External oil filter on TO20

Buggyboy

Member
Well,,I have managed to put out a few more fires on the home front and am just about ready to get back on my TO20 web crack repairs and hopefully start the re-assembly of the engine,,,(fingers crossed)
I started second guessing myself and am again looking at how to pressure test the cooling water jacket to prove my welding repairs before proceeding with the assembly. I set the crank in the bearings to check if any flexing of the block after weld repairs and the crank spins by hand with the main caps torqued to spec, so that issue is laid to rest.
I see where new radiator caps are spec'ed at 5# so,,one and one half times design (7.5 Lbs) should be plenty,,,right? Dang, my house water pressure is bout 38#, so a regulator "Might" need to be used,,,surely these blocks can withstand 38#,,,??? I guess I could fashion a 1/2" water column bout 7 feet high,,,,??

My "OTHER" request for info is back to the dang oil filter relocation to external application. I thought the guy that posted here some time ago,,had a DANG GOOD IDEA, but there seems to NOT be much interest,,,,wonder WHY,,??
Comments,,??
 
With GOOD oil maintenance partial flow filter systems work fine for years, so why go to all the work to change it? LOUSY oil maintenance will kill any engine, no matter
what filter system it has. Far as your coolant test pressure, 10-15 PSI would be enough, and an air pressure regulator would work, that's what I've used..
 
Here is article on oil filters. May be of interest.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29026/engine-bypass-filtration
 
After your repairs, you can also drill a 1/16 hole into the flat area of the T-stat. This hole acts as an air bleed to release any trapped
air behind the thermostat when initially firing the engine up, it also allows slight fluid movement during engine operation that eases
temperature fluctuations as the stat open and closes during engine operation.
 
It's going to be hard to pressure test it without the head on and torqued, which would mean wasting a head gasket.

But I would at least stand the block upright and fill it with water, see if anything leaks. Let it
sit overnight in case there is a very small leak.

You did replace the liner orings?

The pressure on the system is very low, the radiator is the weak link. It's the thermal cycling that
tends to open cracks and stress repairs, hard to recreate that on the engine stand.
 

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