3rd oil pump follow up

I have the reconditioned oil pump from Wengers. I pulled the cover off to make sure all was good inside. But here is an issue: the photo shows my old pump and gouged cover plate. It has a ground hollow in the inside face. The cover plate on the one I purchased is completely flat. So what is the ground hollow do and do I have a problem putting a pump on without this feature? Thanks
cvphoto131223.jpg
 
I think youre going to be fine with the new pump. The hollow grind was probably for some oil collection during operation which would ensure proper lubrication for the pump. Maybe not needed anymore with modern oils.

Tom
 
Modern oils?
You mean 'wash away' energy conserving oils?
I would venture to guess a feature to eliminate cavitation upon start up.
Did you pack your new pump with vaseline and replace the rubber seals inside the oil tube?
Using any old parts from an old oil pump is an invitation to disaster.
 
The pump had light grease in it, I looked. Also, I pumped oil in the pump by sticking a quart under the suction pipe and cranking the engine with a hand crank and the plugs out. There were no rubber seals in the suction tube, so I didnt replace any. They look like flair fittings.
 
Light grease should work fine. Where the pipe goes through that brass fitting should be a very minor flare.
On the back side of that flare and going into the brass fitting should be a rubber seal.
That rubber seal, after 50 years, is not going to be soft and pliable such as new rubber.
If that rubber seal is missing, the flare will simply bounce around and might even come out of the fitting.
If the rubber is there, it will be hard and black.
So, is there anything behind that flare, other than silver shiny pipe?
As for the flare, if that is all that is there, it quite possibly should be a double and not a single, flare.
So, single or double and any hard black thing behind that flare?
Ignore it, put it together then wonder why the engine is running such low oil pressure as the pick up tube is busy sucking air and delivering air bubbles to the engine bearings.

Recipe for disaster?

Me? I searched hyd shops to find those seals when I reworked her '50 Fergy TO-20 then generously filled the pump with vaseline and a slight amount in the tube. Oil pressure on her engine at first start was north of 50 PSI.

However it sounds like you have it all together. Hope it all works out for you.
 
The oil pump I rebuilt did not have the grind on the cover. Dunno. You'll be fine with the Wenger's unit. The seal ('sleeve') is good to replace, I found one on eBay three years ago when I overhauled a Z-129. Tonight I could not find any searching with the part # (1064516m1). As I recall, it is simply a short section of rubber tubing, not an O-ring. As long as the oil pressure comes right up when starting the engine, I wouldn't worry about it at this point.
 
I started the tractor and pressure immediately came up to 20 psi at idle. About 30 psi at faster speeds. But, when the oil gets hot, pressure drops down to zero. I will look to find the O rings. Maybe it is sucking air. Oil is Traveller brand 15-40 diesel grade.
 
Oil pressure will drop as the engine warms up and bearing clearances expand.

With it dropping to zero, or near enough not to show up on the gauge, I would have to stuff in a new set of bearings while it is apart.

If sucking air, which I suspect it is at a slight rate, I don't believe it would drop it to zero.
Since the pressure drops when warm, I wouldn't point a hard finger at the oil tube seals.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top