Questions about my TEA20

Hi everyone,

I finally got my TEA20 running again today!

Now I have a few questions.

[b:0ea8810031]1 - S[/b:0ea8810031]ince replacing the part of the throttle linkage shown in the first picture below, the tractor idles at much higher revs. This was much more noticeable when the engine was warm. I assume the throttle is not closing all the way. When I fitted this part, I thought I had fitted it in such a way that the throttle was fully closed with the lever fully upwards. Is there a special technique to doing this? Is it possible the clamp has slipped on the rod? Any tips would be appreciated.

[b:0ea8810031]2 - T[/b:0ea8810031]he fan belt is slipping. I bought a fan belt on ebay for a TEA20, and found it to be at least 2" too long. I was told that this was because I have converted to an alternator. I fitted a fan belt from a Volvo 240 just to get it going, but as I suspected, it is slipping. Where can I buy a suitable fan belt?

[b:0ea8810031]3 - T[/b:0ea8810031]he starter motor is completely dead now... at least I think it's the motor that is the problem. For a while now, it would crank, then the starter would cut out, then cut back in, etc. A few times today it did that, then stopped working completely. A while back I also saw smoke coming off the starter while cranking for less than 5 seconds. How difficult would it be to wire up an alternative circuit to test if it's the starter or the switch that is causing the problem?

Hi Dauntless.
I'm not real familiar with the TEA, but do you not have an idle speed adjustment screw that closes the throttle when turned out? Maybe a stronger spring is needed to pull the throttle closed?
As for the fan belt, I replaced the generator on my 35 with an alternator, and of course I needed a new belt. I took a cloth tape measure, like is used in a clothing store or by a tailor and measured around the pulleys at the bottom of them. You could use a string, then measure that. I also measured the width of the top of the pulleys, and the depth, and went shopping.
Luckily I was able to get a good fitting belt from Walmart. They had a tool there that measures belt length. You might need to go to a farm equipment parts dealer, or an industrial supply shop.
As for your starter, if it was smoking while cranking the engine over, I would take it to a place that specializes in starters and have it tested and rebuilt if needed.
Did it smoke before your repairs? Did you rebuild the engine? Maybe the engine is stiff if you rebuilt it, and the starter was having trouble spinning it.
That's my 2 cents.

I'm not real familiar with the TEA, but do you not have an idle speed adjustment screw that closes the throttle when turned out? Maybe a stronger spring is needed to pull the throttle closed?

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here probably is an idle speed screw, however as far as I know, I haven't made any adjustments to it, so it should be some other problem. It idled just fine before I did the work.

As for the fan belt, I replaced the generator on my 35 with an alternator, and of course I needed a new belt. I took a cloth tape measure, like is used in a clothing store or by a tailor and measured around the pulleys at the bottom of them. You could use a string, then measure that. I also measured the width of the top of the pulleys, and the depth, and went shopping.
Luckily I was able to get a good fitting belt from Walmart. They had a tool there that measures belt length. You might need to go to a farm equipment parts dealer, or an industrial supply shop.

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K thanks for that. I have measured already and know I need a belt at least 2" shorter than the one I have. I guess I will just have to try some more.

As for your starter, if it was smoking while cranking the engine over, I would take it to a place that specializes in starters and have it tested and rebuilt if needed.

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ep I have already got a quote for that, but I'm not sure if the starter is the only problem.

Did it smoke before your repairs? Did you rebuild the engine? Maybe the engine is stiff if you rebuilt it, and the starter was having trouble spinning it.
That's my 2 cents.

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es it did smoke before the repairs. I have [u:193d76cfbf]not[/u:193d76cfbf] rebuilt the engine.

John (UK) has an excellent Information Sheet on Governor Adjustment. Send him an email.

You should be able to get a suitable fan belt almost anywhere. Work out the length you need and try SuperCheap, Repco, farm machinery dealer etc.

Yes you can test the starter motor direct. Run a [u:b5274431c4]jumper lead[/u:b5274431c4] (nothing thinner) from battery positive (+) direct to the positive post on your starter motor (or hold a heavy screw driver across the bell housing starter switch). If it turns over OK check the position of the starter switch in the bell housing - it can be adjusted forward and back.

I had my starter motor fully rebuilt by an auto electrician a couple of years ago, including new starter pinion, brushes and bushes. Only cost Aus$80!

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20

John (UK) has an excellent Information Sheet on Governor Adjustment. Send him an email.

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hanks, will do.

You should be able to get a suitable fan belt almost anywhere. Work out the length you need and try SuperCheap, Repco, farm machinery dealer etc.

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hing is, nowhere seems to stock a belt close to as wide as the original belt.

