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TO-35 Timing Gear cover

B

brumbl

Member
I have a 1957 TO-35 with a Z134 657473 engine. Does anybody know if I can take the timing cover off without taking the front axel off like the book says? Book says basically remove shroud, radiator and axel. I have crankcase seal that won't budge. Numerous heating, penetrating oil, pullers and screws have produced nothing but messed up seal. Hate to Drexel and take a chance of scarring housing.
 
What you can try is undoing the axle housing bolts then jack the engine up through the steering arms and then complete the new seal job. Still need to remove radiator
 
Thanks Tom. It looked to me like there might be enough clearance as thin as the cover looked to clear the crankshaft and remove the cover. I think the only way the seals are coming out is to have the cover on a bench. The front one doesn't budge so the second is probably the same. Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:24 09/02/22) Thanks Tom. It looked to me like there might be enough clearance as thin as the cover looked to clear the crankshaft and remove the cover. I think the only way the seals are coming out is to have the cover on a bench. The front one doesn't budge so the second is probably the same. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Be very careful removing the timing cover, it's cast aluminum and easy to crack. There are two steel dowels for locating it when assembling to the engine that seem to corrode in place (galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum is common) and thus make it really hard to pull the cover off without cracking it. Pry right next to the two dowel pins if you are thinking of using a long screwdriver, wedges, or small pry bar on the cover. PB-Blaster those pins when you find them and that may help before removal.

It's been a year since I did a governor replacements, but I think there are bolts on the front of the crank oil pan and governor housing behind the crank pulley.

I took the whole front of the tractor off when I did mine. You may have some fancier tools and can leave more of it together.

If the governor is worn badly, when you pull the cover off, the governor bearing balls will fall, with bits of the governor spinner, right down into the crankshaft oil pan. I had to remove the oil pan and make sure all the metal bits were out of the pan.

.
 
Thank you much. I did what you said this
morning and it worked great. Used heat
plus PB on those dowels and it popped
right off. Seal was still hard to drive
out but heat, PD and drift punch finally
got it. Jacked the transmission up to take
some stress off the oil pan and loosened
all the oil pan bolts. It worked without
taking the front end and radiator off.
Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 20:39:14 09/05/22) Thank you much. I did what you said this
morning and it worked great. Used heat
plus PB on those dowels and it popped
right off. Seal was still hard to drive
out but heat, PD and drift punch finally
got it. Jacked the transmission up to take
some stress off the oil pan and loosened
all the oil pan bolts. It worked without
taking the front end and radiator off.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Glad you had success! Next governor I need to repair I'll try without removing the front end.

There is a youtube video on 'bundy bears' channel that shows how to set the governor so it works properly. It's a very handy channel to look up for anything TO or MF35 related.

.
 
Thanks again for the info. I lifted up the
transmission just to take a strain off the
front oil pan. It only lifted the wheel on
one side but I think it helped.
 
Took the pan bolts loose, lifted transmission up a bit and then just pulled the timing cover off. It cleared everything without having to remove radiator or front axel. Removed seal on the bench and back running. Hope this helps anyone who has to replace the seal.
 
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