Tea20 Head Casket

kaesark

Member
Hi
Having completed a full restore on my TEA20 I now have the slightest of water escaping back left corner of the cylinder head. I have not re torqued the head since restore so that will be first step. My question is should I have used a casket sealant on the head casket????
 
Quote:
My question is should I have used a gasket sealant on the head casket????

Note*

I have always used a sealer as per the PERKINS 3 cylinder Diesel AD3.152 Engine assembly suggestion when replacing a HEAD GASKET on a TEA-20 Tractor.

Bob..Owner TEA-20...MF 35 X

cvphoto103490.jpg
 
I suppose you might desire to use a sealant on your casket. It might either keep the stink in a bit longer or maybe the bugs out. . .
Happy Halloween.
My Fergy manual say's to use cup grease on the head gasket. I had to inquire here to find out what that is. Wheel bearing grease and that being the short fiber drum brake in nature. I used it and the gasket was sealed in place in about 25 minutes. I had to remove the head after that and the Gasket ripped in 1/2. Not too sure how well a casket might seal though. . .
 

Are you absolutely sure the water is leaking from the head gasket and not from the water distribution tube blanking plate ?
 
Hi Charles
Yes very sure, it's the opposite
corner. Tiny leak but annoying none
the less more so as at the time of
putting together I thought about a
gasket sealant but didn't do so as
it's a copper gasket and thought I
would be ok. Hopefully with a retorque
it might come right. If it doesn't
then another gasket and more work for
me to do.
 
I just pulled a head off a block back from a rebuilder. (Long painful story) The gasket ripped in 1/2 and when scraping off the remnants from the engine block, I noticed an odor of machining oil. While I do have a qt can of old school sulpher based thread cutting oil I believe that I will go back to the thin layer of wheel bearing grease as was explained in the old school manual to allow the gasket to move around while being tightened. That gasket is on an engine and with about 85 hours of run time shows no sign of leakage.
 

Re torquing the head is a vital step Kaesark , first one a few hours after installation and before starting , at least one more after the first few hours of running . I check the studs after 20 hrs and then every time I have the tank off for valve adjustment .
It's amazing just how loose they become . When i forst got it my FE35 had studs so loose I suspect I could have undone one or two by hand .
 
Thanks Charles
What would be your thoughts on re using
the gasket but this time with a gasket
sealant.
 
(quoted from post at 11:32:11 10/13/21) Thanks Charles
What would be your thoughts on re using
the gasket but this time with a gasket
sealant.

Not Charles, but my thought is how much do you enjoy pulling the cylinder head? :) If you really, really enjoy it, then reuse the gasket as there's a good chance you'll get to do it over again. :cry:
BillL
 

Suck it and see Kaesark .
Re torque the studs and keep an eye on it . Some modern copper gaskets are not annealed correctly and are too hard to seal easily . Grease or sealant can help but they really shouldn't be necessary . The heat from the block and subsequent cooling over a few runs will soften the copper and relax the stress on it , this might be why it's leaking . It's just a pest to have to keep removing the tank each time . A mower tank might make things easier while you look into it further .
 
Quote:
Having completed a full restore on my TEA20 I now have the slightest of water escaping back left corner of the cylinder head. I have not re torqued the head since restore so that will be first step. My question is should I have used a casket sealant on the head casket????

May I ask, what was the final solution kaesark ?

Bob..
 
Hi John
Have yet address the problem but will re torque the head as a first step this weekend hopefully.
 

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