Few TO30 questions

kaferhaus · Aug 4, 2011

1. How do I identify which carb I have? I'm sure it's going to need rebuilding

2. Tractor has been converted to 12V neg ground with a Delco Alternator. The pulley is very rusty and I need to replace it. Any idea how to ID the alternator to make sure I get the right pulley?

3. The exhaust pipe is loose where it connects to the manifold. I've ordered a new clamp but is there a donut gasket supposed to be there?

4. Best place to find a spin on oil filter adapter? I'd rather not spill so much oil every change.

5. Any tips on R&R the rear wheels by yourself? obviously large and heavy, I'm thinking there must be a way to do it by yourself

6. PTO overrun clutch... I found one that also adapts the 1.125" shaft to 1.375" Wouldn't this kill two birds with one stone? And be cheaper than buying a new shaft?

7. The front wheel track is very wide at 6ft. I see there are numerous holes in the bars that make up the front end. I assume the track can be narrowed by changing the bolt positions?

I've used the search function but could not find the answers to these questions and I'm sure I'll have more.... :shock:

Tom H. · Aug 4, 2011

I think I can answer a few of these as I have done some of these myself.

Carb should be a Marvel Schebler TSX 458

Exhaust clamps should help and there is no doughnut.

Rear wheels are not too bad to do by yourself bulky and heavy as you said

I have a overrun clutch that converts the same way and kept my original shaft.

The front wheels are moved in and out using the holes in the axles. I believe there are a few posts out there. I think the positioning should be even with the center of the rear wheels.

Please keep us posted.

Goog luck

Richard L · Aug 4, 2011

What I will add to Toms reply is if the wheels have liquid in them they are then much much heavier than without. So if you do not have a chain fall to help secure the wheels as you R&R get some help. It is to much for one person if it should start to get away. If no liquid in them I feel one person can handle one wheel. Be safe.

Jerry/MT · Aug 4, 2011

AS A new TO-30 owner with lots of questions, the best advice i can give you is to buy theFerguson Shop Manual, the Parts Manual and the TO-30 Operators Manual. You can probably find them on the web for a total of about $50.They have systems descriptions to tell you how everything is supposed to work, maintenance and repair insructions, exploded views of the major parts, etc. Stay away from the IT manuals They are for more experienced people and are not comprehensive.

Then check the archives on this site because most of your questions have been asked before and answered. Finally don"t hesitate to post your questions here. There"s a bazillion years of experience just waiting to help you with getting and keeping your Ferguson running.

Welcome aboard!

kaferhaus · Aug 4, 2011

I have the shop manual, parts manual is on the way and soon as I find a owners manual that's not absurdly priced I'll be buying that.

this is a great site but the search function returns too many hits that are not really related to the search. And I've changed the keywords, used quotations to try and limit the extraneous results to no avail.

Spent hours on here last night trying to find the answers to a few of the questions in this post without any meaningful results.

the tractor is now running, which of course has led to the discovery of other issues.... both rear axle seals are leaking so the brakes are toast, bad front bearing in the GM alternator etc. etc....

Seems this is always the way it works..... :roll:

at least I'll be able to move it out of the way (out of the wife's line of sight...LOL until I find the answers and get on with making the thing functional.

jon corbett · Aug 4, 2011

i dont understand what u r doing with the rear wheels.

kaferhaus · Aug 4, 2011

(quoted from post at 17:15:26 08/04/11) i dont understand what u r doing with the rear wheels.

Well.... to change the axle seals and replace the brakes the wheels have to come off....

Bob (Aust) · Aug 5, 2011

You can change the front wheel track by changing the front axle bolt positions or reversing the front wheel. I don't have the front axle position track widths, but here is the rear wheel position track widths:

Bob in Oz

kaferhaus · Aug 5, 2011

(quoted from post at 15:06:20 08/05/11) You can change the front wheel track by changing the front axle bolt positions or reversing the front wheel. I don't have the front axle position track widths, but here is the rear wheel position track widths:

Bob in Oz

I don't see how the rear track could be adjusted without wheel spacers....

I had figured out that I can move the front axles in and out, but it seems you'd have to adjust the track/torsion rods also and I see no obvious provision for doing so.

Toora Stephen · Aug 7, 2011

I have moved both the rear and front wheels much wider on my TED20. It really is not a difficult job. I did it all by myself (with the help of a somewhat large jack). Removing some of the rusted-on hub bolts can be a bit tricky, as can lining up the rear wheels to put them back on, but that's about all.

All the details you really need are in the manual and the diagram that Bob posted, but let me know if you want any specific information and I'll try to provide it.

- TS

Grits · Aug 7, 2011

Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com) has some reasonably priced parts for external "remote" oil filters (1/2" NPTF ports in and out, takes a standard Fram filter); they also have spin-on adapters (screws on like a filter and has pipe fittings to take the oil to the remote filter unit and return.

Few TO30 questions

kaferhaus

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Tom H.

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Richard L

Well-known Member

Jerry/MT

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kaferhaus

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jon corbett

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kaferhaus

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Bob (Aust)

Well-known Member

kaferhaus

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Toora Stephen

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Grits

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