10si Terminal #1 needed?

rodm1 · Dec 5, 2010

Will a 3 wire 10si charge without Terminal 1 hooked up? Can Terminal 1 and 2 be pigtailed together and charge the battery?

It seems like I've read or seen them hooked up that way at farm auctions. I assume it wouldn't work as well if at all.

JMOR · Dec 5, 2010

(quoted from post at 20:31:05 12/05/10) Will a 3 wire 10si charge without Terminal 1 hooked up? Can Terminal 1 and 2 be pigtailed together and charge the battery?

It seems like I've read or seen them hooked up that way at farm auctions. I assume it wouldn't work as well if at all.

o you mean 1 & 2 connected together AND to NO other point?

old · Dec 5, 2010

Don't need either one you just need to hook it up to a charger every night when you park it. Ya you need to have the #2 hooked to the big post of the alternator that one turns the VR on and off and you need the #1 hooked up correctly or you do not even turn the alternator on so it will charge. Leave one or both unhooked and all it is is an idler pulley to tight up the fan belt plain and simple

Dell (WA) · Dec 6, 2010

Rod.........you ask......."Will a 3 wire 10si charge without Terminal 1 hooked up?"........NO, its called switched EXCITE for a reason. Unless you EXCITE yer alternator, guess what???? It ain't gonnna charge. Isn't that amazing??? Usually you excite it from yer ignition switch ON terminal thru an IDIOT LITE or you will NOT beable to turn yer engine OFF with the ignition key. Its called feedback and will continue to sparkle yer sparkie coil.

You ask......."Can Terminal 1 and 2 be pigtailed together and charge the battery?"........NO. Terminal #2 is connected by a short pigtail to the BIG battery stud on the back of the alternator to keep from OVERCHARGING yer 12V battery. Without the #2 voltage sense, yer alternator will output 17V or more. Wannna guess what that does to yer battery???

I've already told you what terminal #1 does.

I know 8-ways to convert to 12V and they all work the first time. I know a gazillion ways that don't work, yers is gazillion+1. .......Dell, a 12V advocate for the right reasons

rodm1 · Dec 6, 2010

Thanks, The #2 post is hot only at startup correct? If I don't wont to use a diode in line on #2 post I can add a dash light correct?

Thanks,

JDemaris · Dec 6, 2010

A dash light will work well enough on gas tractors, but won't on some diesels. The light bulb acts as the resistor, and will often let enough power to pass to keep some diesels running - after you shut them off. For that, you have to add a diode or a light-relay.

In theory, a 10SI or 12SI will self-excite if you really spin the heck out of it - since it has bit of residual magnetism to do the job. Not practical, though.

It is supposed to have a three-wire hook-up in applications when the battery is more then 5 feet away from the alternator. Otherwise, two-wire is fine. #1 is for excite. #2 is there to be used as a battery-voltage sensing wire for runs over 5 feet long. On tractors though, it can just be looped to the output post.

rodm1 · Dec 6, 2010

Thanks

old · Dec 6, 2010

Te #2 goes to the big stud on the alternaotr and that is hot all the time. The #1 is the one that has the diode in line with it and goes to the ignition switch. I f you wire it so the #1 is hot all the time you will let the smoke out of the alternator and or the battery or both

rodm1 · Dec 7, 2010

(quoted from post at 18:04:41 12/06/10) Te #2 goes to the big stud on the alternator and that is hot all the time. The #1 is the one that has the diode in line with it and goes to the ignition switch. I f you wire it so the #1 is hot all the time you will let the smoke out of the alternator and or the battery or both

Grate. I will hook it up to power only at startup.

10si Terminal #1 needed?

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