Heres a problem to think on

So my dads TO30 Ferguson had the engine rebuilt about 4 years ago, valves ground and the whole 9 yards. It has new plugs, cap, rotor, 12 volt ignition system, and petronix electronic ignition. Anyhow, now when it gets hot outside and hes running the PTO it sputters and nearly dies. He shuts it down letting it cool some, then it fires right back up.. runs for a while then the same. I told dad to get a temp gauge and Id install it for him, he got one with no numbers, just red and green for temp indication. I installed it even though I told him Id rather have the ones with numbers. He said it never goes out of the green.Anyhow, he called me today and said he was having issues with it, I went to where he was mowing and observed it spitting and sputtering, I noticed his sediment bowl had some bubbles, it looked like they were coming into to fuel bowl from the line. I also noticed that whoever made up the fuel line that it actually runs a little bit up hill in 2 spots. His gas cap is completely open , I blew through it both directions. The fuel line isnt close to the manifold, and his gas tank is clear from debris. I dont think vapor lock applies to gravity fed fuel systems but i could be mistaken.Im going to clean his entire fuel system for starters, maybe bend a new fuel line for him. He has 125lbs +/- 2-3 lbs compression on all 4 cylinders, his cap and rotor look really good. Ive noticed that when it runs it has a pronounced miss, and its consistant. Im thinking its a fuel issue any other suggestions?
 
Take the distributor cap off an wipe it out with a clean rag. If you don't have a clean rag, a slightly dirty one will probably work. It's likely that the distributor has a little dirt accumulated and higher humidity can cause the spark to make a track to ground.
 
(quoted from post at 16:07:30 06/14/22) Take the distributor cap off an wipe it out with a clean rag. If you don't have a clean rag, a slightly dirty one will probably work. It's likely that the distributor has a little dirt accumulated and higher humidity can cause the spark to make a track to ground.
Your response also makes me think about his dust cover, it has a huge gap around the rotor, that could maybe cause an issue as well Ill do that and replace his dust cover on the distributor if I can find one
 
.

Next it could be the coil overheating. Even though the parts are 'new' there are instances where they are not made well or fail shortly after installation.

If it's spitting on one cylinder, pull plug wires to find the one that is struggling and check the plug, wire, and connections.

.
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:17 06/14/22) .

Next it could be the coil overheating. Even though the parts are 'new' there are instances where they are not made well or fail shortly after installation.

If it's spitting on one cylinder, pull plug wires to find the one that is struggling and check the plug, wire, and connections.

.
I had considered that the coil may be over heating I have a new one, Im going to replace it tomorrow
 
Did Fergies have a heat shield over the
engine under the fuel tank?
Did the fuel line go over the shield under
the tank?
Try some fuel without the alcohol, if
available.
Bubbles don't sound good.
 
(quoted from post at 19:36:45 06/14/22) Did Fergies have a heat shield over the
engine under the fuel tank?
Did the fuel line go over the shield under
the tank?
Try some fuel without the alcohol, if
available.
Bubbles don't sound good.
Ive never seen a shield under the fuel tank. The bubbles are puzzling for sure. Im going to go through the fuel system as thourogh as possible.
 
K. Have you checked for fuel flow THROUGH the carburetor? Remove the plug at the bottom (assuming there is one) and see if you can fill a pint jar in 2 minutes. If that's good, then concentrate on ignition.
By now, you probably have tried a different coil. Did that help?
BTW, I agree with you on the vapor lock issue. Also, even though the fuel line runs up hill in a couple of places, as long as the whole line is below the fuel shut off, it should be okay.
If nothing else is found, then I would have to suspect the Petronix.
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:03 06/15/22) K. Have you checked for fuel flow THROUGH the carburetor? Remove the plug at the bottom (assuming there is one) and see if you can fill a pint jar in 2 minutes. If that's good, then concentrate on ignition.
By now, you probably have tried a different coil. Did that help?
BTW, I agree with you on the vapor lock issue. Also, even though the fuel line runs up hill in a couple of places, as long as the whole line is below the fuel shut off, it should be okay.
If nothing else is found, then I would have to suspect the Petronix.
I havnt checked anything yet, its not in my shop yet. Im waiting on a lower radiator hose for my most recent project, a TO20. When that arrives Ill replace that and swap out tractors for dads TO30. Ive already ordered a new coil for his tractor, then I grab a dust cover.
 
I had a similar problem on my John Deere last year, it had a steel line with a filter in the middle of it running along the engine to the carb. I replaced it with a stainless covered rubber line and left the
inline filter out to try it and it solved the problem (vapor lock?) I put the filter back in the covered line and it has been fine since. Mine was running under the exhaust to the carb though.
 
