To 35 stalls in warm weather using PTO

I have a to35 that sputters than stalls out under a load/pto use in warm weather. If weather is cool or cold it runs fine. I have gone thru fuel system, carb, coil, points, plugs, and still not remedied. There was a forum years back discussing vapor lock but then read there is no fuel pump on to35 so can be vapor lock. Any suggestions??

Thanka
 
Have you tried loosening the gas tank cap? listen for a hiss indicating either a plugged vent or wrong cap.
 
(quoted from post at 20:07:40 04/24/22) Have you tried loosening the gas tank cap? listen for a hiss indicating either a plugged vent or wrong cap.

I bought a new cap that is vented from tractor supply. I have tried removing cap when this happens numerous times but does not help.
Once on a warm day in January (i live in SC) i heard the gas tank hissing but never before or since and i bought a new cap after that but still have problem.
 
do you have a temp gauge on your 35 that works? It sounds like its getting hot, also check your fuel line to see how close it is to the exhaust, might be vapor locking from heat. Sometimes it doesnt take much..
 

Temp gauge works fine. Heat shield is actually pretty rough looking back by air filter hose running to carb and the manifold looks like it cracked and was welded/brazed. And that crack is just above fuel line where it snakes under manifold and hooks up to carb
 
Try this:

Grab a piece of brake line the same size as your fuel line. Run a pony tank up away from the exhaust and see if your problem persists. If you think it's fuel related, that could confirm or deny your thoughts.

Otherwise, how old is the coil? condenser? Have you tried checking your spark once it's warmed up and you begin to have these issues?

Air, fuel, spark, timing. Those are what you need to run. The timing shouldn't change with weather to cause the machine to die. So that leaves air, fuel, spark.

Check your air filter, though I doubt it's the issue given your previous posts.

Others have suggested checking for vapor lock, this is why I mentioned trying a pony tank. It removes your entire fuel system up to the carb and replaces it with one that's known good.

Spark, this is kinda where I'm leaning. Sounds like your coil might be on it's way out or the condenser is getting iffy. You should have a fat blue spark that looks like lightning and has a loud, audible SNAP to it. If you don't, I'd start looking at the ignition system.

Lastly, how's your battery? This sounds exactly like when my original generator died and I had no idea. As the battery started to draw down the machine would lose power, the governor seemed like it stopped working and when mowing with my flail the machine would bog down like crazy.

Replaced the generator with a new alternator, problem solved. But the symptoms were similar in that the spark looked weak. Check your battery as well.
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:57 04/25/22) Try this:

Grab a piece of brake line the same size as your fuel line. Run a pony tank up away from the exhaust and see if your problem persists. If you think it's fuel related, that could confirm or deny your thoughts.

Otherwise, how old is the coil? condenser? Have you tried checking your spark once it's warmed up and you begin to have these issues?

Air, fuel, spark, timing. Those are what you need to run. The timing shouldn't change with weather to cause the machine to die. So that leaves air, fuel, spark.

Check your air filter, though I doubt it's the issue given your previous posts.

Others have suggested checking for vapor lock, this is why I mentioned trying a pony tank. It removes your entire fuel system up to the carb and replaces it with one that's known good.

Spark, this is kinda where I'm leaning. Sounds like your coil might be on it's way out or the condenser is getting iffy. You should have a fat blue spark that looks like lightning and has a loud, audible SNAP to it. If you don't, I'd start looking at the ignition system.

Lastly, how's your battery? This sounds exactly like when my original generator died and I had no idea. As the battery started to draw down the machine would lose power, the governor seemed like it stopped working and when mowing with my flail the machine would bog down like crazy.

Replaced the generator with a new alternator, problem solved. But the symptoms were similar in that the spark looked weak. Check your battery as well.


I like the pony tank idea. Temp related.

However, regarding electrical..would outside temp affect the alternator or battery performance? And, what is the best way to test the battery or alternator for this issue?
 
(quoted from post at 23:11:42 04/25/22)
(quoted from post at 17:06:57 04/25/22) Try this:

Grab a piece of brake line the same size as your fuel line. Run a pony tank up away from the exhaust and see if your problem persists. If you think it's fuel related, that could confirm or deny your thoughts.

Otherwise, how old is the coil? condenser? Have you tried checking your spark once it's warmed up and you begin to have these issues?

Air, fuel, spark, timing. Those are what you need to run. The timing shouldn't change with weather to cause the machine to die. So that leaves air, fuel, spark.

Check your air filter, though I doubt it's the issue given your previous posts.

Others have suggested checking for vapor lock, this is why I mentioned trying a pony tank. It removes your entire fuel system up to the carb and replaces it with one that's known good.

Spark, this is kinda where I'm leaning. Sounds like your coil might be on it's way out or the condenser is getting iffy. You should have a fat blue spark that looks like lightning and has a loud, audible SNAP to it. If you don't, I'd start looking at the ignition system.

Lastly, how's your battery? This sounds exactly like when my original generator died and I had no idea. As the battery started to draw down the machine would lose power, the governor seemed like it stopped working and when mowing with my flail the machine would bog down like crazy.

Replaced the generator with a new alternator, problem solved. But the symptoms were similar in that the spark looked weak. Check your battery as well.


I like the pony tank idea. Temp related.

However, regarding electrical..would outside temp affect the alternator or battery performance? And, what is the best way to test the battery or alternator for this issue?

A quick update, on Tuesday evening it was relatively warm where Inlive in SC. Despite that, I ran my tractor, without any PTO use, for over 2 hours dragging/moving telephone/light poles. The engine never once sputtered or stalled and I have not done anything to the tractor since i started this thread on the forum. Can a tractor engine temp really change that much by running the pto and have that much effect on whatever is the cause (boiling gas/fuel line, coil, battery???)
 
Running the pto will make the engine work a little harder than without Then depending on what your running with the pto that also plays a role.
 
(quoted from post at 18:20:20 04/28/22) Running the pto will make the engine work a little harder than without Then depending on what your running with the pto that also plays a role.

I run a bush hog, tiller and 6 ft finish mower off the pto amd none can make it 20mins without shutting down on a 70 degree or warmer day
 
Another thought; while running a bush hog or finishing mower your also using more fuel, if you have a slightly plugged up sediment bowl or an obstruction in your line you actually may be running out of gas when you it dies, immemdielty loosen the drain on the carberator and see if fuel flows freely out of the drain. 7/16 wrench. Also make a note and see if the sediment bowl is full or not. How crusty is your fuel tank?
Another thought, I have a temp gun I got from harbor freight.. you could shoot the engine and see what the temp is without the pto running vs. with it running a bush hog directly after it dies.
Just a few last thoughts.
 
For what it's worth, mine ran fine under no load. I could drive the thing all over picking up rocks that grew over winter, sticks, etc...

The moment I went to use the 6' flail mower is when my issues started.

Best way to check alternator output and battery is with a multimeter. (Or a battery load tester if you have one just for the battery) With the alternator you're looking for 13.9-14.8v or so.

Battery at rest should hover around 13v.

This post was edited by shaeff on 05/04/2022 at 05:38 am.
 

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