Piston was marked at angle should be allright . Need new push rod. Still think you need to check and see why part of the pistons were washed clean.
 
Here's a short cut...

Since you're not trying to save the old bearing, just cut the outer race off.
Heat the inner race red hot on one side, whack it with a hammer, it will fall
off.

If you don't have a torch, use a 4 inch grinder with a cut-off wheel. Cut the
race carefully across opposite sides, but stop before cutting into the axle.
Hold a chisel with vise grips, drive it in the cut to split the bearing.

To press it back on, get a piece of pipe that will fit the bearing retainer
collar and will slide freely over the axle, long enough to extend beyond the
splined end of the axle. Slide the retainer plate, bearing and retainer
collar on the axle, slide the axle into the pipe. Holding the whole assembly
together, pound the end of the pipe on the concrete floor, it will drive the
bearing home. Just be sure, you only get one chance!
 
Steve, thanks for the info. What I did for my 1940 9N, was to get a gear puller at Harbor F for $40.00. I picked up 2x 3 foot lengths of threaded pipe 7/16 with some washers and nuts. I drilled and chiseled the retaining collar which drilled and split quite easily. Removed two of the bearing retainer (small hub) studs and screwed in the threaded rods, which run up the length of the axle down to the hub plate, and ran the threaded rods thru the gear puller at the top of the axle. I then used my map torch just to heat the bearing where it contacts the axle, and while it was still hot (not red hot), I just started wrenching on the nuts at the top of the threaded rods, and slowly but surely, the entire retaining hub came up and off, just like it would with a proper press. Was afraid that just using two stud holes might cause some threads to strip out, but they did not, everything came out with no damage. I don't think I will risk using the pipe banging in method, although I thought about it. I will take the assembly and axle to my local machine shop and have them press out the seal and race ( I just don't want to take a risk of damaging the hub or the axle bearing surface, and press in the replacement parts. I can then heat and install the final retaining collar and put in a sure seal. (Yes, I bought a spare collar just in case I screw this up the first time. Still cheaper that buying a proper shop press, as I never ever want to have to deal with another wheel bearing, ever. Thanks for the info, hopefully next week I will post a photo of what my outer seal looks like so people can see just why so much trans oil leaks onto our brakes. Regards and thanks for the ideas, Larry.
 

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