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4600 drawbar bracket woes

B

Brian Allen

Well-known Member
I destroyed this drawbar bracket today while discing with an 11+ foot "Green" disc.
My friend sprayed the field two weeks ago, and worked up the sod field with a chisel plow this morning, I started working with the disc and about 5 hours later found this.
Would it be better to get another used bracket?
I do not want to weld it up.
Are these rivets still available?
Will standard rivets work?
PS The oil is from the leaking remote coupling. (Something else to fix in my spare time!)


7646.jpg
 
Damaged, but I wouldn't say destroyed. Don't know if
the rivets are available - haven't broken the rivets
on mine, just cracked the bracket... so mine is
welded. I'd venture a guess that you will be welding
the other side after a while...it will be weaker
where it bent.
 
I would just take it off the tractor and clean it up then bring it to any reputable shop and have it welded. If it were mine i might not even take it off the tractor. Just grab some 7018 and have at it. Personally I would heat the other side up before bending it back in to place.
That is really an easy fix and welding would do the job just fine.
Have him check the other side too while he has it.
And fix that remote too. Yikes.
 

I would take it off the tractor straiten it and weld it up. Then get some grade 8 bolts and bolt it back together. That will be stronger that the rivets. Also are you letting your drawbar swing when pulling the disk? It is easier on the drawbar if you are.
 
mike
I found that it works better without the pins in the drawbar, it turns much nicer at the headlands.
Brian
 
If you do take it off, maybe use a little Loc-Tite
when you put it back on. I've seen at least 3 of
these come loose. When that happens, the threads in
the tranny housing can get stripped (or cracked!)
Would be worth checking to make sure the bolts are
tight even if you don't take it off.
 
You could use grade 8 bolts in place of the rivets. I'd just weld it... 7018 will work fine. The bracket is only mild steel and nothing exotic about it.
I think I'd keep the bar bolted in the center as well... It may turn better with the bar floating, but it provides that oppertunity for the bar to accelerate against the housing.
Mabey I just hate floating bars...


Rod
 
letting it float will tear the snot out of it!!!!

Sorry, but its true. You need to pin in in position. You literally beat the rivots out of it.
 
And be careful with bolting it back under the tractor! A screw that's 1/8 inch too long, or some grease trapped under it could push a hole into the rearend housing. Sealant will keep it from leaking out, but it could also be the cause of the hydraulic pressure that punctures it in the first place.
 
Thanks for the information guys!
I just got back home from working out of town.
I plan to remove it and after cleaning it up, I'll decide what to do.
I will re-tap all the mounting holes and use Loctite for re-assembly.
Rod, I think you may have the answer to why this happened.
Again, thanks to all.
Brian
 
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