FOR semlin.....and Jerry/MT

[b:1de702c4bc][i:1de702c4bc]semlin;
I'm the goofy FORD guy, that Jerry told ya about!!!! Yes, I work on carb's, specifically, M/S TSX carb's for the Ford guys on the YT 9N,2N,8N forum.
Since you will not come over there, I decided to make a "House call", just for you. :lol:
This first picture,(I talk with them)....shows how the choke plate and the flapper spring is laid into the choke area of an M/S carb. I've seen them laid in....upsidedown, and backwards. You will note that there is a slot in the middle of the choke rod. The choke plate fits snugly into that slot. then the flapper fits over the back of the rod, held in place by the flapper spring. CLEAR as mudd!!!! right?????? These are to be assembled, before incerting the plate into the choke housing slot.
Here's yer pic.:

This next pic., is a cut-away veiw of an M/S TSX carb. This will show ya, all the passages and jets, and places that MUST be clear of ALL debrie, and gunk.:

When I do a complete overhaul of this type of carb. I soak the carb. in a can of carb. cleaner, for at least 2 days, before I attempt to blow out all those little hiddie-holes, with about 80 lbs of air through a rubber tipped air nozzel. DO NOT BLOW AIR into a carb. until it has been fully dismantled!!!!!!!!!!!! :roll: You prob. will be buying a new carb.!!!!!!

Hope this will help ya in some small way.....The house call is over....and I'm going home!!!! :shock: :? :lol:

Gary
YT alias: GB in MT 8) [/i:1de702c4bc][/b:1de702c4bc]

gary, thanks very much for the house call! i have headed over to the ford board and posted more detail. basically, your photo makes me believe i am missing the economizer jet completely (i have an empty shaft). i have also posted photos of the problem with the choke door. any help you can offer is appreciated if you have time!

[b:3fe6213a7a][i:3fe6213a7a]
I posted a reply on the other forum, about working here and not getting this scattered around two dif. forums.
I need another pic.from you , of the side veiw of the carb., and choke lever.
This pic. you posted, shows that, the plate is in correctly, but looks also like some one forced it in at the wrong angle. The plate top should be facing inward, and the bottom should be outward. It appears to be the opossite. Letting me see the lever spring, will determine how it was put in there.

As to the economizer jet......I would say put one in there. Try to find a kit with the jets in it, and tryto use the jet that has an orriface of 0.046. The econ. jet is a fixed in line metering jet and will have no adjusting screw.
All M/S TSX carb's, floats are set to 1/4" from the gasket. Use this to set up all the settings and you will be close to being right on.: Print this out and keep it for future referance.:

This should keep ya busy for awhile, and I will check back from time to time to see the pic. I ask for!!!
HTH

Gary [/i:3fe6213a7a][/b:3fe6213a7a]

i would get a 1/4 inch drill bit to set the float. most of the old carb kits used to say use a drill bit to measure the distance.

it occurs to me that maybe this tractor was parked years ago after somebody made a hash of rebuilding the carb. it definitely had some carb problems when it was parked as the sump was full of gas and the carb was full of whatever this stuff used to be. this is the before shot!

thanks john. i will try that. i have one on my bench right beside where i work on the carb and it never occured to me.

That crud in the fuel bowl probably came from the fuel tank. There have been instances where so much crud was in the carb fuel bowl that the float would not drop.

[b:2fe4b297e2][i:2fe4b297e2]
OK, that is what I needed to see!!!
Discounting the fact that the hookup is dif., this will show ya how the choke lever is in it's right position, with the lever spring hooked up right, and the lever resting on the stop bar. This the way it looks when the choke is fully open:

AND, this is what you should see from the back, as to where and how the choke looks in the full open position:

Note how the spring is latched over the choke lever!!!!

