TEA 2085 losing power

PTF

New User
Hi Everyone. I'm just new to this forum and have a question. My Ferguson 2085 seams to lose power after being under load after about an hour. Lately is seems to be lacking horsepower but I manage to get by.
After bush hogging at reduced horse power, about an hour later it really starts to die to the point where I can't continue. I park it in the shade for several hours and then I'm good to go for another short
while. Sounds like it is somehow related to heat, but not sure what. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Runs great for an hour and then looses power?
Ignition coil comes to mind easy enough.
Fuel or other should act up a lot faster than that.
Just for the shiggles of it, pull the coil wire and check spark cold.
Next time it gets hot, recheck that spark.
BOTH times it should jump a 1/4 inch gap of that test plug you have.
You don't have a test plug? Mebbe you should.
Be sure the test plug is also grounded mid body, a jumper wire/cable should do just fine.
That's my 3 cents.
 

Coil as Bruce suggests or the condenser , these can also fail slowly with heat . But i really would tripple check the fuel flow .
Otherwise a vacuum leak might be opening up with heat expansion . Typically this happens at the carb to manifold flange or manifold to block face . Next time it starts to falter spray some WD40 at these points , if the engine speeds up you've found the trouble .
 
Need to be ready to catch it in the act.

Spark would be the first thing to check. Should get a 1/4 inch spark to ground at the plug end of each wire.

Check the point gap, check the distributor shaft for side play. A worn distributor will not hold the points gap consistently.

A properly working coil will run about the same temperature as the surrounding components. If it is too hot to hold, it is failing. Is this still 6 volt? If it's been changed to 12v it may have the wrong coil or coil/resistor combo.

Condensers are known for being bad out of the box. If you have an old one, try it.

Lastly, be ready to check the fuel flow to the carb. When it fails, quickly pull the drain plug in the bottom of the carb bowl. Should get a constant flow, not slow to a drip or stop. If there is a flow problem, there may be a restriction inside the tank, the sediment bowl screen, or the screen inside the fuel inlet elbow at the carb. If there is an inline filter, that may be the problem. Even if new, they do not work well with gravity systems. Also be sure the cap is vented, try loosening it, see if the flow improves. And be sure the fuel line is routed as far from the exhaust as practical. It should be a steel line, not copper. Steel is less heat conductive.

Have you ever serviced the wire mesh filter element inside the air cleaner housing? It is often overlooked and gets solid packed with dirt over the years. Not an easy job, but if it can't be soaked and blown clean, it will have to come apart and be cleaned or the mesh replaced.
 
Thank you Bruce, Charles, and Steve for your very informative suggestions. I'm going out today to purchase a spark tester! I will start with that and let you all know how it goes.
 
Hi Everyone. I tried a spark tester as suggested. With a cold engine I most definitely had a 1/4 spark. After the tractor got hot, I shut it of to connect the spark tester, and unfortunately after that I was unable to start it again. After boosting the battery the following day it started no problem. So at this point I don't appear to be any further ahead.
On Another note, quite some time ago I purchased a carb kit to rebuild the carb because it had a slight leak. The dealer gave me the wrong kit, and his sources are unable to locate one. Has anyone ever heard of a Zenith 28G-2 carburetor fitted on a Furguson TEA 2085? The dealer is telling me it is the wrong carburetor for that tractor. Any thoughts anyone? Thank you.
 
PTF, You say the battery had to be charged to restart it? That just could be your problem. Is the battery charging system working? Do you see the ammeter showing a charge when running?
 
(quoted from post at 02:18:02 09/01/21) iHas anyone ever heard of a Zenith 28G-2 carburetor fitted on a Furguson TEA 2085? The dealer is telling me it is the wrong carburetor for that tractor. Any thoughts anyone? Thank you.

That particular model of Zenith was fitted at the factory in Banner Lane Coventry to the last few thousand Fergusons that left the production line .
Your dealer is used to seeing the 24T as was fitted to almost 450, 00 of them but he is wrong .
Look for carburettor kits made for the UK made FE , MF 35 or MF 135 tractors .

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221237012033?hash=item3382c0e641:g:MaQAAOxy7nNTVw08
 
Thank you very much Charles. I see it is available. Any idea why mine has a 2 after the 28G?
 
You may have a point there Jim. The ammeter hasn't worked for several years. The tractor in my opinion has been MacGyver'd through the years. What sort of amperage should I be reading? I will pick up a new
ammeter. This tractor has been converted to 12 volt.
 

Hard to say , some variations were fitted with different jets for work in higher altitudes , the 2 may designate this . In any case they are very uniform in manufacture with very few variations so generic rebuild kits work well in them .
Setting the float level is a trial and requires some Heath Robinson contraptions to set .
There are fuel filters in the tank fitted to the tap , make sure these are clear .
 
PTF, On a properly working charging system you should see the ammeter show 5 amps or more right after startup and the engine revved up enough to excite the alternator. Then after the battery is recharged the meter will only show a couple of amps which is your ignition draw.
 

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