Popped a hose on the 4500 Back Hoe....

Dam, just had to go after the big granite rock that broke out of a ledge next to the driveway!

Extended hoe out, just start to claw down on it and curl in the bucket and POP. Fluid sprayed all over.

So there I was stuck with the hoe fulled extended across the driveway. No other way to get cars in/out.

Got oil pan under dumping fluid.

Took chains and hooked them in the cross holes in the ends of the stabilizers. Managed to push hoe up by retracting boom and curling in bucket. Then was able to hold it up by lowering stabilizers until chains tightened up.
Had to drive it up over nice white stone driveway dumping hydro fluid.

Its parked on its bed of wood chips, (black to hide all the leaks).

I suppose I need to change hose ASAP.

Anyone got the part nbr I need or can I just go with a off the shelf high pressure hose?

Pete
a43736.jpg
 
Bummer. You can probably get a part number for the hose from the CNH online parts site if you know the model number of the hoe, but it's probably better to take the old hose with you when you're looking for a new one.

I recently replaced all the old hoses on my 730 loader, and a few of them were definitely not connected up using the same fittings that were originally supposed to be there. It was easier to just get new hoses made up locally (for the few tricky ones) or to hit TSC and buy the off-the-shelf MPT to MPT hoses and some swivel adaptors to get things connected up.

If you're looking for a great price and you don't need the parts today, check out oilair.com .. they were nearly 10x cheaper on some of the hard-to-find male pipe thread swivels that I needed for the loader.

If you want to get up and running quickly, take that one hose off and find a local shop who can make one for you ASAP.

Hope this helps!
Greg
 
I"ve had to replace four hoses so far on my backhoe. There"s probably another six or eight that look like they"ll be due before too long.

My backhoe is at camp in the middle of farm country so I head down to the local NAPA with the old hose. They make them up as I wait. $10 a foot for the hose plus the cost of the fittings. Seems kind of high but I"m paying for convenience and the ability to get the job done before I go home.

Jack
 
There is a lot of things not quite right on the back hoe. Unfortunately that is the way prior owner fixed things.

Do you have apic of how a "66 4500TLB hoe should be hosed!?

The Napa by me house is lame. To suburban, they don"t carry/do a lot of rural type stuff.

I did get the power washer going, had to drop carb bowl and clean out crap first. Been over a year since I used it.

Cleaned off all the fittings and hoses.

Would like to change both the left and right hose as they look oldest and most others look like they got changed at some point.

Tomorrow I will try and get the bad hose off.

Got some heavy aluminum foil and rubber bands to cover fittings once its off.

Any other tips would be very welcome.

Pete
 
Look around locally, check the yellow pages, etc. Should be able to find someone with a good supply of hydraulic hose and fittings who can crimp them up while you wait. For me it's been around $5 per foot for Gates 2-wire hose plus the cost of fittings, which can be anywhere from a few bucks to over $20 depending on the fitting. The 90deg male pipe swivels on the 730 loader were $22 locally.
 
If your NAPA doesn't do hydraulic hoses, someone else will. If you don't find something under "hydraulics" try "industrial supply" or call up someone that does backhoe or farm work and ask them who does hoses in the area.

Taking the hose with you is the best way to get the right fittings. Most places that are the right type of place will take the old hose, and come back in 5 minutes with a new one made to match. If they need 24 hours, keep shopping - they are sending it out and you're paying markup over the place that actually does the work, which it would be better to deal with directly.
 
Ok, NorthEast Hydraulics in Kittery.

2 fittings, 58" 5/8 3500 lb hose. $107.

I found a tag on old hose.

7705228
13/11/74

Assume that means 11/13/1974?

Had to grind down the cheapo 1 1/8" open end wrench to get it to fit in btw the hose connectors at the bottom of the back hoe valve block.
The hose that popped and one other hose both have yellow spray paint on them which tells me they are both from the same period. At some point in time the 4500 got painted yellow. Looks like that was after 1974.

Going out to put hose on.

Pete
 
Ok, so they are supposed to get routed "inside" the hoe swing area.

Too late now. It is back together they way it was.

I will take/post pics later. The bottom of the swing area on this hoe has a lot of "custom" welding done on it. Might be why these hoses are routed outside.

Pete
 
OK, it is back together for now. No leaks.

Hoe is working.

Do need to correct the hose routing if I can when I change the right side hose. Getting at that hoses connector under the rear deck looks virtually impossible. Looks like I will have to remove 3 or 4 other hose connectors just to get a wrench on it.
Not my idea of fun.

