3 point lift adjustment

I'm helping my landlord with a 65-75 Ford 4000 tractor.
He has no manual, little cash, and is not internet savvy.
I have no experience with tractors.

I've found some diagrams on the CNH parts site, so I can ID the parts, thanks to this forum.

The story:
First the lift didn't work. We pulled the cover, and the control valve was stuck. Also the control valve link and turnbuckle were loose from the valve(#25 & 26 on the Lift cylinder page). After removing the valve and cleaning it, we reassembled it all.
First it didn't work. Then I pulled the pipe plug to reach the check valve. It's seamed stuck. I played with the check valve spring housing (#43 on the lift cover page) while the engine was running, and got doused with oil. Shut it down, replaced the plug and restarted. The lift worked fine.

Next day he went to use it and no lift again. He pulled it apart again (with out me) and said the turn buckle/link was loose again.

So, I'm going to disassemble the lift cover and clean it all good, the reassemble. I'll also try seating the ball on the check valve.

When I reassemble I want to adjust everything, as I thing something is wrong. The link/turnbuckle for the control valve shouldn't be coming loose.

I think the quadrant not having a lower stop is part of it, but I still don't think it should come loose like it does.

Again, he doesn't have any manuals, nor the money to spend on any.
I've looked and not had any luck finding an adjustment procedure;.

Mr. Dog,
As you may read in the archived posts on this board, there is much written regarding the settings of the internal linkage of the lift mechanism.

Mine wasn't loose, and on trial, I didn't disassemble the linkage (internal). But after a good cleaning and new "0" rings, things worked better.

while it was apart I did check w/New a Holland dealer, another tip from the board, on how much it would cost for them to set the linkage 'on the bench'.
$75.oo was their answer. Now, I did purchase a manual, and it does give some measurements. I was willing to tackle the settings.....only if necessary. I found them very complicated and would need some special tools as well. AND, the manual I have isn't the correct one. So, Not completely understanding the system, and not wanting to pull it all apart again, and not want to break anything internally. If the system didn't work correctly after the new "0" rings, I would have gladly paid $75.oo to have someone that was experienced to set this up....

I do understand not having much to spend too. So please glean from the archives here (that's why they are here) and perhaps you will find just where you may have overlooked something...... like the"0" ring at the 'INTAKE' side of the pump (that is mounted on the bell housing). Or the "0" ring that encompasses the 1/2" tube that protrudes 3/8" vertically through the transmission section and mates to the lift cover, you know, the one that I accendently cut upon re-installation... wish you the best in these times....sl

BTW, when I went to buy the "0" rings to re-seal this, the FORD dealer parts man had to look up each "0" ring individually and retrieve them the same way.... Some were also incorporated in the lift kit, (inexpensive). I am slowly building up a collection of "0" rings, and finding new places to use these as well.

Post back if you will and let us know how you fare!!

A lift cover rebuild kit is available from this site for under $20 with all the necessary O-Rings and some to spare. Well worth the investment.

On my "65 3000 there are two adjustments, one for early and one for later. They show a special tool to get the .2 in adjustment but I just used the depth gauge of a veneer caliper. The adjustment was a bit difficult as it almost ran out of threads.

Before new O-rings and adjustment it would not hold a position no matter what. After everything works great. Took a morning and no special tools needed. Much easier than the Massey Ferguson 390T I did a couple of months earlier.

(quoted from post at 18:08:04 06/28/09) A lift cover rebuild kit is available from this site for under $20 with all the necessary O-Rings and some to spare. Well worth the investment.

Click to expand...

I'm trying to talk him into the new o-rings.
But he also pushing to get it running, yesterday. Hes an older fellow, probably in his late 70s or early 80s (never asked).

On my "65 3000 there are two adjustments, one for early and one for later. They show a special tool to get the .2 in adjustment but I just used the depth gauge of a veneer caliper. The adjustment was a bit difficult as it almost ran out of threads.

Click to expand...

That picture looks exactly like the one I'm working one.

I tried using the adjustments listed here:
http://web.mst.edu/~liou/ME459/Actuators/hydraulic.htm

But when I went to adjust the position rod there wasn't enough thread on the rod to make the adjustment. That's got me thinking I've got the wrong instructions, or was adjusting the wrong places.

For example, is the spring on the positions control rod free or collapsed when in draft control mode?
In other words, in the picture you posted, is that draft control mode or position control mode?


Steve, Any suggestion on the search terms to use or a thread discussing the adjustments?

That link is for the NAA & I am pretty sure that the NAA hydraulics are unique to NAA & are NOT like any other Ford tractor.

What's a [b:5e482e9af8]NAA[/b:5e482e9af8]?

What make you say the adjustment there is for a NAA?
The only info mentioned is [b:5e482e9af8]I&T Shop Service Manual No. FO-13[/b:5e482e9af8]
but I don't know what that manual is for.

This document claims to be for a NAA, and the measurements are different.
http://collectible-stuff.com/Tractor%20Stuff/NAA%20Hyd%20Ctrl%20Adjustment.pdf

Steve,
A while back I posted about changing the hydraulic filter in my '70 4000. I haven't done it yet. You suggested while I was inside to replace some other items(seals?) Were these o-rings the items you were referring to?
Butch

Hi Butch, You asked about 'any other items' while you were in there...'
Butch, I'd have to review that thread to be sure , and I will later on today. However, you really should replace any o rings that are in there. They just cost a little bit, and the time to tear this apart exceeds the cost of the o rings. The lift kit o rings / seals, (for the piston) should be changed out too. Don't forget to break the glaze on the cylinder, and look for cracks in the bore. It's amazing how little of distortion is required for an o ring to fail!

On other threads (N tractors i think) the discussion is about the o ring on one of the valves that is internal and how the factory ring should be used.
I'll get back to you Butch.

ST Dog,
You asked, "Steve, Any suggestion on the search terms to use or a thread discussing the adjustments?" No, I don't, sorry.

One of the things I have done is to soak neoprene gaskets and o rings in MEK, Methyl ethyl Ketone. this will swell them a bit.

...sl

(quoted from post at 00:36:09 06/29/09) What's a [b:125529413f]NAA[/b:125529413f]?

What make you say the adjustment there is for a NAA?
The only info mentioned is [b:125529413f]I&T Shop Service Manual No. FO-13[/b:125529413f]
but I don't know what that manual is for.

This document claims to be for a NAA, and the measurements are different.
http://collectible-stuff.com/Tractor%20Stuff/NAA%20Hyd%20Ctrl%20Adjustment.pdf

Click to expand...

What makes me say NAA? In the text of that article it mentions three names/numbers of tractors. NAA, Jubilee (same), and hundred series.
I do not recognize FO-13.

OK, so I found the adjustments in the manual I found through the
Ohio Public Library Information Network (OPLIN.org) and EBSCO databases.

Took a while because the series 4000 tractor is near the bottom of the list, and I was looking at the Model 4xxx sections.


So, got it adjust and back together Tuesday. He just told me it worked for 2 hours then stuck in the up position.

Any thoughts? Nothing in the manual discussed it not wanting to come down.

I don't quite understand how the "unloader" valve functions, but I was not able to clean it as I don't have access to a slide hammer that I could use to get it out (need a fine thread bolt to fit the plug and all the hammers I have access too have a spiral tip for auto body dent work.

Another Item of not is the ball in the check valve stays stuck i the seat when the rest of the valve is removed. Could that cause the issue (ie lift won't lower)?

He talked to a guy he know that used to work on tractors, and that guy suggested that the lift is overheating from the control lever being pulled high, and that a stop on the lever will prevent this.

Sounds suspicious, so I;m asking the experts here,