Ford NAA - 12 Volt relay switch

GregC29

New User
My 54 Ford NAA has been converted to a 12 volt system, however,
the relay switch to the starter is a 6 volt. It has burned out and I
need to replace it with a 12 volt switch. My problem, the 12 volt
switch has two post and the 6 volt has only one, that leads to the
starter switch. On the 12 volt, where does the second post lead?
 
Most folks just put on another 6-Volt unit. They usually live a long life even on 12-Volts. Your's may have simply worn out.

To use a 12-Volt solenoid with 2 small terminals, you need the correct unit which has BOTH ends of the winding brought out as the two small terminals.

A "generic modern Ford fender-mount" solenoid" WILL NOT WORK here, as even though it has the two small terminals, it is not connected properly internally for this application.

You need an "isolated base relay", as shown here:

<img src = "http://ndtc3500.stellarnet.com/~blweltin/Bob/8N4-wire%20solenoid.jpg">

Using the solenoid shown, or an exact equivalent, and connecting the one small terminal to the "switched" side of the ignition switch will allow the tranny-top neutral safety start switch to remain functional, PLUS as an added safety feature the ignition key switch must be "ON" before the engine will even crank over.
 
Greg;

To add to what Bob has told you, make sure you have the correct relay as auto relays are different than the ones used on early tractors. Here's a part number and an explanation courtesy of John in La.

Standard Electic Part # SS580. The parts folks can cross referene this number for you.
Starter Relay Explained
 
Greg you have several options.......

Replace your relay with the 6v version because it will work.

Replace your relay with the correct 12v relay and wire the other small post to your key post that has power only with the key on. This will allow your tractor to only be cranked with the key on.
As Glen said ask for Standard Electric Part # SS580 or ask for a original relay off a Ford 801 with a diesel engine.

Replace your relay with the correct 12v relay and run a jumper wire from the relay large post where the battery hooks to the small relay post.
 
By switch, do you mean the button on the transmission cover?
Get the solenoid for the 801 series diesel. It is 12 volt. The Solenoid has to be the isolated ground as shown in Bob's sketch. Using any other type of solenoid is dangerous.
Do it right if you are going to do it, or you will always be replacing it.
 
Please see my set up. It won't start, it just clicks, like an electric shock. Do I have this set-up correctly?
r3883.jpg
 
Hi Greg;

It looks like you went with the 3 post relay. Correct me if I'm not seeing the 4th post. Here's a wiring diagram courtesy of John in La.

Are you saying the black wire on the small post goes to the ignition switch or the starter button on the trans top? If it is correctly wired I'd do the following. Check the battery to make sure it is good and fully charged. Then check all the connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Make sure the cables don't have some hidden corrosion. Make sure you have a good ground. Let us know what you find.
Wiring diagram
 
The small wire goes to the starter button on the trans not the ignition but since you say it clicks I assume you have it labled wrong rather than hooked up wrong.
A new relay that just clicks leads me to believe you have a bad connection somewhere or a weak battery.

Check to make sure the battery is charged; and wire conections are good (especially where the ground hooks to the frame) and post back with your findings. If that does not work we can then take it one piece at a time till we find the problem.
 

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