TO20/TO30 general questions

Mad Farmer

Well-known Member
Location
Northeast
I've got a "Franken-Fergie" TO20 w/TO30 thread going.

These are more general questions.

1) TO30 oil filter same as N Fords? My manuals, Fergy and IT don't list filter commercial part #s. Has external TO30 filter. EG fram C3P ?

2) Tranny/dif/hyd oil. Mine seems to have (clean) gear oil in it now. I've been using Ford spec hyd fluid in my 9N for 35 years now, cold winters. Is hyd fluid same considerations as the N fords? Will hyd be slow in cold weather w/gear oil. Any issues with leaks w/different fluids? Do Fergy axle seals go bad like Ns, and are fixes the same?

3) What will be running the Fergie be much different than my 9N? I plow, brush hog, pull logs, .......... I already heard the brakes work!!!! How does the TO30 129 engine compare with the Ns for power? I see 23 and 29 HP listed belt HP, 9N vs TO30. 4sp tranny help much?

4) Tune up specs here show idle/static at TDC, Manuals show 7 or 6 BTC, TO20 vs 30. What is correct?

5) One other strange thing from my reading. IT manual has intake valve seat angles listed at 30? Typo for 45?

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 10/14/2022 at 06:37 pm.
 
2) Harry Ferguson designed the hyd system used both in Fergy and Ford. I figured the fluids would be the same. Some People figure a different
machine is a different oil. Why? Bad seals on your Fergy? Axle seals? Sure Seals might be worth a look.
3) That 30 HP Fergy will run a bit stronger than your 8N.
4) I don't believe a degree of timing is going to hurt anything.
 
(quoted from post at 21:11:37 10/14/22) 2) Harry Ferguson designed the hyd system used both in Fergy and Ford. I figured the fluids would be the same. Some People figure a different
machine is a different oil. Why? Bad seals on your Fergy? Axle seals? Sure Seals might be worth a look.
3) That 30 HP Fergy will run a bit stronger than your 8N.
4) I don't believe a degree of timing is going to hurt anything.

I guess I did not make #4 clear. This website has a "tuneup" spec page , TO20 and 30 both listed at TDC/ 0 degrees, Fergy and IT manuals lists 7 and 6 degrees BTDC , TO20 30 respectively.
 
A hot running engine can have timing at or very near zero. These machines like a few million others need it roughly 6 BTDC.
Time is the one factor that can not be changed. It is constant. Ignition can be advanced so the piston reaches the proper position in the
cylinder when the spark actually occurs.
 

So, back to the question why is ignition timing for the tractors mentioned listed, on this website/"Niehoff, listed as TDC/0 degrees?


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It likely has to do with the different distributors used and the working of the advance mechanisms in them. Generic tune up lists don't always take into account all the OEM info. I would use the OEM info, see how it runs, and adjust from there if needed.
 
The Brit TE20 had Lucas electrics and different dist curve, those are TDC static/idle.

i used to do SBCs back when they were smog free. We put on 8in flywheels on with up to 40 degrees ATDC timing marks. We played with springs and weights inside the distributors, cut in mech advance quick, then tune vac advance to not knock and still get gas mileage. We didn't have a "distributor machine".

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 10/17/2022 at 08:00 am.
 
(quoted from post at 10:43:57 10/17/22) The Brit TE20 had Lucas electrics and different dist curve, those are TDC static/idle.

i used to do SBCs back when they were smog free. We put on 8in flywheels on with up to 40 degrees ATDC timing marks. We played with springs and weights inside the distributors, cut in mech advance quick, then tune vac advance to not knock and still get gas mileage. We didn't have a "distributor machine".

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 10/17/2022 at 08:00 am.

To clarify my previous post. My guess is whomever compiled the Niehoff chart (which may be the source of the YT chart) made it, when they saw the TE20 spec they didn't know the differences in the models so did not look any further and properly add the actually TO20 and TO30 info.
 
(quoted from post at 14:43:06 10/17/22)
(quoted from post at 10:43:57 10/17/22) The Brit TE20 had Lucas electrics and different dist curve, those are TDC static/idle.

i used to do SBCs back when they were smog free. We put on 8in flywheels on with up to 40 degrees ATDC timing marks. We played with springs and weights inside the distributors, cut in mech advance quick, then tune vac advance to not knock and still get gas mileage. We didn't have a "distributor machine".

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 10/17/2022 at 08:00 am.

To clarify my previous post. My guess is whomever compiled the Niehoff chart (which may be the source of the YT chart) made it, when they saw the TE20 spec they didn't know the differences in the models so did not look any further and properly add the actually TO20 and TO30 info.

I understand. Mods here should up date the TO20/30 info.

Six/Seven degrees won't screw an old tractor but maybe not run as good as it could.

P.S. I went to NAPA, parts millenial, didn't know what ignition points were????? Totally befuddled.....
 
Mad Farmer,
4) Tune up specs here show idle/static at TDC, Manuals show 7 or 6 BTC, TO20 vs 30. What is correct?

Time it 29-31 degrees BTDC at 2000 RPM and all will be good unless your dist does not work correctly.That is what the Ferguson dealer shop manual says.
 
Napa 1010 Gold fits the original canister filter on the TO30. The 30 is stronger than the N. If your fluid is good, don't mess with it.
The mineral oil (GL-1) works well if you let it warm up for a few minutes and less likely to leak onto seals. Takes 6 gallons. Expensive
and messy to change.
 
(quoted from post at 06:42:26 10/19/22) Mad Farmer,
4) Tune up specs here show idle/static at TDC, Manuals show 7 or 6 BTC, TO20 vs 30. What is correct?

Time it 29-31 degrees BTDC at 2000 RPM and all will be good unless your dist does not work correctly.That is what the Ferguson dealer shop manual says.

I am trying to correct what is posted on this site, see above.

If I have a properly working dist, static timing is quick and easy. You don't need a timing light/tach.

I just went thuogh my Cousin's NNA and advance/insides was screwed up

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 10/19/2022 at 07:01 am.
 

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