Now to get ya set up with what you need for parts!!!!!
I have in stock a new spring for the lever...
A new choke flap spring.....
And a used choke flap and plate(if needed)
Also an economizer jet..... 0.046
At the bottom of this reply....you will see an email button. Press that and send me an email, with your needs for parts....and your mailing address.
I will then send you the parts, in an envelope, via the mail. This is not a buis. mailing, so it should not have to get the tarrif costs.
This is what I would do for anyone needing the help, and not as a buis. venture!!!!!!!
That is just the way I do things, and payment for the parts is up to you. I always have spare parts laying around for spec.ocations.!!! :lol: :lol:

I'll be waiting for yer reply. Don't wait too long.....I gotta go get in the shower....It has only been about 6mos' since my last one!!!! :shock: :lol:

Gary :wink:
[/i:2fe4b297e2][/b:2fe4b297e2]

(quoted from post at 12:56:27 06/19/09) That crud in the fuel bowl probably came from the fuel tank. There have been instances where so much crud was in the carb fuel bowl that the float would not drop.

Click to expand...

b:85af006159][i:85af006159]

Jerry;
Member' what I told ya in my last email...???...Looks and sounds like someone just walked away from that TE20, and left the gas turned on???????????? YA Hooooo!!!!!! 8 1/2 yrs!!! YIKES!!!! :lol: :shock:



Gary :roll: [/i:85af006159][/b:85af006159]

Gary, thanks very much. Sold!! only problem is there is no email link in your reply, or at least i can"t find one in modern or classic mode. I have included my email in this post.

[b:2c7425a076][i:2c7425a076]

You should see the email button at the bottom of this reply, right beside the Profile, and PM button.Just push that and the email box should pop up with my email addy in the send to area.

Gary [/i:2c7425a076][/b:2c7425a076][b:2c7425a076][i:2c7425a076] I'm using the modern side!!!![/i:2c7425a076][/b:2c7425a076]

Still no email!!! Soooo, I sent you one with MY addy.

Gary

[b:8b47e00524][i:8b47e00524]

Thanks to all of you guys on the forum, for letting me trash the place.
I really enjoyed it.
Think he should be OK now as soon as he gets the parts, soooooo, you can have your forum back.

Gary (GB in MT.) :roll: Thanks again!!!!!GB[/i:8b47e00524][/b:8b47e00524]

gary you can stop by any time as far as i am concerned. thanks again.

well, i got the new parts from gary in the mail and installed them according to gary's photo and my diagram. kudos to gary as the parts were perfect. I am sure it is right. the choke now closes against the spring and wants to open.

put it on the tractor and turned it over with no choke, nothing. applied full choke and full throttle and it fired up and ran great for about twenty seconds leaving the choke on. then it stalled out (no sputtering or rpm change - just abruptly stopped running). nothing would start it again. disassembled the carb and checked it. bowl was 2/3 full of gas and there was a small dribble of gas down into the choke intake when it stalled. float adjustment seems right. put it back on and it would not start.

i am using a motorcycle gas tank for fuel supply with fresh gas so i know that is not the issue. checked the spark and it is strong. plugs are bone dry and clear.

i don't know. it still has the original idle jet and power mix screw. they look fine to me but maybe they are not.

maybe it has a bad head gasket or cracked block that lets coolant in as soon as the engine starts to warm up.?

does anyone have any suggestions?

[b:2c17aeede8][i:2c17aeede8]
semlin;
I got yer email, and here I am. I just re-read your whole post, just to refresh my memory.
I may have an answer to yer ???, but you ain't gonna like it.
I think you missed something when you cleaned the carb. out. Re-read the part where I told you, ALL the little passages MUST be CLEAN. Print out the pic. of the carb....side veiw... take the carb. completely apart, so you can get to the little holes and passages.....take a 22ga. wire and stick it in and out of all the little passages, and then a 20ga. wire through all the bigger jet passages. AS you are doing this....shoot some penitrating fluid, with the little straw in those holes, until it oozes out the other end of the holes. Then take an air hose with a rubber tip, and blow about 80-90- lbs. of air through them. BOTH WAYS.
From the looks of how that carb. was in your pic.,....You are gonna be at it for about 2-3 days to get them all clean.

DO NOT mess with anything on yer engine. If the engine ran good for even 20-40 seconds, then I would say the only thing wrong now,,is the carb. Get that carb. cleaned out good , and I'll bet the engine will run.
Stop worrying about head gaskets, and other stuff till you get the carb. workin.
This way you will not be chaseing yer tail around, replacing/fixin' things that don't need fixin'.
BTW: Now that your sparkplugs have been fowled, take them out and clean them or replace them with new ones. Save/clean the other sparkies, to have on hand for another time.

