Fiber Thrust washer on TO20,,,??

Desertjoe

Member
Since I believe I have resolved the cracked web issues with my TO20,,I started to read up on the seals, ETC, on lashing up the crankshaft and I see where some TO20's were fitted with a "fiber Thrust Washer" between the crank machined register and the machined register on the front main bearing. This when using the later TO30 main bearings without the flange,,,,?
Does anybody have the part number for that part? I did look in the YT parts for the TO20's but no luck there,,,?
 
(quoted from post at 11:49:24 06/02/21) Since I believe I have resolved the cracked web issues with my TO20,,I started to read up on the seals, ETC, on lashing up the crankshaft and I see where some TO20's were fitted with a "fiber Thrust Washer" between the crank machined register and the machined register on the front main bearing. This when using the later TO30 main bearings without the flange,,,,?
Does anybody have the part number for that part? I did look in the YT parts for the TO20's but no luck there,,,?

Well,,they tell me I like to talk too much ,,,but I did NOT do the double post on purpose,,,,, :D
How do I delete one of the double posts,??
 
This is old Harry Ferguson part number Z129C-202 Washer, Thrust bearing to crank.I think that is what you are talking about.
Here is Sealed Power part number for Thrust washer set #MB-1403W as used with flanged main bearing set.
 
(quoted from post at 21:07:29 06/03/21) Send me an email I can help with part numbers

Tom

Hey Tom H. How does one contact other members via Email or PM? I clicked on your name, thinking it would highlight your email but no ,,,?? What's odd is that I ,,disassembled the crank assy and it had the thrust bearing WITHOUT the flange, SO,,I ordered same. BUT there was NO thrust washer between the crank and the block machined surfaces,,,?? According to two different books,,,the TO30 and TO20 used same crank, altho,, the TO30 thrust was controlled by said fiber washer,,,??
I have no idea how long this engine ran with no thrust control for the PO,,,maybe why it chunked the con rod,,,??
 

OK, Mr. J,,,I had searched hi and low for a good block at a reasonable price,,even looked at buying 3 complete engines thinking that was how I would have to proceed but they wound up WAY too expensive with NO guarantee for this guy that tends to be some "thrifty",,,,I finally decided I was gonna have to repair this block or start looking at a replacement engine from a different type of tractor,,,?
I was lucky that I met an older welder that had been in the business for 50 years and I took the block to him. I had already V'ed out the 9 crackes and after he studied the block he goes and brings a 10# box of "EUTECTIC CASTALIN" , Electrode 240 AC/DC 1/8. He tells me,,"You can weld it yourself with this rod" He suggested I run my Lincoln 240 (Tombstone) at AC and at 60 amps. I go home and set up the Lincoln as he suggested and then I practice on an old cast iron pump case,,,,,and,,,and,,,,I am friggin AMAZED at how this rod runs and ties into the parent metal,,,!!! After a few practice runs, on the old pump case,,,,,I try the Ferguson block and the only'ist thing I did not like is it tends to build up too much and makes for LOTS of grinding down,!! I finally order a 3" X 1/2" rough cutting grinding wheel with 3/8" arbor and I cut a 3/8" allthread to use on my drill and that works many wonderfulls for grinding down my poor weldong,,,BUT,,, The gouge outs are getting filled up and the rod is tying to the block really well,,!! And at these LOW settings of the welder,,there is hardly any heat generated on the block, fact is,,I can touch the weld right after running a 1/2" long bead on the webs. After getting the grinding done, I then made a sanding tool with 2 pieces if 3/4" plywood glued together and chucked on my lathe to 3 1/4" OD, then glued some 60 grit sandpaper on it and did the final grinding of the block with my drill. The whole project took a long time but the repairs look great!! I'm debating whether to rig up a "Test" of about 10-15 pounds,,? I read where the radiator cap is only 5#. Sorry for such a long post. Comments??
 

Thanks much for the come back. I never heard of that rod, but I haven't welded cast for quite a few years. If your welding at 60 amps and can handle the cast afterword's, that is a big plus. I think you got this thing. Maybe have a machine shop line bore it after you're done.
 
(quoted from post at 08:36:00 06/04/21)
Thanks much for the come back. I never heard of that rod, but I haven't welded cast for quite a few years. If your welding at 60 amps and can handle the cast afterword's, that is a big plus. I think you got this thing. Maybe have a machine shop line bore it after you're done.

Hey Tom,,I guess I ain't got enough sense to figure out how to use email on this site,,,,lol. Please tell me more,,,,, :oops:

Hey J Wondergem,,I trried to look into this rod on the net but either the company went belly up or California banned it for some reason,,?? THe welder person did not tell me to bring the remaining rods back,,,so I am gonna hang onto what's left for some other project :D
I am AMAZED that this rod is not the absolute hottest thing going because of its adaptability. When I figure out the posting of pics here, I will post pics of the before and after plus my "Shade tree" TOOLS I had to make to get ir done,,,,
Before I start the re-assembly, I'm wanting to "test" my work under some controlled low pressure,,any suggestions?
 

Hey J.Wondergem, What I did do is set the crank and cam in the block and torqued the mains down to plastigage the oil film clearances and they were perfect at .0015. Then removed the crank, cleaned the plastigage and Lubriplated all main bearings, torqued em down and,,,,,the crank and camshaft turn pretty as you please,,!! With those very low working temps,,I doubt I changed anything in that block,,,(fingers crossed)
 
(quoted from post at 09:37:40 06/04/21)
Hey J.Wondergem, What I did do is set the crank and cam in the block and torqued the mains down to plastigage the oil film clearances and they were perfect at .0015. Then removed the crank, cleaned the plastigage and Lubriplated all main bearings, torqued em down and,,,,,the crank and camshaft turn pretty as you please,,!! With those very low working temps,,I doubt I changed anything in that block,,,(fingers crossed)
 

Well, chit,,,ya'll gonna have to sus-plain to me what I'm doing wrong on double posting,,,?

Anyway,,I just got off the phone with one of the Parts Specialists on here and he tells me the Part number for the fiber thrust washer doesn't show up in their book,,,,WHAT?? I tried to explain that altho it was a Z120 block and crankshaft,,it was using the TO30 style of bearings without the flange, so it required the Fiber Thrust Washer. He kept saying that number does not show up in their books,,,,????
What to do now???
 

Calling the TO30 experts including Duner Wi or Tom H,,,,I didn't get anywhere with the friendly parts person on YT,,,,, He says the part number Z129C-202 for the crank to main bearing THRUST WASHER in not in their book,,! Even threw it out there on the web and got no takers,,??
Anybody??
 

Hey Tom H,,great to hear from you. I have to fess up,,,I went and unloaded all the parts and pieces in the Ferguson box,,,and,,,,and,,,I find two new brass pieces that sure do look like Thrust bearings,,,! They are in a plastic bag but with NO Part Numbers,,?? Have NO Clue why I did not see em before,,,LOL,,!! ( Mountain Out Of A Molehill) is what I done,,,,, Guess it time to clean my glasses,,,, :oops: THANKS for the info.
 

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