TEF20 Oil pressure

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

Hello!

New to the forum and Tractors!

I embarked on my first ever oil change / service over the weekend, drained the sump, swapped out the filter for new and emptied / refilled the air cleaner sump thingy...

Everything seem to go well and i followed the manual / what others have recommended.

The only slight issue i have now is the oil pressure is higher, it seemed pretty high to start with but within the green "normal zone " on the gauge. Following the work i did it is now almost touching the red too high zone.

If someone wouldn't mind suggesting things i could check or do to try a resolve that would be great!

Many thanks
Stew

tractorsam · Jun 20, 2022

Its not that unusual to have the oil pressure higher after
an oil change, particularly if it was somewhat overdue.
The first thing I would do is find a known good gauge and
test the actual pressure to compare to book specs.

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

Thanks for the super speedy reply! i'll have to purchase a new gauge to carry out this check.

(can already here my wife, MORE tractor parts!) :lol:

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

Thanks for the super speedy reply! i'll have to purchase a new gauge to carry out this check.

(can already here my wife, MORE tractor parts!) :lol:

John Deere D · Jun 20, 2022

Oil that was in Engine........? eg..20W..30W..40W...15-40...15-30..etc,etc,
Bob..

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

(quoted from post at 15:29:54 06/20/22) Oil that was in Engine........? eg..20W..30W..40W...15-40...15-30..etc,etc,
Bob..

Hi Bob, unfortunately I have no idea what was in it before. I have put in SAE30.

Bruce(OR) · Jun 20, 2022

You might also find that the oil pressure drops as the engine warms up. This is due to increased clearances of the bearings. Not worth being
overly concerned until you drop to about 5 PSI at idle.
The loaded subject being, consider running a heavy duty oil that has more zinc in it. That zinc additive is reported to help protect the cam
from prematurely wearing out. Heavy duty oil also leaves a film behind that eliminates the typical Dry Starts of the modern energy
conserving oil. Energy conserving oil works well with roller cams in the newer engines and helps increase fuel mileage.
I don't believe your machine has either a roller cam or a great concern for mileage.
YMMV.

Steve@Advance · Jun 20, 2022

This is a Standard Diesel, correct?

If so the pressure adjustment screw is located on top of the oil filter housing. There is a screw held by a
jamb nut.

The pressure should be set to 60 PSI at 1400 RPM by the I&T Manual.

I assume that would be with the engine AND oil up to operating temperature. It takes the oil longer to come
up to temp than the coolant, so any adjustment should be made after the engine has actually been working a
while.

Obviously you would need a trusted gauge.

Steve@Advance · Jun 20, 2022

One other thing I wanted to mention.

The oil bath air cleaner. Up inside the canister is a wire mesh filter. There is little mention of it in any manuals, but it needs to be cleaned periodically. If it has been neglected it could be packed so bad it will need the mesh removed and cleaned or replaced. Not an easy job but necessary to get good air flow to the engine.

This has nothing to do with the oil pressure unless it is so clogged fuel is getting drawn past the rings and diluting the oil.

Duner Wi · Jun 20, 2022

My guessing is your gauge may not be correct for your engine.
Some aftermarket gauges are one size fits all for Fergys. T020 and TEF 20. TEF would have about double the pressure of a TO20. Some aftermarket do not list gauges for TEF20 but do list for TO20. I would install a known good gauge that reads in numbers at least to figure out what you really have.

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

(quoted from post at 16:02:47 06/20/22) This is a Standard Diesel, correct?

If so the pressure adjustment screw is located on top of the oil filter housing. There is a screw held by a
jamb nut.

The pressure should be set to 60 PSI at 1400 RPM by the I&T Manual.

I assume that would be with the engine AND oil up to operating temperature. It takes the oil longer to come
up to temp than the coolant, so any adjustment should be made after the engine has actually been working a
while.

Obviously you would need a trusted gauge.

Thanks Steve, good advice. Ive seen the adjustment screw your mention.

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

(quoted from post at 16:19:39 06/20/22) One other thing I wanted to mention.

The oil bath air cleaner. Up inside the canister is a wire mesh filter. There is little mention of it in any manuals, but it needs to be cleaned periodically. If it has been neglected it could be packed so bad it will need the mesh removed and cleaned or replaced. Not an easy job but necessary to get good air flow to the engine.

This has nothing to do with the oil pressure unless it is so clogged fuel is getting drawn past the rings and diluting the oil.

I noticed the upper mesh when removing the bottom.. the lower mesh looked pretty clean and in good condition (until I dropped it in my oil pan, it was rinsed in diesel and it dripped dry before reassembling) could the upper mesh differ greatly in condition from the lower? I didnt really inspect the upper to be honest

This post was edited by Lead79 on 06/20/2022 at 10:19 am.

Lead79 · Jun 20, 2022

(quoted from post at 17:00:32 06/20/22) My guessing is your gauge may not be correct for your engine.
Some aftermarket gauges are one size fits all for Fergys. T020 and TEF 20. TEF would have about double the pressure of a TO20. Some aftermarket do not list gauges for TEF20 but do list for TO20. I would install a known good gauge that reads in numbers at least to figure out what you really have.

This is what I have, no idea if its right for the TEF?

Would this be a suitable replacement?

https://agrilineproducts.com/ferguson-oil-pressure-gauge-5053

tractorsam · Jun 20, 2022

That gauge appears to be off a newer 35/135. Yes, the
one you linked to is closer to original.

Steve@Advance · Jun 20, 2022

It's kinda hard to tell looking at the bottom, but that's a good sign.

Take it off and look in the top end, that's where it gets caked up where the
air goes in. Try rinsing it out in diesel or solvent, see if it cleans up and
blows out.

If it's clean, when you make the hose connection with it running, you should
not feel it suck the hose on, it should freely flow with no resistance.

Lead79 · Jun 21, 2022

(quoted from post at 04:33:57 06/21/22) It's kinda hard to tell looking at the bottom, but that's a good sign.

Take it off and look in the top end, that's where it gets caked up where the
air goes in. Try rinsing it out in diesel or solvent, see if it cleans up and
blows out.

If it's clean, when you make the hose connection with it running, you should
not feel it suck the hose on, it should freely flow with no resistance.

I will definitely investigate this over the weekend! Thanks!

Lead79 · Jun 21, 2022

(quoted from post at 20:09:56 06/20/22) That gauge appears to be off a newer 35/135. Yes, the
one you linked to is closer to original.

So I purchased the new gauge today, then did a bit of mowing this afternoon, half hour ish into the session the existing gauge told me I had perfect pressure!

Could this all have just been a case of just needing a little patients while everything settled down after the oil service?

TEF20 Oil pressure

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