Homemade Zane Thang not working - TO20

xfratboy

Member
So, I built a homemade Zane Thang using some designs on the forum. Everything seems to be constructed pretty close to the instructions. Broke a bolt off on the lift arm trying to mount the offset box, so that slowed me down some. ( FYI, that bolt is 7/16" 20 on the thread size and 1" long). Had to retread the hole after drilling out the bolt but all good now. However, I don't see any noticeable difference in the lift not drifting up or down. I was seriously bummed. I'd be curious if anyone else experienced similar results or have any ideas or suggestions. Will update with pictures tomorrow.
 
Not to gloat, but my homemade worked well. Assuming you made it exactly according to the plans, make sure the bolt with the spring going into the lift arm pivot point is tight and is oriented correctly. The idea is that as the lift arm moves, the eccentric bolted to it will rotate with it moving the control. As the lift arm rises, it should move the control downward, lowering the lift until the lift arm stops moving. As the lift arm drifts, it further moves the control as you would do it yourself manually without the Zane thang. See pic to make sure your geometry is correct (or close)
mvphoto82135.jpg
 
All my measurements are pretty spot on but it just won't hold. Still drifts up or down. I might try and get a slightly larger spring and try that. Outside of trying a stronger spring, I don't really know what else to do. Any recommendation would be welcomed.


mvphoto82389.jpg


mvphoto82390.jpg
 
All controllers I have ever seen work....none have a SPRING...
This includes the controller on my Ferguson TEA-20

Bob..
cvphoto102431.jpg
 
Sounds like the friction pad between the eccentric and the mount is slipping too much. I used cork, not sure what you have. What is happening? if the lift arm moves after you've set the control and the eccentric does not (during the "drift"), either there isn't enough friction to move the eccentric, or your control is very stiff. The purpose of the friction pad is to allow you to move the control, setting your height, yet the friction will then allow the eccentric to move the control after that.
 
On a further note, it looks like the part bolted to the control is too low for the eccentric to push it. It won't have enough leverage. Try moving it up to the middle of the control lever. See the position mine is in in the earlier pics.
 
(quoted from post at 01:47:11 09/27/21) Sounds like the friction pad between the eccentric and the mount is slipping too much. I used cork, not sure what you have. What is happening? if the lift arm moves after you've set the control and the eccentric does not (during the "drift"), either there isn't enough friction to move the eccentric, or your control is very stiff. The purpose of the friction pad is to allow you to move the control, setting your height, yet the friction will then allow the eccentric to move the control after that.

That might be part of the problem. I used a cork-rubber gasket that I had (felpro material). However, I might have screwed up because I painted over the gasket when I painted the box. It's got almost no friction. The paint seems to have created a smooth surface to the cork. I'll pull it off and stick on a new one.
 
Quote:

Outside of trying a stronger spring, I don't really know what else to do...

Note*
The position controller has to have a feed back connection of some type......
What makes you think a SPRING will work as a feed back..?

If you are willing to remove the spring and install a link, I would post the dimension's of the link.

Respectfully
Bob...
cvphoto102501.jpg


cvphoto102504.jpg
 
What makes you think a SPRING will work as a feed back..?

If you are willing to remove the spring and install a link, I would post the dimension's of the link.

Respectfully
Bob...
<

I followed the instructions found in this how-to which has been posted on this forum in numerous places and with numerous positive reviews... But it is not working for me:
http://fergusontractors.org/nfs/wp-content/uploads/technical-articles/Position-Control-for-20-30.pdf

John Deere D -- I do have a link. Maybe you didn't notice it in my picture. The link dimension is 4".

This post was edited by xfratboy on 09/27/2021 at 08:16 am.
 
Quote:
John Deere D -- I do have a link. Maybe you didn't notice it in my picture. The link dimension is 4.

My mistake. Please except my apologies xfratboy

Bob...
 
Well, i changed out the cork gasket and moved the bracket further up on the lever as was earlier recommended, but still it doesn't want to work. Lift position will continue to drift up or down. The compression spring tension does not seem to affect things all that much....just makes the lever harder to move. I tried. Pretty much a waste of time. Not sure if I have something else going on, but I definitely am calling this a bust. Didn't work.
 
So what is happening? If the lift arm is moving and eccentric is not, it's either a friction issue (lack of) or the control lever is too difficult to move. Pull the link off to see how hard it is to move the control lever. Too stiff may hamper the eccentric moving the control. The arrangement is a pretty simple mechanism, so troubleshooting should be fairly easy.
 

I don't know what you're referring to when you say "eccentric." I've been called this before but I think you're referring to something different.
 

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