Silicone outer and high heat inner liner....
I installed on a Ferguson TEA-20.........NO more bubbles from high heat in fuel line.
New owner has never has a problem in 100 deg F pulling two bottom plough.
Bob..
cvphoto128373.jpg


cvphoto128374.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 08:27:39 06/16/22) Silicone outer and high heat inner liner....
I installed on a Ferguson TEA-20.........NO more bubbles from high heat in fuel line.
New owner has never has a problem in 100 deg F pulling two bottom plough.
Bob..
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto128373.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto128374.jpg>
I like that idea, where do I get it? What diameter did you use?
 
Update on dads tractor, I went ahead and put a new 12 volt coil on it with internal resistor, new plugs and new wires, wiped out cap and cleaned rotor, cleaned air filter element, tightened down all hose clamps pertaining to the air cleaner ( they were all terribly loose) and it still has a very slight erratic miss.I sprayed PB blaster as it was all I had, around the manifold and carb gaskets as well as the throttle rod no change in how it ran. Now Im going to focus on the fuel system tomorrow. I think his carb may be partially plugged up.. will update later.
 
Check the distributor bushing for wear. The allowable lateral motion of the distributor shaft is 0.002 inches. Symptoms are sputtering and missing, lack of power. My old T0-30 had the original bushing and it was so worn when I did the check for wear the points actually opened about 0.050 inches! I sent it off and got it re-bushed and it ran like a top.
 
(quoted from post at 08:27:02 06/17/22) Check the distributor bushing for wear. The allowable lateral motion of the distributor shaft is 0.002 inches. Symptoms are sputtering and missing, lack of power. My old T0-30 had the original bushing and it was so worn when I did the check for wear the points actually opened about 0.050 inches! I sent it off and got it re-bushed and it ran like a top.
Ye sir, the distributor has no side to side movement at all, just about 1/16 up and down movement. I had thought the same thing as you did so while I was in there I checked.one thing that bugs me and Im not sure why it does, but some one drilled the center out of the dust cover when the petronix was installed.. I have no idea why they would do that.
 
Gravity systems can very easily vapor lock. What happens the gas boils in the
line, pushing the liquid gas back up the line.

It should have a steel line, not coper. Steel is less conductive, less likely
to boil the gas. You can buy steel premade line at the auto supply. It is
intended to be used for brake line. It hand forms easily without benders.

As you know, it needs to be routed as far from the exhaust as practical and
all down hill, no inline filters.

Have you checked the centrifugal advance? Retarded ignition timing raises the
exhaust temperature, which increases the under hood temps. It never had a
heat shield but you could fab one if you like.

Might double check the coil. It should not be too hot to touch when it acts
up. Is there a part number on the coil itself? Often they are miss boxed. It
should have about 3 ohms resistance across the primary terminals out of
circuit to operate on full 12v.
 
(quoted from post at 10:44:22 06/17/22) Gravity systems can very easily vapor lock. What happens the gas boils in the
line, pushing the liquid gas back up the line.

It should have a steel line, not coper. Steel is less conductive, less likely
to boil the gas. You can buy steel premade line at the auto supply. It is
intended to be used for brake line. It hand forms easily without benders.

As you know, it needs to be routed as far from the exhaust as practical and
all down hill, no inline filters.

Have you checked the centrifugal advance? Retarded ignition timing raises the
exhaust temperature, which increases the under hood temps. It never had a
heat shield but you could fab one if you like.

Might double check the coil. It should not be too hot to touch when it acts
up. Is there a part number on the coil itself? Often they are miss boxed. It
should have about 3 ohms resistance across the primary terminals out of
circuit to operate on full 12v.
I have not checked the advance.. Ill do that. Ill get the steel line.. the old one runs up hill, has two small kinks.. and then runs back up hill slightly again.. its like a 2 year old bent that line.. haha
 
(quoted from post at 12:51:34 06/17/22)
(quoted from post at 10:44:22 06/17/22) Gravity systems can very easily vapor lock. What happens the gas boils in the
line, pushing the liquid gas back up the line.

It should have a steel line, not coper. Steel is less conductive, less likely
to boil the gas. You can buy steel premade line at the auto supply. It is
intended to be used for brake line. It hand forms easily without benders.

As you know, it needs to be routed as far from the exhaust as practical and
all down hill, no inline filters.

Have you checked the centrifugal advance? Retarded ignition timing raises the
exhaust temperature, which increases the under hood temps. It never had a
heat shield but you could fab one if you like.

Might double check the coil. It should not be too hot to touch when it acts
up. Is there a part number on the coil itself? Often they are miss boxed. It
should have about 3 ohms resistance across the primary terminals out of
circuit to operate on full 12v.
I have not checked the advance.. Ill do that. Ill get the steel line.. the old one runs up hill, has two small kinks.. and then runs back up hill slightly again.. its like a 2 year old bent that line.. haha

I've had good luck spraying (liberally)on the inside of the distributor with good old WD40 as it displaces moisture very well. Just spray and turn over and shake it out,,,Done,,! Good Luck!
 

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