Keep me posted here. I'll be checkin in from time to time.

Gary HTH[/i:2c17aeede8][/b:2c17aeede8]

gary

thanks. i will try again. one thing i have not done is to remove the throttle body venturi tube. it shows that it comes apart is some diagrams i have seen but i was concerned whether it was press fit and would not go back in. should i yank it out and, if so, how?

[b:e3fb146b06][i:e3fb146b06]
NO, do not try to take the venturi out. Just take a rag with some carb cleaner on your finger, and clean it out. YES those venturi are pressed in. You will prob. end up bending or messing it up trying to get it out. All the venturi does is to make a smooth passage through/into the throttle body.
Should be brass and smooth.

Keep me posted. I'll be watching.

Gary 8) [/i:e3fb146b06][/b:e3fb146b06]

hey gerry, she runs! thanks for sticking with me. i have no idea what i cleared out of there but i soaked it in methyl hydrate then blew it out about twenty times and in the end something somewhere must have given out. my best guess is that it was something in the nozzle.

i drove her around the yard tonight a few times. she sounds great. little bit of valve clatter and about 25 psi on the oil pressure gauge but it sounds like music to me.

many thanks to all on this board who have helped!

(quoted from post at 00:20:23 07/06/09) hey gerry, she runs! thanks for sticking with me. i have no idea what i cleared out of there but i soaked it in methyl hydrate then blew it out about twenty times and in the end something somewhere must have given out. my best guess is that it was something in the nozzle.

i drove her around the yard tonight a few times. she sounds great. little bit of valve clatter and about 25 psi on the oil pressure gauge but it sounds like music to me.

many thanks to all on this board who have helped!

Click to expand...

b:fe863d64b4][i:fe863d64b4]
semlin;
ALL RIGHT.....good for you, and glad ya got it runnin'.
Just remember....soaking the carb., just loosens up the gunk, the wire cleaning on the passages, breaks the hard stuff loose, and the air through-out the carb......blows it away.
Well....my job is over....Now you will have to get advice from the guys HERE to get it running smooth, as I have not had any schoolin' on the Fergie' engines!!!!!
One of thease days, I'm gonna have to go over the Mt., to Jerry/MT's place....and have him teach me something about Fergies. :lol: 8) :lol:

Ya follow instructions pretty good!!!
Happy for you!!!!!!!!!!!!! 8)

You know how to get ahold of me if ya ever are in need, for something else!!!

Gary ( that FORD guy)
[/i:fe863d64b4][/b:fe863d64b4]

Hello, I'm having the exact same problem with a TO 20 with a TSX 458.

I rebuilt the tractor about 4 years ago, including the Carb. the thing has been running fine until a couple of weeks ago.

While mowing, it quit, no gas, so I replaced the inline filter, cleared the gas line and have a nice trickle to the carb.

Then I went into the carb, measured the float level with a clear tube, correct level. Ran wires through all the tubes, jets, etc. nothing clogging anything.

The only thing I could find was the needle which lets gas into the bowl when the floats are down, seemed to be sticking, rebuilt the carb, including needles and jets.

The thing ran, but ran worst not developing full power. Put the old needles back in, some improvement.

However, the tractor still seems to be either starved for gas, or running far too rich. I've adjusted the needle valves to no avail and had the carb apart now about a dozen times.

Everything looks good, air passes all the ports, but the sound of the engine and power are not correct, in addition to not developing full power under load. In addition, it will still just quit, just like turning the key off, however wait a few seconds and it will start and run.

This "quitting" for no reason only happens when the tractor has been running for awhile and is hot. Almost like a vapor lock.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

btw I also replace the plugs, points condenser and adjusted the timing. No help, the timing was a little off, dwell is correct. Also check the gas cap to make sure the vents were not clogged. Clear and passing air.

Thanks for your time

Many Thanks to GB in MT. Tractor Guru aka the carburetor whisperer!!!

If you have a problem with any of these MS carburetors (mine is a TSX 458) He is the MAN.

I've worked on engines all my life, I know a fair amount about carburetors, but this one had me stumped.
Gary cleared it up in about 15 minutes.

Thanks again Gary!!!!! (aka the carburetor whisperer!!!!)

(didn't mean to double post, evidently there is a difference between classic and modern view on these forums....)