Which T??-20 Should I Get

Brian-S · Aug 23, 2021

Good Day All,

New guy here.

I've have a choice of two T??-20s. Both are in good working and similar cosmetic condition. Which one should I chose? Thanks.

#1
-1948
-Continental engine
-large front wheels
-pto upgrade
-grey paint

#2
-1948
-Standard engine
-small front wheels
-paint is red hood, grey chassis (original ?)

This post was edited by Brian-S on 08/23/2021 at 10:28 am.

Brian l · Aug 23, 2021

Go with #1. Continental is a better engine

jvin248 · Aug 23, 2021

.

I'd go with the Continental Z134 engine (that's what I have in three TO-35s)

And what were the PTO upgrades? Does it have the live PTO of the later ones? If so that's a good addition.

.

Brian-S · Aug 23, 2021

(quoted from post at 15:15:47 08/23/21) .

I'd go with the Continental Z134 engine (that's what I have in three TO-35s)

And what were the PTO upgrades? Does it have the live PTO of the later ones? If so that's a good addition.

.

The original pto shaft has been replaced with an after-market shaft that meet current standard (larger) pto standards.

Thanks

Tom H. · Aug 23, 2021

Go with the TO20. Continental engine and American electronics. I have a TE20 the Lucas electric stuff is difficult to get here ad costs a pretty penny.

miner09 · Aug 23, 2021

Buy a TO 35. Better tractor with Live PTO more Horsepower and could have
Power Steering and newer. Built 1955 thru 1960.Or get a MF35.About same
money and you will be happier with either 35.

Steve@Advance · Aug 23, 2021

What are your intentions? A working tractor or show?

Consider the age, if it hasn't already been gone through, be ready to replace the wiring, gas tank,
wheels probably rusted out

If for show, either will work, the TO will be easier to get parts if you are in the US.

If you are looking for a working tractor, a TO 35 is a much more refined model, a Deluxe will have
power steering, live PTO, other improvements. Still the age factor, lots can be wrong.

As for the color, as far as I know all 20's and 30's were solid gray. Not until the 35's did they
get into greens and reds.

John Deere D · Aug 23, 2021

Continent and Country you reside in...?

Bob. Owner TEA-20 Standard Engine. Canada......

John Deere D · Aug 23, 2021

I believe the USA would have plenty of Parts for the TO-20 / TO-30

Canada was a big importer of the TEA-20 with the Standard Engine.

I happen to be partial to Engines with FREE STANDING WET LINERS...

Bob..

Brian-S · Aug 23, 2021

(quoted from post at 19:35:33 08/23/21) Continent and Country you reside in...?

Bob. Owner TEA-20 Standard Engine. Canada......

I'm in Camrose, Alberta, Canada.

I've been studing both engines: is there a longevity difference between the two?

This post was edited by Brian-S on 08/23/2021 at 08:27 pm.

John Deere D · Aug 23, 2021

With all due respect to all whom add their knowledge to this topic...

It's your $$$$$$'s Brian-S...do your home work, check into parts availability, etc,etc,

The Standard Engine 6-volt factory original ...the starter is very costly...if you can locate one..?????

You can NOT install a factory 12 volt starter onto a Factory shipped 6 Volt Standard Engine....Transmission housings are designed differently..

There were NEW 12 Volt starters made in Australia to fit the factory 6 volt Engines......

I'm partial to the free standing wet liners ........thus I'm a STANDARD Engine fan..

NOT a Continental Engine fan..

Bob..Tea-20 Owner.....My go to Tractor is a 1963 MF 35 X 3 cylinder Perkins Diesel......

Brian-S · Aug 23, 2021

The tractor will be used around my small acreage for mowing, moving snow and hauling a trailer. I've been looking at the T??-20s because they seem to be powerful enough to what I need but simple to work on and inexpensive to buy.

John Deere D · Aug 23, 2021

I'm in Gundy Alberta Canada...60 miles west of Grande Prairie on the AB / BC border

As used parts are getting scarce...I own three Parts TEA-20's Tractors. With STANDARD ENINES

Bob..

Brian-S · Aug 23, 2021

Bob - Some Questions:

Is there any significant performance difference between the two engines?

Is the Standard engine considered reliable?

The TEA-20 I'm looking at has already been converted to 12V but I assume the original starter is still there; just running hot. I have done research already and it seems to me that parts for both motors are generally available. Given that I will be putting low hours on what ever I buy I'm assuming that once a part has been replaced/repaired I won't have to worry about it for a very long time.

I've looked at several 35s and 50s but they tend to be considerably more expensive than the 20s and I don't see how they would offer much of a performance increase in my circumstances.

I'm only looking at gas engines. Diesel has issues for my use case and, given the low number of hours i expect to use my tractor, the difference in operating cost is not an issue.

This post was edited by Brian-S on 08/23/2021 at 09:04 pm.

jvin248 · Aug 24, 2021

.

What is the price of each #1/#2 you listed? 35s can be priced just as reasonable as the 20s in my area.

Make sure to get a PTO 'overrunning clutch' from Tractor Supply/etc for that TO20, worth the $90. Otherwise the brush hog inertia can run you through a fence or over a cliff or into a ditch -- the 35s have the live clutch and don't have that problem. The clutch works like the gear dogs in a 10 speed bike that click when you coast.

