Hydraulics not go or stay down

My Ferguson TO-35 rear 3Pt Hitch Hydraulics will not go down and stay down, unless of course I put the clutch all the way down, or idle the engine vey low. This was a progressive problem. And they are not very strong when I wanted the mold board plow to come up when in ground - had to rev the engine.

Any ideas as to problem and fix, greatly appreiciated?

Thanks.
-WaltZ

Visit: http://IHartHarvest.dyndns.org
 
Hello, The last time I had a problem like that I found that I had bumped the small control beside the main one, put it back where it was, worked fine.-ed
 
(quoted from post at 06:22:27 05/14/12) Hello, The last time I had a problem like that I found that I had bumped the small control beside the main one, put it back where it was, worked fine.-ed

Yeah...that's not the problem, all controls are DOWN - Draft, Range interlock, and Lift.

Happens with PTO On or Off, or in Ground Drive also.

But thanks for the thought.
 
From your description it would appear to be that the Control Valve is sticking, that would be the cause of the hydraulics not dropping, but the lack of power to lift your plow is something else. Control Valve first, remove the right side round inspection port on the side below the seat. You will see the controls hanging down from the top, these are attached to the Control levers on the Quadrant. There is another Lever coming up out of the Oil this is rubbing on the end of these two levers that hang down. With the engine running at a fast idle,put the Hand Control Levers all the way down the Quadrant, now use a screwdriver and move the lever (coming out of the Oil) forwards a couple of times, the Lever is spring loaded and should return to pressing on the two levers hanging down from the top. The implement should lift and lower as you do this. If this works OK, you can now try lifting and lowering with the POSITION CONTROL lever, again it should lift and lower with this Lever. The problem with a lack of power in the system can be anything, it maybe wear or just a leak. If you email me direct I will send you the information that you need to check for a leak, when you find the leak you can tell me were it is and then I can send you the information you need to repair it. When you test the levers in the oil, check to see if the Lever that comes up out of the oil JUST touches the two levers hanging down without any free play between them or any pressure being applied to the top levers. DON'T attempt to alter the adjustment you need a bit more info for that, but tell me what you find and then I can send what you need to adjust it.Just a thought with this, when you are trying to lift and lower as it is now, are you lifting with the Position Control lever and do you have the Draft lever at least 1/3 down the Quadrant. If you have the Draft Lever at the top of the Quadrant that will prevent the implement from lowering.You lift and lower with the Position Control and set the depth of the plow with the Draft Lever, the Levers should NEVER be both at the top together as it would blow the safety valve and cause it to wear, which would reduce the pressure and that is maybe why there is no power in the hydraulics.Just let me know what you find and I will respond.John(UK)[email protected]
 
Hi!, I went out and looked at mine and the small control is midrange of the travel,I have played with it in the past, if you move the small one to just the right place the big control will work backwards. Hope this helps. John is a wizzard on this hitch, he will get tuned up -ed
 
Definitely sounds like a leak internally as putting the clutch down
may stop the pump rotating but the lift should still hold up. This
leak could be as simple as a blown 'O' ring on the stack pipe or a
leakage past the piston rings or maybe even the control valve.
Sam
 
RE: [John; You will see the controls hanging down from the top, these are attached to the Control levers on the Quadrant. There is another Lever coming up out of the Oil this is rubbing on the end of these two levers that hang down. With the engine running at a fast idle,put the Hand Control Levers all the way down the Quadrant, now use a screwdriver and move the lever (coming out of the Oil) forwards a couple of times, the Lever is spring loaded and should return to pressing on the two levers hanging down from the top. The implement should lift and lower as you do this. If this works OK, you can now try lifting and lowering with the POSITION CONTROL lever, again it should lift and lower with this Lever.]

SEEING THIS WITH THE COVER OFF, AND DOING AS INSTRUCTED: THE LEVER COMING OUT OF THE OIL WILL MOVE FORWARD WITH THE SCREW DRIVER WHEN THE QUAD LEVERS ARE DOWN - IT DOES NOT RETURN IN EITHER DIRECTION BUT IS FREE AND IDLE. AFTER MOVING THIS 'OUT OF OIL' ARM SEVERAL TIMES FRONT AND BACK AS WELL FROM ITS ORIGINAL STANDING POINT AS BACK, TO FORWARD (THERE APPEARS TO BE NO SPRING LOADING IT) - THE LIFT ARMS STAY UP EVEN IF I STAND ON THEM AND WILL NOT GO DOWN UNLESS THE TRACTOR IS OFF OR CLUTCH IS PRESSED DOWN TO FLOOR.

WHATS NEXT?
 
Ohtay - Twern't an easy job, for NEVER hav'n done such a thing before, but thanks to your Assist; replaced the Hydraulic Pump in the Ferguson TO-35 Tractor. It was difficult, but I got away with it, didn't break anything and only stuck my little finger with a small securing wire end. Really expected I'd mash something bad with the weights of stuff involved.

[b:2dc4100fb7]Day One Last Week:[/b:2dc4100fb7] Got the cover off with come-a-long off beam from ceiling, trans drives disassembled inside, pulled PTO Shaft, shifted the gear drives each LOW moving stuff in there forward, and the Hydro Pump out. Verified PN and was declared to be "old style pump". Ordered new style replacement pump from Helm's Farm Machinery, LLP, for $365 and complete Gasket Set with Trans Hydro Oil Line O-Rings $10.

[b:2dc4100fb7]Day 2 this week today:[/b:2dc4100fb7] Got the new pump back in with some difficulty, and getting pump shaft aligned with forward shaft - was a scary event overall never having done such a thing. Put everything back together with new gaskets including heavy cover ("hand torqued bolts") with come-a-long off cieling beam - no extra parts or questions. Filled the pump trans oil, went in for lunch, came out fired it up, and the thing worked like it was supposed to, when new! Really fast response now and Draft works like I remember in my young man-boy operator days on Fergusons.

Went up to my equipment yard and attached a heavy Ford 2B Plow. Hydraulics operated very well!

Should be able to lift up and pull the arse out of a canary with it now!!! }8->}

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[b:2dc4100fb7]WHAT'S THE INTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS IF ANY TO THE NEW INSTALLATION SETUP?[/b:2dc4100fb7]

Thanks!
-WaltZ
 

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