Now I need to take up about 70 feet by 6" path of 1 1/2" white crushed stone covered with hydro fluid and replace it. And wipe all the hydro fluid off of TLB I can then spray it with engine degreaser? and power wash it off again.

Only then will I have completely recovered from this "lack of maintenance" incident.

Pete
 
Steve,

I had 2 of my boys shovel them up. Was about 2 wheel barrels full. Some of the stone was quite soaked. Replaced them with fresh stone. Driveway looks fine.

Today I am going to get a bag of oil dry and mix stone and oil dry in wheel barrel and let it sit for a day. After that I will spray with degreaser and rinse. Leave them spread out in the sun off to the side of driveway. Use them to touch up drive as needed.
Maintaining a stone driveway with steep slopes in Maine is a challenge. Contractor wanting about 10K to pave it all and could not warranty it would not crack or shift.

Pete
 

There are posts here about clearing snow off gravel driveways. interesting methods involving 'shoes' to put on your bucket or blade... do you use any of those?

Good to hear the boys are working and keeping busy!
 
Skip the oil-dry - you'll have to sift it back out.

Grab a box of dishwasher detergent "with enzymes" and put the stone in a wheelbarrow that holds water, if you want to fuss that much. Less work might have been managed by just mixing up a batch of DW Detergent and water in a sprayer and spraying the stone in place - then wait for rain.

Lye would also work, but is rather more hazardous to handle.
 
When the rubber comes off the hose exposing the braiding your on borrowed time with that hose as rust weakens the banding, always cover any scrapes or chaffs with black tape keep the rust at bay. And proper routing is key also.
 
Eck,
Going to try you advise as I agree, how would I get the stone and speedy dry separated.

S&C,
I have not tried shoes and thru experience have come to the conclusion the best thing to do with the stone driveway and snow is just pack down snow by running it over with the tractor. I have ice chains. Then on the slippery or sloped areas I throw on some more stone.
"Plowing" a stone or gravel driveway that is not perfectly level results in spending hours, days in the spring trying to recover stone from the lawn or any where else I piled snow.
Daman,
Yes, I learned the hard way. If cover is off hose change it ASAP. I am looking to replace 3 other back hoe hoses before using the hoe for anything again.
Pete
 
Yea them hoses are not cheap i replaced the two that runs the boom cyl(same as you blew), keep them from rubbing and they'll last a long time,sun plays heck with them too so hopefully your unit is stored inside.
 
(quoted from post at 13:08:30 07/02/11) Yea them hoses are not cheap i replaced the two that runs the boom cyl(same as you blew), keep them from rubbing and they'll last a long time,sun plays heck with them too so hopefully your unit is stored inside.

On my 730 loader, the old main hoses from the controls to the piping for the bucket cylinders, and also the four hoses to/from the lift cylinders had suffered from a lot of rubbing, either against other steel tubing or against the loader frame.

When I re-did those hoses I sleeved them with Gate "hose guard". It wasn't real expensive, something like $1.25 per foot. Supposedly it can minimize damage from rubbing. This is the black nylon mesh stuff you see on a lot of newer machines, but it's not the newer "life guard" stuff they make for line-of-sight hoses. I used the HG-16 to cover my 3/8" and 1/2" hoses.

B090-7277-f.jpg


Only down side I can see with it is it makes it harder to see the condition of the rubber on the hose.
 
I also have the woven nylon jacket over some of the hoses on my BH.
On the last 3 I have replaced, the tech at the hyd hose shop sold me on another product, it is thick plastic strip that is 'coiled' (like electrical flex conduit) that is partially separated. It has a 'memory' and stays tightly wound together. The benefit to the second product is that it can be installed with the hose in place. the drawback is that the sunshine can shine between the wraps a bit.

The nylon jacket blocks the sun, but you have to have the hose off on one end to install it. It also will fray on the ends.
 
If you can double the ends back, it won't fray. ie, cut it 6" longer than needed, poke the last 3" inside itself at each end before applying. I have not tried it with this product (first I've seen of this product) but use something similar on dive regulator hoses and that works.
 
I got the Gates hose guard (HG-16) from oilair.com .. no online sales, just quotes, but they're responsive and had no problems with small orders. Searching for "Gates HG-16" turns it up from several other vendors, and I suspect most hydraulic shops that handle Gates hose and ends would have it.

After cutting the ends, I hit them gently with a flame to melt the ends together. Seems to have mostly checked the fraying. The roll I got looked like it had been cut with a heated knife.
 

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