.

John Deere D · Aug 24, 2021

I have never seen and or read any negative Information, on the SEALING device / surface at the base of the Standard Engines free standing wet liners.

I have never seen and or read any negative information on CRACKS forming in the Engine Block, at the point of contact with the Free Standing Wet Liners and the engine block counter bores

Ask your self, what is the track record of the Continental Engines, as per above ?

Both the Continental and the Standard Engine have concerns with the Governor component of the Engine.

Place a socket on the NUT/ Caps screw that holds the Pulley to the Crankshaft. Remove the distributor Cap.
Rotate crankshaft Clockwise until ROTOR of distributor just starts to move.
Then..
Rotate crankshaft Counter Clockwise until ROTOR of distributor just starts to move.
Get back to the YT group.....I shall let you know if the Timing chain is about to fail on the Standard Engine.
IF the timing chain is badly stretched....the Governor WEIGHTS are mot likely ready to fall off and jam between the crank shaft sprocket and the timing chain.
Bob.Owner of an original since new 1951 Ferguson TEA-20...

Brian-S · Aug 24, 2021

(quoted from post at 07:36:32 08/24/21) .

What is the price of each #1/#2 you listed? 35s can be priced just as reasonable as the 20s in my area.

Make sure to get a PTO 'overrunning clutch'

.

$1500CAN each. Both were being used this year. 35s seem to be about double that.
A pto overunning clutch is on the parts list

This post was edited by Brian-S on 08/24/2021 at 08:33 am.

Brian-S · Aug 24, 2021

(quoted from post at 10:06:00 08/24/21) I have never seen and or read any negative Information, on the SEALING device / surface at the base of the Standard Engines free standing wet liners.

I have never seen and or read any negative information on CRACKS forming in the Engine Block, at the point of contact with the Free Standing Wet Liners and the engine block counter bores

Ask your self, what is the track record of the Continental Engines, as per above ?

Hi Bob,

I've read a bit about the Continental engine block cracks; is it that common? Those engines seem to be everywhere.

The info about the timing chain is excellent; I might get the Standard version just to tap into your expertise

You mentioned earlier about parts getting scarce. Where you referencing Alberta or world wide? Didn't they have a huge number of the Standard version in the U.K. and Australia?

This post was edited by Brian-S on 08/24/2021 at 08:35 am.

John Deere D · Aug 24, 2021

Quote:
You mentioned earlier about parts getting scarce. Where you referencing Alberta or world wide? Didn't they have a huge number of the Standard version in the U.K. and Australia?

The TEA-20's here in Canada have for the most part migrated to Tractor wreckers.....then the Carcasses on to CHINA. Scarp reached $200.00 + dollars a ton..

Brian-S · Aug 24, 2021

(quoted from post at 12:48:56 08/24/21) Quote:

The TEA-20's here in Canada have for the most part migrated to Tractor wreckers.....then the Carcasses on to CHINA. Scarp reached $200.00 + dollars a ton..

I understand.
Besides the running one I'm looking at there is a complete but seized one for $600.

John Deere D · Aug 24, 2021

Quote:
Besides the running one I'm looking at there is a complete but seized one for $600.

Do NOT think twice......get with it and purchase the $600.00 parts Tractor...

I would check to see if both Tractors are of the same FACTORY electrical design???
Factory 6 Volt or Factory 12 Volt..

Bob..

pomester · Aug 24, 2021

When I see "mowing" as part of the job description, I side with the posters suggesting a TO-35/MF35 w/live power take-off. Not all TO-35's have it (I don't know about MF's) so one needs to check carefully. The 3pt system is also better than the 20/30's. I have a TO-35 w/live power, it's a nice tractor. Power steering would make it better.

Other than that, I have a TO-30 which I like a lot for dragging carts/wagons/weed sprayers/etc around. Similar to the TO-20's. Nimble, easy steering, easy on and off.

TE vs TO, it's a crap shoot after 70 years. What maintenance has been performed, what's about to die (as mentioned, the starter on certain TE's seems a real challenge) - if there's any sign of water/coolant in the oil of the TO, that would be a red flag.

If either of the units have an auxiliary transmission, that is a big plus all else being equal.

Condition of tires and rims is a large consideration, a good tractor needs all in good condition and if rear tires and/or rims need replaced it's possible to spend the purchase price of the tractor on those items.

Good luck
David

Brian-S · Aug 25, 2021

I went to see the TEA this evening. Turns out it wasn't a '48 as advertised; it's a '53 with factory 12V. I bought it immediately!

I'll put together a survey of the unit after I've had time to go over it; probably on the weekend.

TEA319385

John Deere D · Aug 25, 2021

Well done Sir..........

Bob

Brian-S · Aug 25, 2021

(quoted from post at 23:09:45 08/25/21) Well done Sir..........

Bob

Thanks Bob.

I forgot to check the motor number (it's parked at a friends farm out-of-town) but I would expect it to be an 85mm version, correct?

This post was edited by Brian-S on 08/25/2021 at 09:58 pm.

Which T??-20 Should I Get

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