning. It's dark here and the tractor is out side. So the solenoid is probably good then? I will do this next test in the morning and let you know. I have a feeling it is the negative cable. That cable is not too good looking. I just replaced both positive cables both the one from battery to solenoid and from solenoid to starter. I really appreciate your patience with me but believe me, you are teaching me something I will be able to help someone else with one day. I will get back to you in the morning. If you have anything else to let me know tonight that I can do in the morning, let me know. Again, thanks so much.
 
(quoted from post at 20:40:45 08/31/12)
OK, I will do that in the morning. It's dark here and the tractor is out side. So the solenoid is probably good then? I will do this next test in the morning and let you know. I have a feeling it is the negative cable. That cable is not too good looking. I just replaced both positive cables both the one from battery to solenoid and from solenoid to starter. I really appreciate your patience with me but believe me, you are teaching me something I will be able to help someone else with one day. I will get back to you in the morning. If you have anything else to let me know tonight that I can do in the morning, let me know. Again, thanks so much.
Click to expand...

When you check the ground cable be sure to unbolt it from the tractor clean all the rust & paint on the surface it contacts when bolted down. Solenoid is good. Next ,after the cable problem is fixed, you will need to deal with the "S" & "I" wires. It does not matter which is which, just that one receives power from the ignition switch (same as wire going to coil from ign sw) and the other receives ground from the neutral safety start switch. Form the sound of things your Neutral safety start switch may be a problem. Just remember that if you get to that point & pushing switch does not initiate cranking (ign on of course), then the switch is probably not providing ground. By now you know how to use a jumper to provide that ground to appropriate small solenoid terminal to show yourself that all else is well. Maybe you'll get lucky & the switch will be OK. Good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 23:00:26 08/31/12)
(quoted from post at 20:40:45 08/31/12)
OK, I will do that in the morning. It's dark here and the tractor is out side. So the solenoid is probably good then? I will do this next test in the morning and let you know. I have a feeling it is the negative cable. That cable is not too good looking. I just replaced both positive cables both the one from battery to solenoid and from solenoid to starter. I really appreciate your patience with me but believe me, you are teaching me something I will be able to help someone else with one day. I will get back to you in the morning. If you have anything else to let me know tonight that I can do in the morning, let me know. Again, thanks so much.
Click to expand...

When you check the ground cable be sure to unbolt it from the tractor clean all the rust & paint on the surface it contacts when bolted down. Solenoid is good. Next ,after the cable problem is fixed, you will need to deal with the "S" & "I" wires. It does not matter which is which, just that one receives power from the ignition switch (same as wire going to coil from ign sw) and the other receives ground from the neutral safety start switch. Form the sound of things your Neutral safety start switch may be a problem. Just remember that if you get to that point & pushing switch does not initiate cranking (ign on of course), then the switch is probably not providing ground. By now you know how to use a jumper to provide that ground to appropriate small solenoid terminal to show yourself that all else is well. Maybe you'll get lucky & the switch will be OK. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I am going to grab a new start button switch to be safe. Like I said, when I got the tractor it had a key starter switch like a car. The old start button was painted over and I had a heck of a time getting it unstuck. I will also grab a new negative cable.I had put a new 12V coil with a resistor in it and had my alternator rebuilt and that has the internal regulator. By the time I'm done, this tractor will have a completely new electrical system. I will let you know tomorrow how it goes.
 
49 posts on the workings of a solenoid, thats bad.A 6v solenoid coil measures 10 ohms.12 volts will produce a large in crease in heat produced.
 
(quoted from post at 21:54:40 08/31/12) 49 posts on the workings of a solenoid, thats bad.A 6v solenoid coil measures 10 ohms.12 volts will produce a large in crease in heat produced.
Click to expand...
6coupe, I'm real sure Jack appreciates the invaluable help that YOU personally gave him that finally solved his problem! :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 00:18:15 09/01/12)
(quoted from post at 21:54:40 08/31/12) 49 posts on the workings of a solenoid, thats bad.A 6v solenoid coil measures 10 ohms.12 volts will produce a large in crease in heat produced.
Click to expand...
6coupe, I'm real sure Jack appreciates the invaluable help that YOU personally gave him that finally solved his problem! :roll:
Click to expand...

Exactly :roll:
 
Well, Thanks to JMOR My 601now starts right up,has the correct solenoid and a complete new wiring job. It runs smoother than I ever heard it run. Thanks for all of your help JMOR. I really appreciate this.
 
If it takes this much discussion to explain the workings of a solenoid it proves my suspicions that this forum is infested with idiots.
 
(quoted from post at 20:55:17 09/01/12) If it takes this much discussion to explain the workings of a solenoid it proves my suspicions that this forum is infested with idiots.[/quot r
I am truly sorry for you, you poor soul!
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:17 09/01/12) If it takes this much discussion to explain the workings of a solenoid it proves my suspicions that this forum is infested with idiots.
Click to expand...

Obviously you are talking about your smug self righteous self.
 
Just a follow up. I can't get over how fast my tractor starts now. It can sit for a few days and I go out and it starts immediately. Thanks JMOR again for all your help.

Jack
 
(quoted from post at 21:09:39 09/11/12) Just a follow up. I can't get over how fast my tractor starts now. It can sit for a few days and I go out and it starts immediately. Thanks JMOR again for all your help.

Jack
Click to expand...
ou are more than welcome, Jack! I try to gather all the information that I can before offering a possible solution. That may take a lot of exchanges. I DO NOT rush to judgement, just so I can be FIRST with an answer (actually a first GUESS). I leave that to the 'specialist' in this area, Dell. And if not him, his followers. Get enough information and it will lead to the correct answer/solution. I could GUESS with the best of them, but you will notice that I let them guess their hearts out before I come on the scene.
 
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