3PL Float modification?

charisma1986

New User
hi guys, just got my tractor running, and i was trying out my grader attachment.

i was wondering if anybody has made some sort of float modification so that the blade will maintain it's height? i was having a hell of a time keeping the blade on the ground without it digging in.
 
What kind of tractor?

I've seen guys fit a blade with a gauge wheel or skid shoe to keep them from digging in too much. If you don't want to go that far, going slow and practicing is all I can suggest.
 
I think you are looking for position control, not float. Float will along it to dig in, just as it does now. Position control would keep the arms close to the height you set them. One of many discussions about this and a cure. "Zane Thang" is no longer available as Zane passed. There are alternatives as you will find if you read this thread and search for "Zane Thang".

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1524357&highlight=zane+thang

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 01/05/2022 at 04:33 am.
 
ah sorry it is a tea20. yes i was thinking practice may be the only option. if i run a gauge wheel or skid shoe then i might not get the depth of cut that i need. i'll have more of a think.


This post was edited by charisma1986 on 01/05/2022 at 06:09 pm.
 
I installed this kit on my Ferguson TEA-20.........:)
Three point lift no longer drifts.:)
Bob..

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You do not want position control with the blade on the rear. When the front tires hit the first bump the blade will dig in. When the rear tires hit that same bump they will cause the blade to raise and dump more dirt on the bump. Try it again and the bump gets bigger until you have a roller coaster driveway.

Instead, shorten the upper link so the blade drags instead of digging in. Put the lift control lever all the way down and let the blade scrape. When you near the end of the driveway start lifting the control lever until the blade just starts to lift and leave the control lever there until the dirt being dragged has spread, then finish lifting the blade.
 
I have found that if you run the blade backwards it works pretty good. Just don't try to backup with it like that. This system
how ever doesn't too good if using it for snow removal that's really deep.
 
Hello from Ohio, I've been plowing snow with a back blade for 35 yrs...And every spring i had to rake the slag out of the yard back in the
driveway.. Then i got a solution from Jerry MT. on this site. mount a length of 4 in. pipe across the cutting edge of the blade.It will
slide right over the slag with out cutting in and take the snow and leave the slag...cut my plowing time in half as you dont have to
regulate the blade- Just drop it and go....You can bolt it to the cutting edge;I made mine to quick disconnect as I use the blade for other
things....Luck to you....Ed
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I Think if you were to use a guide wheel then replace the top link with a chain so when the front end does go up the chain would go slack
letting the wheel do its job. Ive been using a backblade since the late 70s on dads tractor and now for the past 20 years my TO30 and
to35 have been doing my work, backblade and also front Dearborn plow operated by the lift arms and cable system. The Zane thing is a
really neat device that will give you height control not depth control that Mr. Ferguson invented for making uniform furows.

I really like the pipe/blade idea for still being able to plow but not dig up the ground

Tom
 

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