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3 point hitch lower pivot stud

1

10fingers

Member
I have reviewed my Ferguson shop manual on the TO30 and don't see the removal process to change out the lower stud that acts as a pivot point for the 3 point hitch. Please don't tell me I need to remove the wheel and trumpet to access this. There must be another way?
 
If one or both pins get loose they should be replaced immediately so they do not “wallow out” the hole in the axle housing. If the holes get “wallowed out” you can never again keep the pins tight. You can replace both the left and right side pins by first removing the left side axle housing which will give you access to the nut on the left pin. To access the nut for the right side pin you to must then lift the ring gear and ring gear carrier from the rear center housing. By working through the center housing you can get to the nut.
The pins are tapered and sometimes it takes a pretty hard kick with a big hammer to unseat them.

Pins for the TE/TO-20, TO-30/35, F-40 and MH/MF 50 are the same (181 229 M1).

(From Big Dean's Tool Box, Issue 28 of Ferguson Furrows Magazine.)
 
(quoted from post at 22:08:35 12/17/08) Nope, not unless you are that famed proctologist and can repair them thru the tailpipe!
Click to expand...

OK so I remove the tires then each axle trumpet and have access to each stud. Sounds easy enogh. Now I've removed a few tires in my day however not wet ones. I'm thinking each one must be about 200lbs plus. Safety issues here would be??? How best to remove them? I can see one rolling off and taking out a wall in my shop.
 
As for your question about removing the wheel and tire... if the tire has fluid, it will weigh considerably more than the 200 lbs you estimated, more like twice that or more. You can remove it by yourself if you are careful. Just keep it upright and lean it against something solid for the duration and don't let pets or children interfere in any way. When replacing these heavy wheels I like to put a piece of stiff vinyl under the spot where it will be lifted so I can slide it slightly to adjust to the lugs as I'm trying to mount it. The tire won't budge trying to slide it on a concrete floor by yourself, but with vinyl or something slick under it you can move it just enough....
 
This is a tip I got from the Irish bloks (Sam Niel) when they coached us on the Ferguson Tractor dissassembly and rebuild demonstration at the Ferguson Expo last summer.

Remove the tires first with the tractor well supported, then only remove the left side axel and axel housing. Then remove the Differential gear. The right side axel will support it as you remove it. Becareful as it weighs "40 stone" i.e. real heavy. After the gear is out, only then remove the right side axel. If you do not leave the right side on then the gear can drop down in the case and is the pits to get out.

Re-assemble in reverse order. Put in the right side axel first to have a support as you insert the gear.

This whole job is not that hard just take your time.

Jeff
 
Great info Jeff-oh and the rest of you thanks, this really helps. Lot more confident now and will go ahead with the process. I like the plastic under the wheel trick. Sorry I missed the Fergy Tractor Expo lessons on repair processes. That kind of info those guys show is invaluable. Thats where you learn all the tricks. PS: saw one of those 3 point self lifting tractor jacks that lift the tractor up in the air. Is this worth looking into?
 
Thanks Jeff-oh for the offer. Got my parts in the mail not long ago. Tractor dealers up here in Canada would not order any parts for me. No money in it they said. I'm more than happy to spend my cash south of the border. Good for who ever is my supplier because you always end up buying more than one item at a time. In fact it ends up being a few hundred dollars per purchase.
 
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