Clutch

AussieDoc · Jul 26, 2008

My clutch has finally got to the point of too much gear crunching. No amount of pedal adjustment will help. It's now time to over haul it.

Any tips before a begin to split it? It's a TEA20 but any tips relating to other models will probably work too.

Duner Wi · Jul 26, 2008

Remember to tie/wedge/ block engine so it can't rotate on the front axle pivot. This applies if you are working from the floor up rather than the ceiling down. A clutch centering tool is also helpful but can be done by eyeball. I leave the engine stationary and roll the back of tractor away.

AussieDoc · Jul 30, 2008

Okay. I split it today. Took about 1.5hrs. Which I thought was pretty quick!

The clutch assembly came out easily enough.

The fingers on the clutch which press on the thrust bearing look a little worn down. The clutch plate is also grubby and worn down close to the rivets. The thrust bearing looks and feels fine.

The rest looks good including the flywheel.

The question is, do I replace the plate only or the complete thing? :?

Bob (Aust) · Jul 30, 2008

[b:109eccc8c2]Doc[/b:109eccc8c2]. 1.5 hours - amazing, considering one usually spends that long cutting off 50 years of rusted nuts and bolts!

Unless you enjoy splitting Fergy's, replace the lot, including throw out and pilot bearings. MD Machinery had a good price on a complete clutch kit. Last time I split mine I also had the flywheel refaced, think it cost $50.

[u:109eccc8c2]And don't forget to check the ring gear[/u:109eccc8c2] - they usually have worn and damaged teeth. Think the BareCo replacement is around $70.

Check the rear main crank shaft seal and gear box input seal - two more cheap jobs whilst the tractor is in pieces!

Bob in Oz

AussieDoc · Jul 30, 2008

Bob,

I know what you mean about rust. But this time the gods were on my side - no rust. I also used an air ratchet. Very handy and quick.

The most time consuming thing was jacking and blocking.

I rang our local tractor shop for the complete clutch kit and I was quoted $781.50 plus freight!! :shock:

I checked e-bay and can get the same kit for $263.40 delivered!! :shock:

It just seems like a waste having to replace the pressure plate, springs and housing when there is nothing wrong with it.

Ideally I'd like to only replace the 3 fingers/levers, thrust and pilot bearings and clutch plate. :roll:

Bob (Aust) · Jul 30, 2008

[b:6524fce487]Doc[/b:6524fce487]. Your tractor; you're looking at the clutch; your decision.

I get this terrible premonition that if I cheap skate on parts, the part I didn't change will fail in the first five hours, resulting in doing the job all over again! :x Nothing worse than doing the whole job again just because you decided to reuse one part.

But you have a point. You could buy three good TEA20s on EBay for what mine has cost - and it's cost me around twice it's real market value. Bit like my Jag - that is a hole in the garage in which I joyously burn heaps of $100 bills!!!

On my current limited weekend use of the Jag, concessional registration and insurance alone costs me around $2 per mile - who cares what petrol costs!!! :lol:

Forget about the $700, gold plated clutch kit. MD Machinery were selling the Bareco kits via EBay for around the $230 mark.

Bob in Oz

AussieDoc · Jul 30, 2008

Yep. I hope you and my gut feelings are right. I've ordered the kit.

All I need now are front and rear wheel bearings, seals, radiator shroud, could do with a new fuel tank and sediment bowl, a couple of those floor boards, ball joints, bearings for the front axel supports and paint. :roll:

Yup, I plan on keeping it a while yet.

Just because.

Clutch

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Duner Wi

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Bob (Aust)

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Bob (Aust)

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