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New Bolts?

W

willor

Member
I am changing out main support bearings and rod connector bearings on my TO35 Ferguson. Should I also replace the cap and support bolts? If so, does anyone know where I can get them online? I didn't see the bolts on this site, I just saw the the bearings.
 
I would not replace them.

It's a low revving engine, overbuilt for endurance.

Rod bolts are specially designed for the rod. If they are replaced, best to have the rods reconditioned after the new bolts are in.
 
Thank you

Also does anyone have experience with engine bearings from this site? They are a lot less expensive than the Agwest/agco price but I wonder why? They say it is a full set fir the engine but I cant tell if that is for all four rods or only one
 
A few years ago I redid a TO-20 engine. I priced out parts all over and finally ordered from this site with a price matching.
The bearings are a full set, you need your under-size to order, and a few years ago those were a good quality. Now?
 
Thanks

Do I need to measure the Crankshaft and rod connector journals to know what my undersize measurement is? What is the best way to determine undesize?

I have pulled off the oil pan and everything seems snug and tight except the last cylinder - it has a little wiggle up and down on the Rod Connect bearing.
 
You should remove the rod enough to get an east/west and north/south measurement.
I know. Too hard.
IF you are absolutely sure your crank is in great shape, I would be tempted to get plasti-gage and starting with the appropriate size, see what you have.
Mains are the same game. Plasti-gage works good enough for a dirty rebuild and might even work long term with this slow revving engine.
Key on new bearings is putting it together and turning the crank as you go. Too tight? Might try a different bearing.
 
So buy standard size and if too loose buy the next size up on the undersize until I get it right? Anyway to tell (Markings or measurement) what size bearings are on it now?
 
current bearings might be stamped. Original sizes are generally not marked. Test fitting bearings might be a spendy proposition.
Plastigage reduces the guessing game. It comes in 3 different sizes and is much cheaper than swapping bearings.
 
Finally found time to pull the loose-fitting Rod Connector cap and bearing on my TO35 continental engine and discovered the following (See Pictures). First time looking at this end of the engine. I know that old bearing is shot, but I don't know what to make of the crank and the cap surfaces. What do you guys think? I suspect this means pulling the crank and resurfacing it along with new rods, bearings and pistons. Any thoughts on how I should proceed?
 
No, never try that!

The crank will not be worn evenly. Putting an undersize bearing in without turning the crank will be too tight and result in disaster!
 
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