Well,,I'm back after,,,,,

Buggyboy

Member
Well,, as some know and remember My wife of 51 years passed late last year and I have been so dang busy with so many things to take care of both within our immediate family AND my wife's family as her mother also passed late last year and THAT has become a knock down dragout because of property issues as to who gets what. I'm so dang sick of people that do not care a whit about family just trying to get all they can before everybody else,,,,, Anybody else got family like that,,,??

I have finally got around to get back to the overhaul on the TO20 engine and got the pistons with new rings and bearings installed,,,sort of. I'm kinda concerned as after installing #3 piston and torquing the rod cap,,the engine got real hard to turn but would turn with a 18" pry bar on flywheel studs,,,,? I unbolted the #3 rod cap, cleaned the lubriplate off both bearing halves, put some plastigage on the bearings, torqued it up again and got .002 clearance which is within recommendations. I HAD checked piston ring end gaps in all 4 cylinders after honing all the cylinder liners,,SO,,what could be causing engine to be hard to turn?? I did notice that it seemed to take more effort than usual to "tap" the pistons down into the cylinders till it bottomed on crank rod journals,,,,so,,,it almost HAS to be the drag of the rings on the liners ,,,??

SO,,I decided to install the flywheel to use starter to see if it would turn engine before I go any farther. BUT,,you guessed it the friggin pilot bearing is froze up in flywheel!! ASAP does NOT list a PN for a new pilot bearing,,so does anyone know what that bearing number is to see if Oreillys has one?
AND,,one more,,,does the pilot bearing come out of flywheel to either direction??
SORRY for the long winded post,,,I'll try to do better next tine,,,,, :oops:
 
Sorry to hear of your loss.
As for the engine, That reminds me of a 283 I had a few, quite a few, years ago. You could hear the pistons stop sliding for the first 3 days
of engine operation. Typically the engine gets rotated for each piston installation. If suddenly one is much tighter than the others, you
might need to investigate.
You buy the pistons/cylinders from this site?
Pilot bearing should pop out either direction. Never have seen a tapered bearing in that application.
 

Hey Bruce, Glad you replied! I only had to turn the crank 1/2 rotation to get to the second and third journals,,BUT it turned real smooth after I assembled #1 AND #2,,,? I think I'm gonna pull #3 piston back out cause thats when it got tight after that assembly.
I had calipered all the liners and they were within specifications, so I just honed em and called it good. I also calipered the pistons and they were also within spec,,,,The ring End Gaps were also good,,,SO,,,??Yeah,,I better pull #3 to have another look see.

Does anyone have the PN for the pilot bearing in flywheel? Numbers are too faded to read on this one. Thanks for any help.
 
Hi Buggyboy, I too am sorry to hear about all your losses and family trouble.
Did you try loosening the rod cap on number 3 and then turn the crank over? That would tell you if it's the piston or the rad bearing. Although you did say that piston took more effort to push it down onto the crank.
 
Sorry for your loss and family problems.

How far apart did you take the engine? Did you replace the cylinder liner
orings? If not, now might be a good time to consider doing that. Good chance they will leak, especially if any of the liners moved. The liners just sit in the block, held down by the head. Any movement at all will
break the seal and they will leak or not seat fully back into the block and
hold the head up causing the head gasket to leak.

As for the tight piston or rod, I can't remember if the pistons have a front
or not, if they do they may be offset. The rods do matter, the oil squirt
hole goes away from the cam.

A quick test for rod binding, you should be able to slide the rod laterally
on the crank journal with finger pressure. If it won't slide, something is
wrong, not enough clearance, or the piston or rod is backward and binding.

With the piston out, you should be able to remove the rings, slide it back
into the bore, and have no binding whatsoever. If it binds, something is
wrong. It got dropped, dinged, something happened to change the fit.

Possibly if the oil ring is a 3 piece rail type it got folded over during
installation. Something that must be addressed!

Whatever it is, much better to fond it now than later!
 
Sorry for your loss and I seen this happen in family also Not sure what your working on I did a TO 30 it was like you said tight I ask my dad
ana he said sounds like a rod in backwords so I drop the pan had one in wrong on a z129 numbers to cam good luck.
 
So if 1 and 2 went good, 3 was in a bind, install 4 and see what happens when 3 is pulled out.
Now with 1, 2 and 4 installed and it spins good, take a good look at 3.
Each piston should increase rotating resistance.
However it sounds like 3 just bound it up.
4 did what?
 

Well, Bruce,, I removed #3 and verified the oil squirt hole was facing toward the camshaft. All the pistons have a notch to indicate front of engine. I thought sure I was going to find broken rings but all is good. I had already verified Ring end gaps of the rings going into each respective cylinder, so that was OK.
What I did do before removing the pistons, is hook up the starter and the engine did spin good,,,but was still very hard by hand on the flywheel,,,,HMMmmmm??
Something I need to do is get some good measurements from someone here on machining a "plate" to set under the liners to pull them up for ORing replacement,,? ( Don't want to BEAT em out) I have some 1/2" plate,,,do you think that will be heavy enough?
I DO NOT want to remove the crankshaft as I spent aa lot of time setting the rear main seal correctly as that right there was the main reason the engine was initially torn down by PO.
 

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