ford 5000 diesel good/bad

what are the things to look at on the ford 5000 diesel before buying. I'm trying to do my research before buying one, and or if there is a better ford tractor in that horsepower range I should consider. Primary use would be hobby farm work: brush hog work, plowing/disk /planting
 
Transmition. Price would be deeply discounted for a Select-O-Speed. 8 x 2 is considered the best by most. 2 versions of the 5000 - Utility and Row Crop. Row crop - Look over the front spindles.
2 engines sizes 233 and 256 cu in. I think you can tell by the freese plugs. Screw in was the 233, press in was the 256. Look at injector pump to see if oil was changed.
Take a picture and let us look it over for you!
Keith
 
pwr steering on early models sucked and no parts are availible. sos is impossible to sell.

otherwise.. look at overall tractor.. engine condition is most important.. tranny and rearend next.. 3 point needs to work correctly. unless your a mechanic, dont buy something worn out!!!


steering and front end...

if everything is sloopy and worn out.. walk away.

better to pay a bit more for a good one then pay $10,000 in repairs for a bad one. good tractors will sell for a few hundred more than bad tractors.
 
some good comments so far.. also be aware there is a 5000 british model.. ( probably some sort of 'major' ) etc.

in general the 5000 was a work horse.. post back with some of the details and we can help you calue it.. remember.. tires aren't cheap.

in general.. a good 5000 diesel is in the 5000$-7000$ range..

soundguy
 
The others have it pretty much covered... I'll add that the Dual Power transmission was available on (I think) '72 and newer models, which would be my 1st choice in transmissions. Hydraulic capacity (gpm/speed) would be better on any newer series (56/6600, 56/6610, etc.), but unless you're planning on putting a loader on it, it's not an issue.
 
The engine, clutch and steering would be my main concerns.
Make sure that there is no oil or black froth in the coolant, no coolant in the oil or other dilution and make sure it starts reasonably quick on it's first cold start. Smoke should clear off in a couple minutes. Make sure the clutch isn't squalking when you let it out at a fast idle in sixth gear. If it does, it's soon due... and listen to what bill said regarding the steering.
Beyond tha just watch the basic stuff that everything works normally, nothing is cracked/broken, etc.

Rod
 
make sure tach and hour meter work properly for peace of mind about accurate hours.

check the injector pump cambox oil if it has an inline pump! No oil, or mostly diesel fuel in pump cambox could indicate serious lack of maintenance and looming injection problems. You better hope the excess diesel fuel is only from a lift pump diaphragm leak.

and make sure the charging system works. Not a huge undertaking to repair, but certainly a bargaining chip. If it is still the lucas system from the factory, you will have to replace regulators regularly even when the generator is in good condition. Upgrade to alternator would be $300 max if you wish to maintain factory tach drive.

make sure Ipto stops turning when lever in off position with no load and engages within a couple seconds when under load. Pretty big deal. huge bargaining chip (around $2000 to have it done including the incidentals they find once inside)

good tractor, just many quirks. They go strong even though they are all worn out at 40 years old, but nothing a little maintenance can't cure.

karl f
ps make sure the 3 point and other hydraulics work as they are supposed to both cold and hot when under load. (important for any tractor)
 
You don't have to replace regulators regularly.. unless you are doing something BAD to the electrical system.

Soundguy
 
Mine the whole instrument cluster has issues, gotta dig into that.

Nice tractor, I think I used it most last year out of the fleet. Runs a tad blue, but a heck of a nice tractor, good size. Mine is the 5200, taller ag version, with the hi/lo speeds, and 2 remotes. Was hoping to find one, never see them for sale around here, finally found it & got it home a couple years ago. Wish dad had bought one 30 years ago, it woulda fit his operation good back then.

--->Paul
 
i should have said something other than "replace regularly."

I was thinking about what i think were your (soundguy's) posts about frustration with lucas regulators and switching to a ford style. However i probably combined other people's posts with yours in my head.

we had major issues with ours for awhile. The charging system was non functional from the time i was born until i was a teenager and decided to spend my own money to fix it.
I ended up going through everything--reman generator, tested the wiring, and I bought a new regulator. It worked for awhile.
after the first 2 regs from newholland quit working at about a year old both times, i opened them up to see what was wrong and the adjustment lock bolts were loose from vibration. Readjust and snug the bolts and they go a long time. (and with 2 i have a spare)
Feels like every year i have to repeat the adjustment but it's probably longer...wish i had locktite handy when i have to do it.
in the grand scheme of things the system has been working since 2000 with "annual" maintenace/adjustment.




karl f
 
For sure, I think the lucas regs are the weaker of the two links when you look at the lucas generators, and the regs.

However.. you can make a ford reg work, or get an aftermarket reg for the lucas gen that works fine. The aftermarket I put on my 5000 is working without flaw since I installed it. My 3000 lucas reg is still working fine after I cleaned it and rebuilt the gen. in the end, I swapped it for another aftermarket just because I redid the gen, and it nevcer hurts to have fresh equipment on both sides. I have since cleaned and tested both the old regs from my 5000 and the 3000 and have them on the shelf, bagged if needed in the future. I also have a spare 12v B circuit reg for a ford diesel ready to go in a pinch. I have 2 ford 6v b circuit regs one is a tsc model, and the other an oem ford I pulled off my NAA on the shelf, cleaned and tested and ready to go. plus a spare starter for the 6v red tiger engines.

soundguy
 
Nah, 'replace regularly' was stated quite correctly. The charging systems on on those tractors were, are and remain, junk.
Give it the Delco and be done of it.

Rod
 

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