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4600 front spindle removal

B

Brian Allen

Well-known Member
I am trying to get the LF spindle out of the tube.
I sledged out the RH one - no issues.
The left one stopped after about 3/8" can't seem to get it started moving.
Any ideas on an easy way to get it out? Looks like mud, old grease in the tube, which does not want to budge either. I soaked it all night hoping that might help.
Both spindles are trash, they are well worn with the thread area pretty much none-existent.
The new spindles are ordered.
Bigger hammer????
Brian
 
Yup... Break out the 10 pounder and if that don't work... get your 300 pound friend... Make sure the axle is supported well as close to the tube as possible and get a drift to hold against the center of the pin or you'll mushroom the end... then wail away on it. Other option is to try and press it out but it may be hard to jig up in a press...


Rod
 
Hi Rod
I am beating on it now with a 10 pounder and it moved about 5/8" total.
The spindle is scrap, so I'm beating right where the back wheel bearing sits. I might try grinding the top tapered and try beating on it, as it seems to have stopped moving again.
I am using a piece of 10" apple underneath to support the axle, it is right up to the spindle and there is a couple of pieces of 1/2" flat bar to keep the axle from digging in the wood.
Unfortunately I am working outside and the apple is sinking in the ground
Brian
This is not fun!
HELP!
 
It is now moved "all the way" to 3/4".
I sure could use that 300 pound guy!
I'm quite a few pounds short!
Signed
Worn out in Durham.
 
Did you get it out yet?
I wonder if some heat on the tube wouldn't do it. I would always rather use a rosebud than the 10 lb hammer though sometimes you gotta have both.
Also, I wonder if it could be bent.
I did it on my 4000 this spring and they came out pretty easy.
 
Ultra
You may be right about it being bent, I beat on it and only got it to move an 1 1/4". Taking to the shop where I used to work in the morning, I'll get it out then. I need to make a plan on how to repair the center pivot next.
I'm thinking I'll remove it and build it up with weld and re-work it to fit.
I'll get a few parts while I'm at the shop tomorrow!
Brian
 
Remove the bolster and have it overbored, then install a repair bushing, then a new service bushing.

As far as the spindle goes... you need a simple friend to hold a piece of one inch cold rolled on top of the kingpin end so that you get a direct end hit. Hitting the spindle on the bottom will probably do more to sideload the pin than anything else. It's also possible that either the spindle OR tube is bent. Both tubes were bent on my 4000.... though one needs to remember that my 4000 did a faceplant off a 15' bank and landed on it's nose on a rock beach and rolled arse over kettle... so those spindles and tube took the brunt of that crash.

Rod
 
Rod
I pressed it out today, actually it was basically a non-event. I cut the spindle end off and pressed it out the top, easy as pie! I looked at both pieces, and could not see any noticeable bend etc., (by eye).
I think I'll leave the bolster for another time, as I need the tractor now.
Can I get the stubs (pins) for the axle too? Or, do they get custom built and welded in place?

I hope your 4000 did that stunt without anyone still on it!
Regards
Brian
 
The axle pivot pins don't actually wear much on those tractors from what I see. They're hard... What happens is the bushing is somewhat soft and wears through on top, then the bushing slips out... then it wears the bolster. I guess I'll say ours hasn't worn much on the pins over the years.

As far as the accident goes...she rolled away down the hill after the brake lock slipped off. My uncle had steped off to gather up some hay on the ground and throw it at the baler pickup... and turned around to see the tractor rolling away down the hill.

Rod
 
My experience with a couple 3 cylinder 4000's with loaders for life is similar. The axle trunnion pins don't wear (too badly). The front trunnion cap is available from Sparex if you neeed to replace it.
 
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