TO-20 engine knock

Hdonly · Sep 29, 2022

I got my my new to me TO-20 running. Someone before me had the distributor cap on 180 degrees out. Anyway, cleaned and set points, turned cap around (distributor shaft pretty sloppy) and put some gas to the carb. She fired up but smokes alot and sounds like a rod knocking. It holds oil pressure right in the middle of the green on the gauge. The knock gets quieter as it warms up, but doesn't go away. Maybe wrist pin? Going to pull the pan and see what I can see.

John Deere D · Sep 29, 2022

With the engine running, remove one spark plug lead at a time. Then replaces said plu wire and remove the next spark
plug wire etc,etc,etc,.
Take not of the cylinder that the KNOCK stops when the plug wire is removed.

Do a compression test on each cylinder...
Remove rocker cover and inspect for any stuck, bend push rods.......

Chances are, you have purchased a Tractor that someone else gave up on...

Remove engine oil pan and check the bottom ends.......

Bob..

Steve@Advance · Sep 29, 2022

What John Deere D said, also check the crank end thrust while you're in there. Back off the clutch freeplay
first to get a good check.

Good warm oil pressure us a very good sign the bottom end is good.

Tom H. · Sep 29, 2022

Couldnt have said it better. Drop pan check connecting rods.

Tom H. · Oct 2, 2022

Any news?

Hdonly · Oct 2, 2022

(quoted from post at 07:31:18 10/02/22) Any news?

I had to stop and work on forming up to pour some concrete for a carport. Seems I have about a dozen projects going on at once. Hope to get back on the TO-20 tomorrow. I'm resting today.

Hdonly · Oct 26, 2022

Whew! I finally got back on the Ferguson. Pulled the oil pan off. # 4 rod was loose enough that I could hear and see the play in it rocking the fan back and forth. The journal doesn't look rough. No marks that look real serious. It looks like the original standar bearings in it. Even at low idle hot it still is right at the edge of the oil pressure green on the gauge. With a few rpms, it goes to the middle of the green.when hot.The color of the bearing is an unusual color, but maybe normal for the original bearings. Maybe some of you know. I think I am going to replace the rod and mains if you can do that in frame.

This post was edited by Hdonly on 10/26/2022 at 03:25 pm.

Hdonly · Oct 27, 2022

I forgot to mention that the oil screen assembly was in upside down and the two washers and spring that goes between the main cap and the cover were missing. The screen is also beat out of shape. I found a good used one on Ebay for $25 + shipping. Looking for the spring and washers now. The oil pan is also beat up where the filter cover plate fits. Will try to straighten that out while I wait for parts. Here is my exploded drawing of how all these parts go together.

J.Wondergem · Oct 27, 2022

If the shell is black as it looks in the picture, it looks like it ran in anti freeze. Did you check any of the other ones?

Hdonly · Oct 27, 2022

No coolant at all in the oil when I drained it. I am going to replace the bearings and run it for now. One day down the road I plan on pulling the engine and do a proper rebuild if need be. Just have too many other things going on right now.

Hdonly · Oct 28, 2022

I am thinking from everything I read that you can only replace the center main bearing with the engine still in the tractor. Is that correct?

TO-20 engine knock

Hdonly

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John Deere D

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Steve@Advance

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Tom H.

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Hdonly

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J.Wondergem

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