oil leaks,,what to do,,,,,,

Buggyboy

Member
Well,,I decided to go ahead and tear down the engine on the TO20 as one cylinder only had 25# compression and the other three were not good to write home about. The rings were stuck on 2 of the pistons, so glad I decided to bring it down and re-ring it. Rod bearings looked good (.010 oversize) but they will also get new bearings. Mains also have good clearances, (.002) but not wanting to do a complete tear down just yet. Got everything cleaned up waiting on parts,,so I started to do a little brick and claw hammer body work on the fenders and now got them ready for some bondo work,,,,,,lol.
I had removed both fenders for the body work and paint and notice that both outer axle gaskets have leaked some oil,and appears the oil leaked thru the bolt holes,, doesn't look fresh but did leak at some point. It is the gasket next to the brake assemblies on both sides. I had planned to open and check out the brake shoes but not really wanting to do a complete tear down of the axles for those old leaks,,,,Can somebody offer up some hints on YEA or NAY on how to approach this issue??? The rest of tractor gaskets look good except for the PTO may have also leaked some in the past,,,? According to PO, the tractor had only been parked for 5 months,,,?
It's ironic that the PO told me he parked the tractor due to a BAD rear main seal leak as the front seal was leaking as well,,,! These other oil leaks do look real old tho,,?
 
Well since youre doing everything else why not work on the rear axles. The big difference between the TO30 and TO20 axle set up is the 30 has inner
and outer seals. If you got to the parts site here under drivetrain look for the sure seals. The job will be drain hydraulic oil, remove axle assembly,
insert and set the sure-seals, replace gaskets put back together. I think under $25 for what you need. The picture shows how the TO30 has the inner
seal.
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Part 11
 

Hey Tom H,,Thanks for that pic,,it don't look like too big a project, so I'm gonna get after it and order the parts. I DID not see the brake shoes in the Dwg,,,?
 

I'd suggest getting the engine back together and working again before you tear into those axles.

The PTO seal replacement requires draining the trans and differential gear oil which is eight gallons around ten or twelve dollars per gallon. Do the PTO seal if you tear down the trans to get at the front trans seals that often leak or if the PTO seal is really badly leaking. I haven't taken apart the rear axles on any of my TO35s but I've seen videos of both Fergusons and the Ford Ns and it's a big job, proceed with caution.
 
FERGUSON PARTS BOOK
Form No. 693 041 M2

I purchased two of the above Parts Books off e-bay....
Parts suppliers of MF & Ferguson Tractors here in Canada have a cross reference to the original Ferguson Parts #'s

Bob..
cvphoto103245.jpg


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On the engine oil leaks, the front seal is easy enough, just take the front cover
off. You need to look the governor over while you are in there, a known problem
source!

The rear main is not accessible without removing the engine. But! getting the
blow by, crankcase pressurizing will be greatly reduced, so the engine oil leaks
will be much relieved. Also be sure to thoroughly clean the breather tube.

The gaskets on the rear axles are also shims. You can seal them up with silicone
or your favorite gasket sealer. But be sure to check the axle end play when you
do the final assembly. There should be no binding between the axles (too tight)
and no end play (too loose).

With the oil level is correct, (to the bottom bolt hole of the side inspection
covers), oil is not up to the axles.

The PTO seal can be replaced without draining the gearcase. Remove the front
wheels or get it running and nose it down in a ditch.
 
(quoted from post at 07:29:59 10/03/21) Theyre in the brake section of the manual. Email me Ill send you a link
Tom

Hey thanks Tom,,I don't have the parts manual. Sending you an email. Joe r
 

Hey Steve, Yes Thanks for the tips! I do plan to replace the front seal also. I have already replaced the rear main seal as it was the main reason the PO split the tractor when I bought it.
I can detect a slight minimum of axle end play and think it will be OK. Guess I could set up some dial indicators to see exactly what it is but I'ma gonna think on that one some more,,,LOL
I had read somewhere of the high probabilaty of the vent tube plugging up and causing all kinds of meaness,,so,,I have cut it right at the valve cover and made a set of bolted flanges to be able to remove the tube and clean without having to do all the rigamaroll with almost tearing the front of tractor to get to it to clean,,,,!!
That is a Great idea on the PTO seal replacement! More than one way to skin a cat besides,,,,UMMMM,,,never mind,,,, Ha, ha,ha
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:30 10/04/21) Email should be open now

Well Chit,,Tom,,guess I just ain't holding my mouth just right,,! How do you send an email om this site? I clicked on your Profile but email not listed and PM's are disabled. Tell me more.
Should I just post my email on here?
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:53 10/04/21) Quote:
I DID not see the brake shoes in the Dwg,,,?


Bob..
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto103334.jpg>

Hey John Deere D,,,,well I'll be a whatchamacallit,,,they was there all the time wasn't they,,,??? LOL,,,,,
 
To shim the rear axles, try taking one shim out at a time until the axles bind,
then add one back so they turn freely.

If too tight, with the trans in neutral, both axles will turn the same direction
and feel tight.

When right, they will turn free and smooth in opposite directions, no binding, no
clunky feel.
 

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