Yes you can test the starter motor direct. Run a [u:efb5ce8ddf]jumper lead[/u:efb5ce8ddf] (nothing thinner) from battery positive (+) direct to the positive post on your starter motor (or hold a heavy screw driver across the bell housing starter switch). If it turns over OK check the position of the starter switch in the bell housing - it can be adjusted forward and back.

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here is the bell housing starter switch?

I had my starter motor fully rebuilt by an auto electrician a couple of years ago, including new starter pinion, brushes and bushes. Only cost Aus$80!

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ice. I was quoted $170 for a basic rebuild, or $400 if it needs to be rewound.

Regarding question #2, from your pictures, the belt is not of the correct width and, unless you can adjust the alternator to tighten it, it is also too long. The deflection between the pulleys should be about 1/4 - 1/2 inch on a properly tensioned new belt. Yours looks to be 2-3 inches.

If you're letting the smoke out of the starter, the switch is not the problem. You need to have the starter checked out and possibly rebuilt.

(quoted from post at 12:39:01 10/13/08) Regarding question #2, from your pictures, the belt is not of the correct width and, unless you can adjust the alternator to tighten it, it is also too long. The deflection between the pulleys should be about 1/4 - 1/2 inch on a properly tensioned new belt. Yours looks to be 2-3 inches.

If you're letting the smoke out of the starter, the switch is not the problem. You need to have the starter checked out and possibly rebuilt.

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he belt in Pic #2 is of the correct width, but obviously it is too long. I included that photo to illustrate how much too long the standard belt is. The smaller belt is of correct length, but is too narrow, which is why it slips.

Do you know where I can source a suitable belt, or should I just try my luck at local stores and hope they can get something suitable?

[u:3df612df51][b:3df612df51]Make sure the tractor is in neutral[/b:3df612df51][/u:3df612df51].

Put a heavy screw driver across the two terminals on the bell housing starter switch, see above.

I probably got a good deal on my starter overhaul, but you should be able to get the commutator cleaned and brushes replaced for under Aus$100. You can buy a replacement starter for Aus$135 from [b:3df612df51]MD Tractors and Machinery in Melbourne[/b:3df612df51].

Any reasonable auto dealer should be able to measure that belt and have a catalogue giving a smaller diameter belt. I know Supercheap and Repco will be able to help you, as would most auto parts dealers.

Bob in Oz
'53 TEA20[/u]

Sparex lists a belt for the TEA-20, part no S.40088 equivalent to 641696M1 for the TEA-20-80 and -20-85.

[b:326d7a12e3]Jerry[/b:326d7a12e3]. I suspect the correct fan belt for the TEA20 will be too long if an alternator (with smaller diameter pulley) is fitted. I vaguely recall seeing a TEA20 with alternator fitted but with a very long adjuster piece and the alternator well out, clear of the block. Probably to compensate for the smaller diameter pulley?

Also never seen a notched belt on a Fergy and wonder if that fan belt is the correct profile?

The corresponding BareCo part no for a TEA20-85 fan belt is: B2178 (570038M1, 570039M1). The TEA20 (80 mm bore engine) is a different fan belt (BareCo part no B2177) as the water pump is attached to the block, not the head as per the 85 mm bore engine.

Bob in Oz

Here is a video for you all:

http://www.youtube.com/v/OUF9v0xvPk4&hl

Here is a link directly to the web page:

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=OUF9v0xvPk4

Nice video. Certainly sounds like a Fergy!!!

Careful with the part numbers I gave you above. That looks like an 80 mm bore engine so both the starter and fan belt are different to my TEA20 (85 mm bore engine).

I'm guessing you still have a 6 volt starter in a 12 volt system. If the starter is dead your better option may be to buy a new 12 volt starter for the earlier 80 mm engine. Check with MD Tractors.

Righto, thanks for that. I have bought a few parts from MD in the past. Can you point me to the correct starter, and perhaps even the correct fan belt on the MD site?

How can you tell from the video that it's the 80mm engine? The only way I knew was because of the block mounted water pump.

Block mounted water pump - but mostly from the title "1948 TEA20". Originally it has to be 6 volt, positive earth.

You need the 6 to 12 volt conversion starter, part no 7200, $255 from MD Tractors and Machinery.

OK great, thanks for that.

(quoted from post at 13:35:38 10/14/08) Block mounted water pump - but mostly from the title "1948 TEA20". Originally it has to be 6 volt, positive earth.

You need the 6 to 12 volt conversion starter, part no 7200, $255 from MD Tractors and Machinery.

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here on the MD site are you finding these part numbers and prices? Or are you looking at their eBay store?